The tale of the Dan Wesson Razorback

I've divested myself of Dan Wessons. Yet strangely they are still interesting and the thought of picking one up crosses my mind from time to time, but then I remember how I haven't had one that worked out of the box yet, even if conforming to the "wisdom" of the DW faithful (well except for the guy who thinks you should slurry a new 1911, him I ignore.

They replaced my first razorback.

They said they fixed my second razorback, but after 2 trips back is still did not work and I fixed it myself, after they took the coating off with a fluff and buff and generally treated it poorly even adding an idiot scratch.

I also fixed my Pre CZ Pointman...

And yes the faithful will accuse you of lying or blame it on you if you post you story...
 
Yeah, looks like a metallurgy issue ... stainless on stainless is famous for galling. Maybe they have an updated slide material that is more compatible with the frame.
 
DuckRyder said:
I wouldn't let them work on it unless they will replace it, it'll come back looking bubba'ed IME.
Click to expand...

Yup.

Or simply fail shortly after again because that run of parts was " soft" or the heat treat guy was out that week.

I'd be on the lookout for work performed vs. replaced parts.

Bummer here is I've yet to see a piece that "went back" ever be right.



I left out the Walther PPK - good thing Bond can fight because that guns not going to take him far in the real world.

This thread saddens me.
 
This thread saddens me, too!

DW customer service is sending shipping information. I will keep everyone posted.

I’ve got several thousand rounds through my 1911s, a Springfield 1911in .45 ACP, a Springfield Range Officer stainless target in .45 ACP, a Springfield Range Officer elite operator in 10mm, and a Colt Competition in .38 Super.

I know how they should run. I haven’t had a single reliability issue* with the Colt, for example, and the Range Officer, an all stainless gun, has been flawless in every respect from day one.

I am pretty particular about maintenance and oiling, even on Glocks, but particularly on all stainless guns. I know this isn’t an oil/maintenance issue.

I do love the 10mm as a cartridge, and I hope that DW can resolve the galling issue (which could be fit, and could be soft steel) on this one. The trigger is very nice, and the two rounds I got out of it were bullseyes at 10 yards. If it would run right, it would be a sweet gun.


*I think I mentioned that the safety wasn’t quite right. It was mushy and hard to engage. I bought that gun new. A tiny bit of stoning to fit the safety properly and it’s been perfect ever since.
 
Check your barrel bushing and barrel link. If they fit the bushing too tight for the sake of accuracy, under recoil it wont allow the barrel to tilt as the link goes down and it unlocks. The slide gets forced back but the barrel cant tilt and it forces the slide up and locks the rails. And make sure as the slide goes forward and the barrel moves into battery that the top lugs are dropping into the slide grooves and not dragging the lugs. You will sometimes see the wear/drag marks on the barrel hood or lugs. If its marginal then shooting will eventually wear the lugs but if the pivot is too long it will force the barrel and slide up too tight. It usually shows as a difficult to open slide as the pivot goes over center.
And dont use oil, get some gun grease and a small artist paintbrush. Paint the barrel and lugs and slide grooves and lug cuts, And the link and pin.
 
samven said:
Check your barrel bushing and barrel link. If they fit the bushing too tight for the sake of accuracy, under recoil it wont allow the barrel to tilt as the link goes down and it unlocks. The slide gets forced back but the barrel cant tilt and it forces the slide up and locks the rails. And make sure as the slide goes forward and the barrel moves into battery that the top lugs are dropping into the slide grooves and not dragging the lugs. You will sometimes see the wear/drag marks on the barrel hood or lugs. If its marginal then shooting will eventually wear the lugs but if the pivot is too long it will force the barrel and slide up too tight. It usually shows as a difficult to open slide as the pivot goes over center.
And dont use oil, get some gun grease and a small artist paintbrush. Paint the barrel and lugs and slide grooves and lug cuts, And the link and pin.
Click to expand...
Thank you for that. I will take a look this morning.

I got the shipping label from DW to send it back, and I will, right after a take a look at the bushing and link.
 
Barrel link and bushing are OK. Barrel unlocks with ease. Slide moves the first half inch just fine. Nice and smooth.

Then it jams.

The slide jams with the barrel removed. Same spot, about 3/4” of travel rearward. Where the galling on the rail meets the galling in the slide.

On my way to FedEx to send it back to DW.
 
Once you've had a good one you know what you should expect - and whats nonsense.

I pondered before "liking" you post because Im bummed for you about the problem and hoping DW takes care of you..

BUT - Im appreciative of your sharing and thank you for it sir.

UD
 
UncleDave said:
.....Im bummed for you about the problem and hoping DW takes care of you..

BUT - Im appreciative of your sharing and thank you for it sir.

UD
Click to expand...

I hope I'm wrong.

My prediction is that it comes back looking like someone took a file of unmarried parents to it and generally worse for wear.

Again, I fervently hope I'm wrong.
 
What a bummer. I vaguely recall another thread voicing displeasure over DW on here many years back.

Hopefully this turns out OK.

I wonder if an anti seize would be a good option, one that specifically is designed to help reduce galling of stainless?
 
JHZR2 said:
What a bummer. I vaguely recall another thread voicing displeasure over DW on here many years back.

Hopefully this turns out OK.

I wonder if an anti seize would be a good option, one that specifically is designed to help reduce galling of stainless?
Click to expand...

I understand DW has started putting some more specific break in instructions (with respect to lubricant as well) on an addendum packed with newer ones. They also started including a bottle of lube which is probably FP10 or Weaponshield (accounts vary).

All the arguments that you should not have to "break in" a new pistol and that you shouldn't have to use a very specific lubricant not withstanding, following the instructions does seem to help.

Keith, who used to contribute regularly to 1911Forum talked about this a lot, he specifically advised against any sort of grease (which I always thought was odd, since if you take a new one apart I found white lithium 2 out of 3 times.)

Apparently Keith has stopped contributing and no longer answers e-mail. I don't know if he has left DW or not.

Obviously that ship has sailed on this one at this point.

Were it me I would not go too far off reservation when it came back, Id follow any instructions they sent to a T, in absence of any instructions I would use a medium oil like FP10 or Weaponshield (actually i'd use Weaponshield cause thats what I have and NOT Hoppes or Remoil) and Id run it absolutely drenched in it, like slinging it all over the place for the first few hundred rounds. Because that is what seems to work for most people... at least if nothing has changed recently.

Also for anyone who stumbles across this in the future, if your DW is Duty Treat be real careful what you use on as some (a lot of things actually) things discolor it.

Anyway, in for the return report.

:two cents:
 
DW received the Razorback on Monday. So, I expect 3-4 weeks from Monday, I'll hear something. I'm not in a rush. I'm good on 10mm ammo, and have a G20, A S&W 1006, and a SA RO Elite Operator (I think, their models confuse me) chambered in 10mm to keep me busy.

Shopping parts for a 6.5 Creedmoor, but that's another thread...
 
So, DW received the pistol just over a week ago. Today, I got this email:

"Great News Xxxxx

Your repair has been completed and will ship shortly.

Item: XXXX

Serial Number: XXXXXXX

Description: DW RZ-10, 10MM, SS, 8RD

Work Performed: Adjusted slide to frame fit test fired good with 30 Rounds of 180gr FMJ."


So, I am pleased with the speed of their warranty work and look forward to seeing what they did. As well as look forward to shooting it...

Cheers,
Astro
 
Per that thread I showed in post #32, the guy sent his in with the same issue, it came back and worked for a short time, He then sent it back in a 2nd time and DW sent him a whole new pistol.
 
Knocking on wood.

Still thinking an anti seize optimized for preventing falling of stainless (Ni or marine type?) would be prudent.
 
I’ve got nickel antiseize, for use on exhaust parts, or stainless and titanium bolts. I suppose I could try it.

Wilson Combat, a company I respect, and whose firearms I admire, recommends oil (their oil, of course) on frame rails of 1911s. Several videos on that.

Dan Wesson had a little tube of gun oil included with the gun in its original box. I’ll have to go look and see what brand they included but reckon they wanted gun oil used.

I’ve tried grease on stainless frame rails (I’ve got several S&W 3rd generation autos that are all stainless construction) and had no problems, but I swear the guns felt different using grease than when using oil.
 
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