Thanks for all the replies
I think this test will probably give some valuable info but it likely won't be real accurate. The way I see it the spring should start to move at 8psi and finish at 11psi if that is the specs. So if we see numbers in that range we know there is some bypassing. The other theory is that the 8-11psi is a manufacturing tolerances for the spring to be fully compressed or maybe just starting to move. Anyone got any info on what these specs really mean? Filterguy?
leanintoit, I think these bypasses do seal well. The one on an FL1A has a rubber seal that looks like a 1 1/2" flat washer with a 3/4" hole in it. From the looks of it I'd say it would seal well as long as there is enough spring pressure. No tellin on a fram or other cheapos.
GaryAllen, thanks for all the part #s and specs. Where are you all getting these filter specs? Online? Also does anyone know of any filters with the 3/4-16 thread that don't have any bypass? I know some of the AC chevy filters don't have bypasses but they are all the wrong thread. I guess I could buy a second remote mount, they're only $12.
427Z06, I will test a new filter and with some miles on it but not 6K. This truck('69 bronco)is only a weekend warrior so it onlys see 2-4k a year unless I take a trip down the baja or several to moab. Also the pressure release in the pump in this motor starts to open at 90psi. So the it's only bouncing off the release when its pretty cold and over 3000rpm which I don't do if I can help it. This is on 10w40.
It seems that the argument goes on here as to will it or won't it. This is the reason I want to does this test. I get tired of people telling me that money spent on high dollar filters is wasted because they bypass all the time anyway. I hope the enginerds that designed the FF system were smarter than that. If FF filters bypass all the time, then why not just run a bypass filter that filters to less microns like they did in the '50s? Hopefully I can get some results that puts this to rest. Plus I can have that warm fuzzy feeling that my engine is getting filtered oil as I'm driving around.
I think I will use two 2 5/8" mechanical autometer gauges because I have to buy one for another truck anyway. This way I will only spend $40 on gauges directly for the test. The remote mount and some of the plumbing I already have because I am planning on putting an oilcooler on for next summer. I will run the tests before I put the cooler on though. I also already have a mechanical gauge in the dash for a third. So the only extra parts I would have to buy is some fittings and such.
The oil and filters will probably be the biggest cost especially if I want to test some 0w-30 and 5w-40 syns this winter. The filters I plan to test are Motorcraft, Amsoil, and Napa Golds(wix) of various sizes because thats all I run. Maybe a fram too just to see how bad they are with that litte plastic valve in the bottom. If the tests come out with conclusive results I may do more.
What RPM and oil temp intervals do you all think I should test at. I'm thinking 20-220F in 20degree intervals and idle to 3500rpm in 500rpms increments should be enough data. The real cold temps and high temps could be hard because the oil changes temp so fast. I may have to mount the gauges in the truck so I can take numbers quicker. The extreme temps may not matter much anyway depending on if its in full bypass already. I can push 260 in the summer if I want but I don't know if I can get much colder than zero. This carbed motor complains a lot if it's started much below zero.
I just had another though. I have 400M that is being built that I could run the test on in a couple months. What better way to break in a motor than changing oil and filters a lot. It would push the test back a couple months though. How patient are you guys? Sorry for the long post. Dang I'm long winded!
