Modern Automatics, Low RPM, and Engine Longevity

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Aug 28, 2024
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With more and more automatic transmissions, especially 8 and 10 speeds, on the market nowadays, I have noticed many of them tend to be agressive with upshifting and keeping revs low. One good example is my 23 F150 Tremor 3.5 ecoboost. It has the 10R80 transmission with 3.73 rear end. With 33" tires, under coasting conditions, it'll be in 10th gear as low as 45mph. Or 6th gear at 20 mph. Almost at 1000 rpm! The engine does not struggle, and if i lightly accelerate itll happily hold the high gear and get up to speed. Sometime's it will add boost, even under low revs. And if I stab the throttle a bit more, it will eventually downshift. It's not knocking and I only feel very slight vibrations, however my traditional "sense" tells me this can't be good for the engine, trans, or driveline! It feels and sounds a lot happier gently accelerating and cruising at 2k rpm than 1200 rpm!

From my understanding, many automatics these days have this sort of shift strategy for emissions and fuel economy reasons. Along with more agressive torque converter lockup. However, I want to discuss some of the negative effects this can have long-term. To be clear, I am not discussing traditional "lugging" in the sense of high load at low rpm, but generally low rpms throughout low load and moderate load conditions. And I've implied this but i want to focus on gasoline engines specifically.

The question I want to discuss is.. given the fact modern cars are running at lower revs, and traditional wisdom tells us more rpm = more wear, but are the lower rpms really helping reduce LONG TERM wear? Or are they better off, under light driving conditions, running at slightly higher RPMs, say in the example of my F150, 2.5k rpm vs 1.2k rpm? Want to discuss some points that I feel why lower rpms may mean MORE wear and tear, and I'm curious to hear what others have to say about this topic.

Boundary lubrication condition
We know from the Stribeck curve, lower speeds mean boundary lubrication conditions are more prevalent. Meaning you are relying on the properties of the oil coating itself to protect metal surfaces, rather than an oil film being formed between two surfaces. There is MORE friction and wear under boundary conditions, especially under load (note the higher torque output at lower RPM required to maintain the same HP output), and you are relying on additives such as ZDDP to protect your engine. Even if we assume additives can signifciantly reduce wear under boundary conditions, from my understanding additives such as ZDDP are heat activated, so this may mean even more wear after a cold start! Which is worrisome when you consider the majority of engine wear happens before operating temperatures are achieved.

Higher torque outputs
Given the same power demand/HP, running at lower revs obviously means more torque per rev.. meaning you are having higher cylinder pressures and putting more strain on bottom end components. But at higher revs, you get marginally higher wear on valvetrain components. However, at moderate RPM ranges such as 2-3k rpm I'm sure this effect is more linear rather than exponential. To me, it seems like this is a good tradeoff, to prevent unnecessary strain on cylinder walls, piston skirts and rings, crankshaft, bearings, rods, etc. Plus, I'd rather have to do a timing job than have to rebuild or swap an engine. And I know im not “lugging” the engine in the traditional sense of High Load/Low RPM, but you're still asking for a high torque per rev output with potentially less oil film support. I'm sure that's not nothing over 150k, 200k, or 300k+ miles etc.

LSPI
While modern engines are generally good at careful timing maps, precise fuel injection, or downshifting to better operating conditions, to avoid LSPI generally, but at the end of the day, these rely on knock sensors. As such, there has to be minimal knock even on a well tuned engine, at these low rpm conditions. The driver may not notice, but its there, and I'm sure over long term this cannot be good.

Carbon buildup
There is incomplete combustion at lower RPMs, and with more and more engines going to direct injection, with no fuel washing the top of intake valves, this is a valid concern. I'm glad my truck has port fuel injection along with direct injection- DI is used in conjunction with PI, mostly under higher loads, and PI is used alone under low loads.

So, what does everyone think about this? I tend to drive my truck in sport mode because of these concerns. It's a little more jumpy on the throttle, but it holds the revs just a little higher in what I believe to be the "sweet spot"- under low load normal driving conditions - 1800 - 2500 rpm. Unlike the 1200-1500 rpm normal mode prefers under low load. The engine feels more responsive, and overall sounds and feels a lot happier. However, I do wonder if this is putting unncessary wear, contrary to my beliefs. After all, everything turns twice as much at 2500 rpm vs 1250 rpm. I'm happy to hear what everyone thinks about this.
 
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I'd say that engines properly designed to handle forced induction tend to last due to the robust nature of the parts. Well maintained Ecoboost engines will go a very long time without repairs. Even when used as tow vehicles and worked hard. 5000 mile OCI's and adequate viscosity are known factors.

There are 3.5L tow vehicles with 300K miles and no engine wear problems.
 
I'd say that engines properly designed to handle forced induction tend to last due to the robust nature of the parts. Well maintained Ecoboost engines will go a very long time without repairs. Even when used as tow vehicles and worked hard. 5000 mile OCI's and adequate viscosity are known factors.

There are 3.5L tow vehicles with 300K miles and no engine wear problems.
Absolutely agree. Similar to the reason why diesels last long. However you are still dealing with more complex parts, that being said I'm okay with replacing turbos or valvetrain components at higher mileage, as long as the internals and bottom end are good!
 
I have wondered about this specifically with timing chains. I recall an engineering study Chrysler did while designing the 3.3 and 3.8 and oil weights. The chain didnt become hydrodynamic until something around 1500 rpm or so with the oil they spec’ed. Below 1500 and it’s relying on anti-wear additives, above 1500 and it’s floating on the film.

The 2.7 ecoboost engine was one of the best things about the F150 I had, but whether related or not I don’t know, but I was starting to hear chain noise, and had the beginnings of metal flakes in my oil filter at 80k miles.

My new Tacoma runs at lower rpms than the ford v6 did. And, interestingly enough, I’ve read that Toyotas current oem oil is highly fortified with AW additives.
 
I have wondered about this specifically with timing chains. I recall an engineering study Chrysler did while designing the 3.3 and 3.8 and oil weights. The chain didnt become hydrodynamic until something around 1500 rpm or so with the oil they spec’ed. Below 1500 and it’s relying on anti-wear additives, above 1500 and it’s floating on the film.

The 2.7 ecoboost engine was one of the best things about the F150 I had, but whether related or not I don’t know, but I was starting to hear chain noise, and had the beginnings of metal flakes in my oil filter at 80k miles.

My new Tacoma runs at lower rpms than the ford v6 did. And, interestingly enough, I’ve read that Toyotas current oem oil is highly fortified with AW additives.
Honestly, this is my first time hearing about the timing chain being an issue on the 2.7eb! I do know the earlier, first gen 3.5 had issues with timing chain stretch. And obviously the cam phasers on the second gen 3.5eb and the 5.4 triton. Although these were more so due to design defects more than anything.

Interesting to hear that your Tacoma revs lower. Is it a 4.0 V6? In my experience with driving a 19 4runner with that same engine, it tends to rev higher under load but it keeps the torque converter unlocked until later, meaning lower revs when cruising around town. It's a very comfortable shifting experience in my opinion, but some people dislike it.
 
Honestly, this is my first time hearing about the timing chain being an issue on the 2.7eb! I do know the earlier, first gen 3.5 had issues with timing chain stretch. And obviously the cam phasers on the second gen 3.5eb and the 5.4 triton. Although these were more so due to design defects more than anything.

Interesting to hear that your Tacoma revs lower. Is it a 4.0 V6? In my experience with driving a 19 4runner with that same engine, it tends to rev higher under load but it keeps the torque converter unlocked until later, meaning lower revs when cruising around town. It's a very comfortable shifting experience in my opinion, but some people dislike it.
No, not the v6 … it’s the little turbo 4. It’s too new to have much experience with it, but it delivers a lot of torque down low and climbs hills with boost in play at 1300 rpm, growling away. It would not suffice in a luxury vehicle. In a truck it’s just got its sleeves rolled up.
 
My GM 10 speed runs the engine around 1600 on the highway - the transmission seldom gets over 150° - that can’t be all bad.
1600 isn't too bad when cruising! In sport mode, my F150 will still do the same. However, I'm more so concerned with when driving around town, when the ECU will decide to simply lug around at 1000-1500 rpm under light to moderate accel. Or say at around 45 mph staying in 10th gear and simply adding boost when accellerating instead of downshifting, unlike of sport mode which is already in a lower gear and requires no boost. My intuion says this can't be good, long term. I will admit it does make for a very refined and smooth feel, however- almost diesel-like.
 
The question is, why are there engines lasts longer than the components of the car itself? Why are there engines lasts more than a million miles?
 
I have asked a similar question here about my Corvette and wondered if lower rpm’s were good or bad for my engine given that it is direct injection. I have the 8 speed automatic and a very tall 2.41 rear axle ratio which means that even at 75 mph the engine rpm is only at 1500 rpm.
 
Todays engines have much stronger bottom ends, with more support and wider bearing areas, which greatly reduces crankshaft flex and wobble. This was needed mainly to accommodate thinner oils, and as a side effect, these engines can be run a very low RPM.
And it’s not just the forced induction engines that operate this way. NA engines operate this was too.

My Grand Caravan routinely sits at 1100-1200 rpm and the same goes for my Toyota with the CVT.
 
There's plenty of high mileage panthers with 2.73 gears that run down the highway at 1400 RPM and around the city at 1000 RPM. The ridiculously tall gearing in those cars. Not great for power but the engines seemed happy.


Todays engines have much stronger bottom ends, with more support and wider bearing areas, which greatly reduces crankshaft flex and wobble. This was needed mainly to accommodate thinner oils, and as a side effect, these engines can be run a very low RPM.
And it’s not just the forced induction engines that operate this way. NA engines operate this was too.

My Grand Caravan routinely sits at 1100-1200 rpm and the same goes for my Toyota with the CVT.
I always wondered if our Sentra was designed to have the engine lugging around all the time. It gets ridiculous gas mileage and if I'm putting around town, it'll happily sit at 1000 RPM with the torque converter locked. They must have some pretty fancy engine mounts!
 
The MG cruises in any gear between 1200 and 1500 rpm, but will downshift very easily and before boosting. In sports mode the rpm stays around 2.5k while cruising.

Running 10W-30 no VII in it, so I would hope the chain is hydrodynamic most of the time, if not at idle.
 
The 8spd in the Colorado does the same. At 80mph I'm just shy of 2k rpms. I use "L" mode now all the time. I lock out gears 5-8 unless on highway. I also keep it in L 7 on highway which puts the rpms around 2,300 which is a sweet spot for this truck. Around town I limit the shifting by keeping it in L 4. Makes a big difference to me. Less hunting.

Last summer I put a quick 5k miles on the engine driving out to South Dakota. A lot of high speed and high rpm driving. UOA came back great with only 8ppm of Fe after 5k miles. I'm of the belief that higher rpms, within reason, are better for the drivetrain than lugging around with low rpms.
 
Great post! I've had similar feelings since I owned a '16 Ram w/ the Hemi and ZF 8 spd. First trans I had with over 6 speeds and was so surprised at how low it kept RPM's. I've noticed on my Titan, it lugs around 11-1200 rpm just cruising around town.

I like the idea of throwing it in sport/tow haul mode sometimes so it holds gears longer. Recently @buster posted a thread about Carbon that inspired me to occasionally manually shift the truck to around 3k RPM and just keep it there for awhile. Does it help? Not sure, at the very least a little more fun to drive :) In that truck; I will likely also use somewhat frequent fuel cleaners and possibly use CRC valve cleaner every so often to help mitigate deposits, especially since it is DI w/ no port injection.

Will likely also use only top tier fuel and maybe even VRP, all efforts to help with valve deposits 🤞
 
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Also consider that 3-4k rpms is not that high, even sustained. Engines are durability tested under much more stressful conditions.

Lugging, low rpm type driving is worse on the drivetrain than sustained 3-4k rpms IMO.
 
Great post! I've had similar feelings since I owned a '16 Ram w/ the Hemi and ZF 8 spd. First trans I had with over 6 speeds and was so surprised at how low it kept RPM's. I've noticed on my Titan, it lugs around 11-1200 rpm just cruising around town.

I like the idea of throwing it in sport/tow haul mode sometimes so it holds gears longer. Recently @buster posted a thread about Carbon that inspired me to occasionally manually shift the truck to around 3k RPM and just keep it there for awhile. Does it help? Not sure, at the very least a little more fun to drive :) In that truck; I will likely also use somewhat frequent fuel cleaners and possibly use CRC valve cleaner every so often to help mitigate deposits, especially since it is DI w/ no port injection.
You know what's interesting, for the Ford Broncos with the stick shift, the owners manual actually recommends upshifting at 3k rpm
 
Also consider that 3-4k rpms is not that high, even sustained. Engines are durability tested under much more stressful conditions.

Lugging, low rpm type driving is worse on the drivetrain than sustained 3-4k rpms IMO.
I also recall reading a paper somewhere, that stated engine wear increased with torque/BMEP rather than engine speed. It was a paper from 2006 if I recall correctly.
 
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