Tell me what you think...Pics Volvo

[iunderpressure]

Originally Posted By: tig1
I would switch to M1 5-30HM and add nothine else to it. Run your OCIs out to 10K and change your filter at 5K for the next two oil changes. After that no additional filter changes would be needed.


I thought about this too, but why the 5w30 hm over the 0w40?

 

[Norm Olt]

Looks pretty good to me. For the mileage you are putting on @ "mostly 75+ mph" & with a turbo I'd go with a 10W-30 myself...

I don't know if your is an old-enough Volvo to be as durable as the one's from the late 60's - early '70's, but they used to run forever at 75 mph.

Cheers!

p.s. Do you have a spare 2.3 engine waiting in the wings?

p.p.s. Looks like your commute might be from Indy to Dayton, or Cincy, maybe?

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Nothing like a little "Castrol Red".

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: iunderpressure
Originally Posted By: tig1
I would switch to M1 5-30HM and add nothine else to it. Run your OCIs out to 10K and change your filter at 5K for the next two oil changes. After that no additional filter changes would be needed.


I thought about this too, but why the 5w30 hm over the 0w40?


0-40 is a quality oil, however the HM version is formulated more for sludge and varnish cleaning.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ

Since it was mentioned with oil consumption and varnish, my guess is that it is equivalent to PCV system. And form descriptions given it looks like a needlessly complicated contraption that, until now, I thought only Germans were capable of creating

Ouch! As a whiteblock fanboy, I'll just say that this is really the only dumb thing on this car. The good part of course is that you get to change your IM gasket and check out your intake valves every 150K! Yeah, the PCV system is actually buried underneath the intake manifold, and it's held down buy a couple of bolts that are in some really creative locations...

Originally Posted By: tig1
I would switch to M1 5-30HM and add nothine else to it.


HM? This engine is just breaking in, why would he need that?

And really, besides a slavish devotion to all things Mobil, why would you recommend he change from PU? It seems pretty well-suited to a high-boost turbo not seeing the track. I'd stay with an oil that meets the HTO-06 spec, and Ultra seems like a good choice. This block is really porous and seems to stain easily. M1 0W40 produced pretty much the same bright red stain in mine. With his oil change habits though, I seriously doubt this is any more than staining of the aluminum--I'm sure it's clean in there.

 

[tig1]

Jod,
Just breaking in, no it has 273K. Pu is a very good oil, however M1 HM is formulated for cleaning sludge and heavy varnish, PU does not make that claim as a HM formulation.

 

[JOD]

you really don't need to run a HM oil in this engine. Keep in mind that the cam seals are replaced as regular maintenance when you do the T-belt, and the valve stem seals are an in-car job. His consumption for a 2.3L turbo is minimal, and will probably be cut in half after doing the PCV system.

There are white blocks with well over 400K on them. Maintained properly, this engine will go a long, long time. It's a baby @ 270K.

 

[OVERKILL]

"God normally doesn't use oil. But when he does, it is Mobil 1 0w40."

 

[Ken2]

That engine looks fine. Unless you can see wear on the cam lobes that don't show in the pics, keep doing what you're doing. The brown staining means nothing. The varnish that matters is a hard brown coating with some thickness, and I don't see that.

I run Schaeffer's #9000 5W-40 in my 200,000 mile Volvo turbo with 10k ODI and great analysis reports. Neither Auto-Rx nor Kreen used according to directions much any visual or performance difference--it still runs great. (It did seem to run a bit smoother after A-Rx, and there was a bit more crud on the mag drain plug after using Kreen, but nothing major in either case.)