Thin is Better: The Gospel According to A.E. Haas

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sometimes we get caught up in the details. The actual numbers are not important in this example. One thing I was trying to show is that an engine may be asked to move an oil with a very low viscosity. That viscosity encountered may be as thin a kerosene is at room temperature. Your car engine can and does handle and pump oil when it is this thin. We should not panic on those occasions. The engine will not self destruct. The oil on the other hand will need to be replaced sooner as it cannot take that type of use for too long An ester based oil should be able to handle this temperature better.

aehaas
 
Quote:


Shannow, perhaps your application is a little different than what is typical. Does Nissan really say that you can't run any oil that supercedes CF-4? According to the API, CI-4, CH-4, and CG-4 can all be used in place of CF-4. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just curious.




http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post527579
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post527718
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post528849
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post532445

Currently running Castrol Magnatec SP 5w-40.

Vehicle's out of warranty, so when stocks are used up, prolly end up on Delvac 1 anyway (unless Mobil messes with it)
 
Just wondering what people think of the following claim:

"SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil

Should you use it in your vehicle?

The answer is simple:

You get about 1% better fuel economy, but you get 30% shorter engine life!"

http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm

Personally I'm skeptical of the idea that 5W-20 reduces longevity, but I'm no expert. What does everyone else think?
 
Quote:



http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post527579
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post527718
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post528849
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post532445

Currently running Castrol Magnatec SP 5w-40.

Vehicle's out of warranty, so when stocks are used up, prolly end up on Delvac 1 anyway (unless Mobil messes with it)




Wow, thanks for the links. That first link was an especially interesting read.
 
JA, by cold weather package I mean equipment for cold weather, including but not limited to aux heaters. On a lot of equipment I have worked on the cold weather package includes things like battery heaters, fuel heaters, oil heaters, larger batteries and possibly a 24v starting system where the comparable model would have a 12v starter. Also cold weather starting aids like a KBI ether injection system are common cold weather package items. I completely agree with you in that a lighter weight oil would certainly be much easier to pull off. A 10w30 HDEO would be fine in those tractors, although I'd keep and eye on the little Ford and see what it does in the summer with no cooler (probably just fine).

Dr Haas, I understand that the numbers you gave were for demonstration only, but they did get the point across. One thing that I'd like to comment on is the fact that you reference cars quite frequently, and the type of engines in trucks and equipment that I've mostly been referring to (as I think JA's question was directed mainly at HD stuff) is quite a bit different than a car or even an Expedition. Most diesel engines, MD on up, run engine coolant to engine oil coolers and never get more than about 200*F sump temps. The highest temps I've seen were in a Cummins BCIV 440. I was in 99-103*F ambient temps and pulling a combined weight of about 175,000 lbs up a 11% grade for near 20 minuets. For reference, most highway trucks are only 80,000 lbs combined, local (such as dumps) maybe 105,000 assuming no special permits. Also, mandated by the Feds, no highway has a grade greater than 7%. After 20 minuets of slow speed (about 11MPH was it), no ram air to speak of, and full throttle at governed full load speed I only saw 255*F in the sump. Most of the other equipment I've been involved in would run less temp in this condition, but this truck was fairly underpowered for what I was doing with it. Now, most of the engine manufactures that I'm dealing with here recommend 15w40, and only in cold weather due some of these manufactures allow 10w30.

One of the differences I think are fairly important in dealing with oil weight is the engine design. Diesel engines are typically designed with very regulated operating parameters compared to a gas engine. You can over-rev a diesel under load unless someone has mis-adjusted a mechanically governed engine. Bearing clearances are typically larger, as are cam bearing clearances and most modern gas engines have hydraulic zero lash overheads, something most diesel do not have.

I would think that in a close clearance engine, such as an Expedition or a more exotic high performance car, a 20wt oil has plenty of film thickness to support items such items as the main and cam bearings. In most diesel engines I would think the same film thickness would not be sufficient since the clearances are larger to begin with, the downward power stroke would cause the rod and crank to “get a run” at the bearing until the oil film thickness started to really support the load. I mentioned this in a previous post, but I'll do so again because I really haven't made my mind up yet, I'll have to play some more. I would think that as RPM increases, the time of power impulses decreases. Another way to think about this is, the time it takes for the power stroke and for the piston to change direction is shorter. Load may actually be less due to changes in cylinder pressures associated with RPM and load changes. This condition would reduce the amount of oil squeezed from the journals. Think of it this way. If you have a water logged dirt patch and you walk slowly across it, you sink further and more water is displaced around you boot. If you run across the same area, less water is displaced if the speed is great enough. Not sure that was the best example, but it's been a long day.

I certainly agree that thinner oils can be used with great success. I think that thinner is always better is most certainly not true. If UOA's are used then I'll try almost anything (esp. when the boss is on vacation). There are various types of equipment I've tried switching from 15w40 to 5 or 10w30 and didn't have much luck, again the track record of 5/15w40 oils is pretty good, although that is certainly open for challenge. I've run some pretty thin oils in the race cars with good results, so I know that thin oils due have the ability to work well. I suppose I'm taking this all too seriously in that Jim Allen only want to go down to around a 10w30 and no run a 0w10 in his diesel pickup. Ok, I guess I'll go back to my corner now
grin.gif
 
In regards to all of the above, what about synthetic 15W40's? Has anyone found these to be significantly better performing in colder weather than dino? Would going to a synthetic 15W40 assure good cold weather performance without going to a 0 or 5?
 
This is EXACTLY the sort of discussion I was hoping for, gents. Thanks to all who have contributed and will contribute further.

1040WM- Ok, you'v established a good track record there with 15W-40 oils and verified it with UOA that compared the thicker oils to thinner ones. My question is what are the ambient temperature parameters in your area. I want to know just for comparison purposes. I suspect you are a lot warmer there than it is here. It's rare here to go over 90 and we have 3 months of 30 degrees and below, with usually a month or so of that in the 'teens or below.

You make some good points 1040WM, but ultimately, wht Dr. Haas says would still seem to hold true. I want to make a survey of bearing clearances betweeen engines that specify a 30wt versus a 40 weight, but I think it will all come down to temps again. If diesels mostly run at 200 degrees, then they would maintain a higher vis at any grade than a gasser that ran the oil up higher. It theory, with oil temps well controlled, that would mean you could run a somewhat lighter grade (perhaps measured in cSt rather than SAE grade... e.g. a "thin" 40) and have the best of both worlds.

I ask again: Is there a chart, graph or formula that shows oil viscosity above and below the standard ratings, so that if you have your operating oil temps, you could choose a vis based on that and plot it at other temps as well?

I'd like to make the point again that the water-to-oil coolers commonly found on diesels will WARM the oil as well as cool it. Since the cooling system heat up fast and transfers some of it's heat to the cold oil, we get the oil warm and thin faster than the average gasser.
 
Nobody has brought up abrasive soot present in diesels yet. Gas engines don't contend with that. That makes really thin and zero film thicknesses allow a lot more wear to occur compared to if there were no soot.

If you want to really learn about this stuff, find some good engineering books on the subject. It's all there.
 
I would personally try a syn 15W40 such as Roysl Purple-I'm running it in my old Mercedes diesel right now, it has a pour point of -44*F., it might be a little thicker than Delvac 1 5W40, but in my experience cold crank speeds are comparable. I'd personally love to try the Esso XD 0W40, but it's only available in Canada AFAIK. I can tell you from appearance only CF oils can't handle anywhere near the amount of soot that a CI-4 can (the on time I ran CF 20W50 Havoline it looked like chunks coming out of the drain plug hole after 3K miles).
 
I would like to clarify that I do not advocate putting 20 wt. oil in all cars. What I do recommend is that you test your oils with all parameters then use the thinnest oil that gets the job done. But regardless of the operating grade (20 or 30 or 40) you still should use the lowest start up grade as 0W- or 5W-. Use a 5W-40 instead of a 15W-40 as long as the oil is shear stable, and I know that this is more important in diesel engines for several reasons.

aehaas
 
JA, the average temps around my house range commonly around 35-45*F winter to around 68-90*F summer. We have equipment spread out all over the west coast and Canada, some of the equipment I was working on recently was in Northern Alaska, warm was 0*F (time for the shorts and swimming gear).

Yes, you are completely correct in that the oil coolers will warm the oil if the oil temp is less than that of the coolant. That is why most well designed engines will run a fairly consistent 175-200*F oil temps. Certainly at a lower temp the viscosity would be higher allowing you to run a lower weight oil, but most oils have a viscosity measurement at 100*C which is about 212*F. If your engine runs 200*F +/- 25* then you are very close to stated viscosity.

I may have been rasping a bit at the RPM/Load bearing squeeze deal, but something has to explain the reason why many diesels do poorly on thinner oils. Even 10w30, in cold to moderate climates, have returned some very bad UOA's in some of our equipment. One reason that I think this argument has some merit is from purely anecdotal evidence, however it's helping to show the effect of viscosity changes. I have several engines that respond drastically (well, IMO drastically) to changes in viscosity. My SOHC 4.0 gas engine returns better UOA's the thicker the oil I run in it. The poorest UOA was with a very light 30wt PAO oil. So far the best UOA (concurrent fills for accuracy) is GC which is nearly a 40wt. At work I tries Delo 10w30 in a VT365, DT466E and V903. Every one of them returned very poor UOA's. These were all engines that were in good shape and previously had spotless UOA's. The V903 (the lest likely to do so IMO) had the best UOA of the bunch. The 903 could have actually stayed in service with the 30wt, however in comparison to previous UOA's with a thicker oil I went back to 5w40. The 903 saw cold weather service. It powers a genset that powers the HVAC system in one of the shops up North and is mostly operated when ambient temps are below 20*F.

Like I've said before, go as thin as the UOA's indicate is prudent. I would agree that using the thinest oil that give comparable service to thicker oils is the way to go. IMO, due to design characteristics, diesel engines will typical need a higher oil viscosity. In the very near future I can see that changing as diesel continue to grow in popularity and are more closely regulated by the government in the US. It's Certainly interesting stuff to think about, and play with as much as the company is willing to let me get away with at any rate. I don't like using my equipment at test beds, I can't afford to have the stuff not working.
 
JAG- Very good point on the soot!

1040WM- Very interesting info. Our climates are not so far apart then.

Lots to cogitate here.
 
Quote:


... My question is what are the ambient temperature parameters in your area. I want to know just for comparison purposes. I suspect you are a lot warmer there than it is here. It's rare here to go over 90 and we have 3 months of 30 degrees and below, with usually a month or so of that in the 'teens or below...




Although not directed at me I will reply. I live in nothern Idaho, temps range from 100º in summer to -30º winter. I used to run Delo 400 15-40 in my diesel tractor with similar results to yours. Switched to Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic (thanks to Bitog) and found a significant improvement in cold cranking. This oil would serve your needs perfectly year round IMHO.
Joe
 
Quote:


In regards to all of the above, what about synthetic 15W40's? Has anyone found these to be significantly better performing in colder weather than dino? Would going to a synthetic 15W40 assure good cold weather performance without going to a 0 or 5?




Did everyone miss my question?
canada.gif
 
Sorry there, D-Roc! You'd have to look at the specs. I'd guess they would be better than a mineral 15W-40 but not as good as a syn 10W-30 or a 5W-40. Syns at any grade perform better in cold than the equivalent grade mineral oil, as you probably know. Look up and compare PP and CCS specs of whatever oils you are comparing. CCS is harder to find, especially in the mineral oils.
 
Quote:


Quote:


In regards to all of the above, what about synthetic 15W40's? Has anyone found these to be significantly better performing in colder weather than dino? Would going to a synthetic 15W40 assure good cold weather performance without going to a 0 or 5?


Actually, your post was the one I was addressing-I think it depends on how cold it gets where you are and what engine you run (for instance my Dodge Ram Cummins starts nearly instantly even below zero F. with regular dino 15W40, but my IDI Mercedes just won't crank fast enough without syn).
deadhorse.gif


Did everyone miss my question?
canada.gif



 
Is this sump temperature taken where oil is returning from the upper part of the engine or is it taken away from the returning flow? Oil in the sump will tend to build up boundary layers and have distinct oil temperature zones that are a little slow to mix with oil of a different temperature. In some large V8 engines this can result in an area inside the pan with a temperature that is not a good representation of the overall average oil temp, if there is such a thing. If you are taking the temperature in a hot zone you might get a different temperature than one taken in a more turbulent part of the oil pan. If 300F+ is the average temperature of the oil, whatever that is, then there is a technical term for that condition, yiiiiikes!
 
Most diesel engines take the sump temperature either in the pan, hence the name sump temperature or they may take the temp from the oil returning to pan from the oil cooler (there are always a few exceptions). In either case, the oil temperature everywhere but the turbo cartridge is fairly consistent and generally cooler than in a big gas V8, or almost any gas engine.
 
With no good measure of oil flow one shouldn't ignore oil pressure. As engine temps climb, maybe with the air on, climbing a steep grade with a load at alititude, with ambient temps of 100F, a drop in oil pressure as it thins because more of it is 'escaping' along it's channels, is not something to ignore. Most cars and trucks seem to use plain bearing cranks, which depend upon oil pressure more than roller cranks. Some types of valve trains rely upon heavier viscosity to minuimize wear.

I think that more low shear viscosity range makes sense, where a 5w40 has shown to do betetr than 15w40 in diesels in cold weather, and I suspect would also do better with lots of cold starts in 'normal' weather. For gas engines I think that you need to look at engine design and use, where it appears that the US is largely a country of milk toast drivers.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom