TGMO question

B

Bill_W

Joined
May 24, 2009
Messages
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Location
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I am all for the moly content in TGMO 0w-20 but my curiosity is the base oil used. Some here with much more info than myself has said that the base oil was GTL, others respected here has said the base oil is Yubase. The Noack is high at 12.9 and the VI is way high at 227. But love that moly ppm. (dinuclear)

A plus and minus for everything. Was thinking to try PUP 0w-20 because of the guaranteed GTL base and the additive package including boron. Thanks for your input.
 
Didn't you just ask this here?

TGMO 0W20 vs. M1 0W20 EP ?

Can I ask a few questions on this somewhat older thread? I presently run TGMO. TGMO 0w-20 has a Noack of 12.9, Does that point to the base oil being hydro cracked mineral oil or GTL? Also the VI is really high at 227, really high VII? Any comment on those numbers? The M1 EP had 70% PAO...
bobistheoilguy.com

and also discussed here?

0W-16 Strength & Durability

By "in grade," I would be asking.. does it retain its HTHS or possibly other SAE J300 properties that would keep it as a 20, a 30, a 40.. a 50, a 16. So.. would the oil become "less than," which is why some believe you need to go thicker. Without making this thread all about me. I frequently...
bobistheoilguy.com
 
Bill_W said:
I am all for the moly content in TGMO 0w-20 but my curiosity is the base oil used. Some here with much more info than myself has said that the base oil was GTL, others respected here has said the base oil is Yubase. The Noack is high at 12.9 and the VI is way high at 227. But love that moly ppm. (dinuclear)

A plus and minus for everything. Was thinking to try PUP 0w-20 because of the guaranteed GTL base and the additive package including boron. Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...
The best question you haven't asked is....does it matter in any significant or meaningful way?

Nope....
 
Bill_W said:
Was thinking to try PUP 0w-20 because of the guaranteed GTL base and the additive package including boron.
Click to expand...
PUP 0W-20 is good stuff. I just changed the oil in my (now) dad's RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI. Went from M1 FS 0W-40 to PUP 5W-20 and a Purolator filter. Buttery smooth works really well.
 
I have some TGMO 0w20 that's a few years old that I bought when TGMO was all the rage on this site. I don't have a Toyota so I've also wondered if it's good to run in my Ford's or Mazda that call for 20wt. I've thought of adding a quart (or half qt.) of Mobil 1 0w40 to it (a Caterham blend) to 'thicken' it up a bit. One of these days I'll use it.

PS: There are some guys on this site who think they're the BITOG 'police'....rather than answer the question asked they respond by pointing out "that's been asked before" or "use the search function". I don't understand why they don't either answer the question or ignore the post.
 
Last edited:
kschachn said:
Didn't you just ask this here?

TGMO 0W20 vs. M1 0W20 EP ?

Can I ask a few questions on this somewhat older thread? I presently run TGMO. TGMO 0w-20 has a Noack of 12.9, Does that point to the base oil being hydro cracked mineral oil or GTL? Also the VI is really high at 227, really high VII? Any comment on those numbers? The M1 EP had 70% PAO...
bobistheoilguy.com

and also discussed here?

0W-16 Strength & Durability

By "in grade," I would be asking.. does it retain its HTHS or possibly other SAE J300 properties that would keep it as a 20, a 30, a 40.. a 50, a 16. So.. would the oil become "less than," which is why some believe you need to go thicker. Without making this thread all about me. I frequently...
bobistheoilguy.com
Click to expand...
Well… I respect your answer. I also respect Gokhan who mentioned it a GTL base oil.
 
pbm said:
I have some TGMO 0w20 that's a few years old that I bought when TGMO was all the rage on this site. I don't have a Toyota so I've also wondered if it's good to run in my Ford's or Mazda that call for 20wt. I've thought of adding a quart (or half qt.) of Mobil 1 0w40 to it (a Caterham blend) to 'thicken' it up a bit. One of these days I'll use it.

PS: There are some guys on this site who think they're the BITOG 'police'....rather than answer the question asked they respond by pointing out "that's been asked before" or "use the search function". I don't understand why they don't either answer the question or ignore the post.
Click to expand...


Why would you question running it in a Ford or Mazda engine?

It will be fine.
 
pbm said:
I don't have a Toyota so I've also wondered if it's good to run in my Ford's or Mazda that call for 20wt.
Click to expand...
It's an API licensed motor oil and has the API Starburst on the bottle. You can run it in any gasoline engine that calls for 0W-20 if it doesn't stipulate additional OEM approvals like Land Rover/Jaguar or Daimler MB229.71. However, this isn't the case for your typical Ford or Mazda engine. You will be fine.

pbm said:
I've thought of adding a quart (or half qt.) of Mobil 1 0w40 to it (a Caterham blend) to 'thicken' it up a bit. One of these days I'll use it.
Click to expand...
You will not gain anything by doing this, and in fact, you might hurt the oil's ability to do its job. I remember back in the day when truckers that knew Lucas Oil Stabilizer was bad were supplementing their Diesel oil with Gear Lube to "thicken it." Could I talk anyone out of it? Nope. It's not a good idea, but if you insist on doing it, I can't stop you. Will it damage anything? Probably not, and to some degree, the two oils should be compatible.

pbm said:
PS: There are some guys on this site who think they're the BITOG 'police'....rather than answer the question asked they respond by pointing out "that's been asked before" or "use the search function". I don't understand why they don't either answer the question or ignore the post.
Click to expand...
Not the core members of this community. They are very knowledgeable and courteous. Usually, it's new folks who either joined recently or stop by here only once in a while. It's usually someone who uses your curiosity against you so that they can vent their own frustration or blow off some steam at your expense. Don't think too much of it, and as long as they're not too insulting, ignore them.
 
I ran TGMO for a time in my 2006 Accord. From what I can tell (NOACK) it is likely mainly group III. For the same money ultimately I decided more mainstream oils were probably "better" for the same or better price. You mention PUP, that is a good oil. Along with PP and M1, M1 EP etc.
 
Bill_W said:
And as said… the answers I got conflicted.
Click to expand...
Odds are they'll be "conflicted" again. ;) All kidding aside, I'd chose my favorite XOM offering for the application and call it a day. TGMO imo was overrated and over hyped here.
 
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