Honda uses the "A/B" filter oil change schedule (filter could be ran for two OCIs), so they are probably less efficiency for this reason so they don't clog over a possible 15K use run.
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The Honda Oil Filter Thread
- Thread starter Hohn
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I wouldn't want to sacrifice a new one but it would be nice to get a C&P when you are done using it. At least it can be compared to the previous versions and other models like the PG's.
1st transmission blew at 70k, right after warranty. 2nd transmission ( Honda re-man) is holding up perfectly. Not racing it whatsoever. I baby it with those miles. Guess I'm caught up in the " myth". When I run out of OEM, I have a bunch of Mahle filters I'll start using. Been sitting on the shelf for over 2 years. Time to use them anyway. This car/truck just got put out to pasture anyway. I'm retired. Making my wife use a different beater with less miles to go back and forth to work ( 30 mi round trip ). That beater has 128k on it. I'll use the CRV to shuffle our 13 yr old daughter around town, and for me to go see doctor's and what not. The original CATS lasted 613, 560k !!! And they were CARB compliant cats. Now it has new ones in there. I'll keep the tired, old K24 going 
....One of the last best made Honda engines,,,,,,,then the bean counters came thru the doors and messed everything up. Eventually, we'll get newer vehicles. Money is tight right now.
....One of the last best made Honda engines,,,,,,,then the bean counters came thru the doors and messed everything up. Eventually, we'll get newer vehicles. Money is tight right now.- Joined
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12 more years, and the 2012 CRV will be eligible for import directly from Japan in right hand drive to take over for my current CRV. I'm not buying or driving anything else for the rest of my life.
I don't blame you. My 13' CRV has been VERY good to me. Excellent vehicle. Right hand drive will take a bit to get use to. 2010-2014 CRV had the same engine. I've been searchin around for a used one on the internet. They are all over the place. Avg price of $ 1800-2400, depending on mileage. IF mine pushes up daisies one day,,, that's the route I'm taking. Re-man / rebuilt are too expensive ( $ 3600 ). I don't trust engine re-builders anyway. Who knows what they're throwing back inside that K-24
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I like the simplicity of the oil is the oil filter. I bet Honda dealers tell seniors they should change their oil and filter every 3000.
I wondered what that was for. Thank you for enlightening me. Never knew. Well I'm a senior who's been changing oil and filter at 3k since he was a junior. That's the way I was taught. OCI's are still cheap enough provided you do it yourself. Gives me an excuse to kill a few hours in the garage and not listen to the wife's mouth too. LOL
The phrase "high flow" is itself a misnomer. "Low restriction" is imo more correct. Filters don't "flow" as I understand it. Especially in the context of a lube system with a positive displacement vane or gerotor pump.
IN an oil system, flow is conserved. By this I mean that every unit of flow at pump outlet can be accounted for and does not just disappear. If I'm flowing 10L/min at the pump outlet, there exists some measurable, knowable distribution of that flow that will total up to 10L/min. Perhaps 3L/min is leaking through the main and rod bearings. Perhaps 4L/min is getting squirted at the pistons for cooling. Perhaps 3L/min is going to the overhead to lube the cams and valvetrain. Whatever that distribution is, it's a conserved value and all the "parasitic flows" will total up to the oil pump outlet flow. Always. Regardless of how the "budget" will allocate those parasitic flows, the total will always be the same and equal the pump outlet flow.
Because all of the flow that goes into the filter also comes out of the filter-- 100% of the time always-- I think it's entirely improper to think of filters as being "high flow" or "low flow". Filters do not have a flow value. Rather, the flow rate through a filter is just a reference point we use to travel along the restriction curve and determine the operating point at which we will assess restriction.
Depending on how we're defining "Sub-par", this isn't necessarily true. One the one hand, the fram-in-a-blue-dress is certainly unimpressive. On the other, Honda engines will last a long, long time using that same filter.
We've had a good sidebar here on some topics, but I'll ask that we try to keep this thread circled back to Honda-fitment filters specifically.
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I probably change oil and filter less than 3000, and always do it myself, and I am getting older. Got the 8 coming in one year. I meant maybe dealers are telling seniors 3000 when the book says more, to make more $$$. If a Honda dealer is asked, they would say we change the filter every time is my good guess.
Don't want to side track the thread, but I think the term "high flow" used by many in the context of oil filters stems from the misconception of "flow over efficiency" which is basically a myth. Even if the context of "high flow" was defined as "which filter flows the most at the same dP", they are all going to be flowing pretty close to each other unless there is a really big outlier in the mix, just like when comparing their dP vs flow performance. But as you pointed out, a filter being fed by a PD pump then becomes a flow resistance, and the difference between oil filters is small enough to not really matter except for maybe in some extreme racing situations where the engine is in really high RPM use, and the pump is not matched well to the engine's expected use. On a hair splitting level, there will be some flow difference, but it will be small enough to not really matter even when the pump is out of pressure relief at high RPM unless the oil pump is way mismatched to the engine (pretty unlikely).
As far as Honda OEM filters, it would be nice to see some dP vs flow numbers for them, and also between the two OEM versions (Japan and Fram USA). I'm betting the OEM version by Fram is made to match closer to the Japan OEM version than to the Fram EG.
Some filter makers do list just a flow value (ie: 9 GPM) with no qualifying associate information, so it's a pretty nebulous spec. I'd like to know what that spec is based on.
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What's the cheapest filter that can get me to 8-9k miles? I prefer a silicone ADBV but it's not a deal breaker since I do highway miles and accumulate those miles quick.
My go-to was supertech 7317 but that's gone.
I'm leaning towards FRAM tough guard, but the Purolator One also seems like a good option.
Will the Purolator Tech do the job?
My go-to was supertech 7317 but that's gone.
I'm leaning towards FRAM tough guard, but the Purolator One also seems like a good option.
Will the Purolator Tech do the job?
Currently using the last of my OEM A02 filters in my K-24 CRV. Then on to the good stash. 2 cases of Mahle that I caught on sale somewhere ( have no idea when or when). I think my K-24 will be happier than that garbage A02. Was using the Filtech A01 till the bean counters stepped in and squashed them. Can't get them in New York anymore. Didn't need a scale like the you tubers, just put one in each hand. What a difference that A01 was !!!!!!! Much heavier... Friggin bean counters 
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^You can get these sent anywhere, free shipping. They replaced the JDM A01 and are made in Japan by Mahle-Tennex.
And you can get them for a lot less than $20 especially if you buy more than one. The place where I usually get Honda parts sells them for under $7, and depending on how many I buy the shipping usually adds about $3 each to that (or less). $20 is a high price.
Is that where you want to cut a couple $$ with the sadly questionable quality on many lately.
Rock Auto - These are the Premium Guard extended life ones. You might get different brand names but are the same filter from PG brands.
Don't forget the discount codes in the sale thread for RA.
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Well - you used to be able to, anyway. I suppose I should pay attention to the price changes. Should have bought two last month!
Thanks guys for all the tips .......Now I know where to find them when my 2 cases of stockpiled MAHLE runs out. Can't believe they still make them, but not for US consumption. You gotta go diggin for them. This country is in the toilet !!!!!
.......Now I know where to find them when my 2 cases of stockpiled MAHLE runs out. Can't believe they still make them, but not for US consumption. You gotta go diggin for them. This country is in the toilet !!!!!
RA had some Carquest premiums on closeout for an absurdly low price a couple weeks back. I was an idiot and hesitated because I'm well stocked. But IIRC it was < $2 each!