TGMO 0w-20 or PYB 5w-20?

[klt1986]

Getting ready to change the oil in my 2011 Tundra with the 5.7 liter engine. Seriously considering going back to Pennzoil Conventional 5w20, as this is what the dealer used for the first four oil changes Toyota provides with the 2 year maintenance plan. I have to change the oil every 6 months or 5,000 miles(whichever comes first) to keep the powertrain warranty intact. I only run 3 to 4 thousand miles in a 6 month period and the winters are rather mild. I feel like I'm wasting the TGMO changing at such short intervals. Any opinions?

I figure once the powertrain warranty has expired I can go back to a full synthetic and change it once a year.

 

[montero1]

PYB for those intervals. Or Valvoline conventional. Whatever's cheapest between the two.

 

[Shannow]

Recent UOA (Sonata) on Pennzoil Conventional 5w20 is great.

 

[Lex94]

Pennzoil High Mileage 5w20 might be more shear stable.

 

[oilstudent24]

I thought that you could go 1 yr or 10000 on TGMO or maybe any 0 W 20 to still keep the warranty unless you fit some extreme use condition. I think the 5 weights reduce the interval.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Lex94
Pennzoil High Mileage 5w20 might be more shear stable.


The Pennzoil conventional data sheets and High mileage data sheets that I've found today (old, like 2010/11) show them the same in every respect...but stuff's changed since then.

Using A Harman's technique posted here gives the Pennzoil conventional a score of 0.928, versus TGMO 0.844, so the Pennzoil conventional displays less temporary shear (and possibly better shear stability through the OCI)

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: oilstudent24
I thought that you could go 1 yr or 10000 on TGMO or maybe any 0 W 20 to still keep the warranty unless you fit some extreme use condition. I think the 5 weights reduce the interval.


OP probably has the flex fuel motor, which is 5k interval when running on gas. For some unknown reason.

 

[klt1986]

Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: oilstudent24
I thought that you could go 1 yr or 10000 on TGMO or maybe any 0 W 20 to still keep the warranty unless you fit some extreme use condition. I think the 5 weights reduce the interval.


OP probably has the flex fuel motor, which is 5k interval when running on gas. For some unknown reason.


No, I don't have flex fuel engine. The 2011 5.7L Tundra's came from the factory with 5w-20. You can run 0w-20 per the manual but you still must follow the 6 month/5,000 mile interval.

 

[Lex94]

It is not Resource Conserving ILSAC garbage (It seems to be the only high mileage oil is non-RC) so it should be excellent.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_GTDS_Pennzoil_High_Mileage_Vehicle_5W-20_Motor_Oil_%28SN%29_%28en%29_TDS.pdf

Here is the 5w30 version:

http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/PZHM.htm

 

[Bud_One]

Run the Pennzoil conventional for your OCI

 

[SilverC6]

PYB would be a great choice.

My dealer used 5W-20 Mobil Super 5000 conventional through the factory two year maintenance period on my 5.7 liter Toyota Land Cruiser.

Don't overlook Havoline 5W-20 either.

There are very few "bad" 5W-20's out there.

 

[benjy]

use a 10w30, less viscosity index improvers + a stronger oil overall. generally 6 mo is recommended change for mineral oils including group III legally labeled synthetic. mobil I extended performance uses some PAO real synthetic + is recommended for longer drains. group III fake synthetics are cleaner + flow better with very little wax etc left after refining.you can go to the top of the oil chain, Amsoil signature series group IV + V real synthetic, with no wax etc as its formulated not refined!! its high TBN + quality base oils are made for yearly drains as i do. i change the filter @ 6 mo's, thats just me

 

[Nate1979]

Originally Posted By: benjy
use a 10w30, less viscosity index improvers + a stronger oil overall. generally 6 mo is recommended change for mineral oils including group III legally labeled synthetic. mobil I extended performance uses some PAO real synthetic + is recommended for longer drains. group III fake synthetics are cleaner + flow better with very little wax etc left after refining.you can go to the top of the oil chain, Amsoil signature series group IV + V real synthetic, with no wax etc as its formulated not refined!! its high TBN + quality base oils are made for yearly drains as i do. i change the filter @ 6 mo's, thats just me


What a load of garbage.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: benjy
use a 10w30, less viscosity index improvers + a stronger oil overall. generally 6 mo is recommended change for mineral oils including group III legally labeled synthetic. mobil I extended performance uses some PAO real synthetic + is recommended for longer drains. group III fake synthetics are cleaner + flow better with very little wax etc left after refining.you can go to the top of the oil chain, Amsoil signature series group IV + V real synthetic, with no wax etc as its formulated not refined!! its high TBN + quality base oils are made for yearly drains as i do. i change the filter @ 6 mo's, thats just me



You'd think our members would be above this.

More perpetuation of nonsense,wrapped up with a bow of toilet paper.

 

[Lex94]

"use a 10w30, less viscosity index improvers + a stronger oil overall"

Agreed.

 

[KCJeep]

Pennzoil for the win!

 

[Alex38]

In your application, Pennzoil conventional without a second thought. No reason to pay for a synthetic oil and dump it at 5k in your application.