not 60 percent, but an oxidation value of 60. even premium blue restore doesn't contain 60% ester
The effects of car oil on wet clutches and high rpm engines.
- Thread starter wingxzero
- Start date
not 60 percent, but an oxidation value of 60. even premium blue restore doesn't contain 60% ester
Bought my bike 2 years ago, a 2007 with 5k miles on it. Immediately put Amsoil MC 10-40 in and for the first 2k burned about 3/4qt. Now, at 14k miles with 4k oci’s it mourns no more that a cup of oil. I know, not scientific at all, however, that’s good evidence for me that some type of ring cleaning happened.
I do have HPL on the shelf waiting for next change which, as others have said here, will get you the results you want too. I have personal experience with it in my other vehicles.
I do have HPL on the shelf waiting for next change which, as others have said here, will get you the results you want too. I have personal experience with it in my other vehicles.
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Yeah, I'm not against trying it. Have you looked into yamalube ring free?
@The_Sheriff
I've had the bike since new when I bought it 2007. It's mainly used yamalube semi synthetic 10w40. It then was ran on Mobil1 synthetic And just recently I switched to valvoline full synthetic 4 stroke motorcycle oil.
Like I said, the oil change intervals have been somewhat inconsistent. But never more than around 5 or 6k miles. But recently it was sitting for about 3 or 4 years barely getting any use and I have been going through it getting ready for some riding, But not without noticing some things, like slight noises while cold and Performance issues, that were not present when it was put in storage. Some of them seem to have to do with a code 20, a vacuum line issue in the air box, from what I've read. Others are just age related.
As far as this oil goes based off of the information I can find, the only real known compatibility issues that could have effect is the wet clutch slippage, as the only real difference between the oem spec oil and the restore and protect is the molybdenum content. However based on my research, this might not be that big of a deal if you use a full synthetic clutch material like the Kevlar ebc clutch I'm running now. Some have said that it's in fact not noticeable. And as the other user mentioned, the issue shouldn't cause any permanent issue unless the slippage was really bad and you continued to rev it anyways to the point of glazing the clutch pack. However if you didn't notice any clutch slippage and made sure you had proper engagement, then once you swap the oil out it should be fine.
But ideally someone with personal experience would comment on this phenomenon.
Below ive attached some comparisons and specifications that you may or may not find interesting.
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Redline 20W50 (and other Redline MC oils) for years had 600 ppm of moly. I ran it for the first time on a 75,000 mile clutch on my ZRX 1200 and never a problem. Didn't expect one either.
Haven't been aware of a wet clutch slippage issue, check out the UOA's on this site and visit any number of MC forums. Redline moly level is lower now, but never was an issue before. They lowered it to get the MA2 designation from what I've read, but it's to meet the spec (good marketing) and not because of any clutch slippage issue that I am aware of.
Haven't been aware of a wet clutch slippage issue, check out the UOA's on this site and visit any number of MC forums. Redline moly level is lower now, but never was an issue before. They lowered it to get the MA2 designation from what I've read, but it's to meet the spec (good marketing) and not because of any clutch slippage issue that I am aware of.
It may be evidence that the bike with barely 1000 miles a year when you got it didn't need to clean the rings, but re-seat the rings from the sitting it had done. Typically a bike is ridden more when a rider first gets it, and unless it is known, that bike might have been ridden much less than 1000 miles a year for at least a few years before you bought it. Definitely could be cleaning, but I would suspect unless the oil was never changed in that 5000 miles before you got it, it was not dirty rings on a 5000 mile bike.
I'm interested if it burned 3/4 of a quart in the first 2,000 miles you had it, how was the oil consumption progression in the next 7,000 miles to get where you are now (14,000 miles on the bike)? Sounds like you have had it for 9000 miles. With 4000 mile OCI's the math would say you've changed it twice and are 1000 miles into the third OCI.
Those are my thoughts as well, now I have a “keep clean” regimen going on. I’m also dealing with replacing dried out seals. This particular owner laid it over once and parked it.
Thanks for the add'l info. Keep chipping away at the bike one thing at a time.
At205 can help the seals sometimes.
I've got a new to me '74 Yamaha RD200 and I changed the oil I believe to a 10W40 oil. I can hear the clutch slipping when I'm hard on the gas in higher gears, and I'm not sure if it's worn clutch plates or the oil. Years ago I read somewhere that the only oils that have "friction modifiers" are the ones that have the "Energy Conserving" label, which pretty much run from 0W20 up to 10W30. I've never seen a 10W40 that had the label. Can't any multi-grade oil without the label be safely used with a wet clutch? If not, what is the specific additive or formulation in motorcycle-specific oil that makes it compatible with wet clutches?
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Never use automotive oils in a bike..look for products specifically for motorcycles..and yes, you are correct. The reason they don't work is the friction modifiers cause the clutches to slip. I use Amsoil 10w-40 Metric motorcycle oil, but Castrol and several others have specific oils for bikes.
With very few exception, all motor oils have friction modifiers. Also, 10w-40 is not an energy conserving grade, only 5w or thinner can be made as energy conserving (and only as a 30 or thinner).
Usually, boutique racing car oils can come blended with heaps of additional friction modifiers, and that'd make the clutch difficult to fully grab. However, the vast majority of off-the-shelf car motor oils will be safe to use with a wet clutch (performing about to JASO MA1), as mainstreamed additive packages are more limited in FM content that reduces friction with clutches. Ultimately, the only way to be sure is if the blend/product was designed to have acceptable FM performance with wet clutches, such as meeting a transmission spec or JASO spec, which they'd list on the bottle.
Yes, I agree this is the best option
run a $20 perquart ester oil, and let it do its thing.