Tecumseh Snow King: knock when pulling recoil,

[ChrisJH]

Had it since new attached to my Ariens snowblower, its about 8 yrs old at this point (8 well used but well cared for years)

SnowKing 9HP, L-head. I was pulling the recoil today with the spark plug disconnected but still tight in the head (checking to make sure the auger wasnt engaged until the handle made it). I noticed what sounds like a knocking noise coming from the crankcase area while pulling the recoil. Normal use the engine SOUNDS OK, but its so darn loud I cant really tell. It has no problem starting or throwing snow as far as can be. it does vibrate some, but Ive always just attributed that to being an L-head

So, is some sort of noise while pulling the recoil normal? Or am I looking at a tear down? My goal is to at least make it through the rest of the snow season before I do that, since I dont have a backup engine or blower to use (Murphys Law says we'll get 3' of snow the minute I take the engine off the blower)

Thanks in advance.

-Chris

 

[hemitom]

I had a 30 year blower with a 10 horse tech engine, it made sort of a clanking knocking sound when pulling over with out the plug could never determine if it was from the engine or recoil, anyways at 30 years old it ran like a charm. so i wouldn't worry about the noise.

 

[jeepman3071]

Greetings fellow CT'er!

If you pull off the belt cover on the auger side, you can rotate the engine to top dead center using the crank pulley. With the spark plug wire removed, rock the engine back and forth. If you hear a knocking sound, that is the rod bearing.

Two essential things for Tecumseh engines:

1. Make sure the oil level is FULL. They seem to require the oil to be full, anything under full (even in the okay range) can cause issues.

2. How fast does the engine run? Does it sound like it is over revving? The number 1 cause of Tecumseh failures that I've seen is over revving. The governor springs get weak or sticky and the engine will rev too high.

 

[ChrisJH]

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Greetings fellow CT'er!

If you pull off the belt cover on the auger side, you can rotate the engine to top dead center using the crank pulley. With the spark plug wire removed, rock the engine back and forth. If you hear a knocking sound, that is the rod bearing.

Two essential things for Tecumseh engines:

1. Make sure the oil level is FULL. They seem to require the oil to be full, anything under full (even in the okay range) can cause issues.

2. How fast does the engine run? Does it sound like it is over revving? The number 1 cause of Tecumseh failures that I've seen is over revving. The governor springs get weak or sticky and the engine will rev too high.


Will give that a shot. I changed the oil last night and noticed the level was about 1/8" lower than the "Full" mark on the dipstick itself (before the oil change). Hopefully that didnt cause permanent damage. Last I checked it was normal but maybe I read it incorrectly or too quickly (plus the oil is pretty clear so its hard to tell an exact level without lots of light that I dont have in my garage)

Its definitely not over-revving. Loud? Yes, but it doesnt sound like its screaming (Ive had a Briggs engine with improper governor adjustment so I think I have an idea of what it would sound like)

Would there be any other symptoms if the rod was bad/is about to go? It runs just fine, throws snow just fine, etc.

 

[Lubener]

1/8 inch below full will not cause any issues. You could have some rod bearing wear but if it is bad enough, you will hear a loud knocking while the engine is running. Make sure you have the correct weight oil for your operating temperatures.Even too thick of an oil in cold temps will cause noise until it warms up.I doubt you will have govnor issues in an eight year old snowblower. There are not many hours on it compared to a lawn mower.

 

[ChrisJH]

Originally Posted By: Lubener
1/8 inch below full will not cause any issues. You could have some rod bearing wear but if it is bad enough, you will hear a loud knocking while the engine is running. Make sure you have the correct weight oil for your operating temperatures.Even too thick of an oil in cold temps will cause noise until it warms up.I doubt you will have govnor issues in an eight year old snowblower. There are not many hours on it compared to a lawn mower.


Thanks.

Aside from the first season where I used the "factory included break in oil", it has seen German Castrol 0W-30 changed at the end of every season (except last season, since I changed it mid-season and only used it for one storm after that, I didnt change again at end of season)

So it shouldnt be an oil quality issue. The darn thing only uses 26 oz so I dont mind paying even full price for 1 quart of GC for the snowblower.

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: ChrisJH
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Greetings fellow CT'er!

If you pull off the belt cover on the auger side, you can rotate the engine to top dead center using the crank pulley. With the spark plug wire removed, rock the engine back and forth. If you hear a knocking sound, that is the rod bearing.

Two essential things for Tecumseh engines:

1. Make sure the oil level is FULL. They seem to require the oil to be full, anything under full (even in the okay range) can cause issues.

2. How fast does the engine run? Does it sound like it is over revving? The number 1 cause of Tecumseh failures that I've seen is over revving. The governor springs get weak or sticky and the engine will rev too high.


Will give that a shot. I changed the oil last night and noticed the level was about 1/8" lower than the "Full" mark on the dipstick itself (before the oil change). Hopefully that didnt cause permanent damage. Last I checked it was normal but maybe I read it incorrectly or too quickly (plus the oil is pretty clear so its hard to tell an exact level without lots of light that I dont have in my garage)

Its definitely not over-revving. Loud? Yes, but it doesnt sound like its screaming (Ive had a Briggs engine with improper governor adjustment so I think I have an idea of what it would sound like)

Would there be any other symptoms if the rod was bad/is about to go? It runs just fine, throws snow just fine, etc.


That shouldn't be enough to harm it. Good to hear its not over revving, that is a problem on many of them.

One way I like to check for rod knock is buy a good pair of hearing protection ear muffs. Not the ear plugs, but the ones that cover your ears. I wear them when I run the machine and this helps muffle the white noise of the engine, and strangely enough helps me distinguish knocking sounds. Without hearing protection, any slight knocks just blend in with the white noise of the engine.

 

[JTK]

Chris, a similar thing happened to an MTD "Gold" 10hp flathead Tecumseh snowblower in the family. The coil that powered the headlamp came dislodged from behind the flywheel and ultimately jammed and punched a hole through the block.

My brother was able to salvage it by removing the engine, pulling the flywheel, removing the coil shrapnel (no more headlight ). JB-Welding the hole/crack and reinstalling. Only issue is we were never able to get the governor linkage right. Can't get the RPMs back to what they were.

 

[ChrisJH]

Originally Posted By: JTK
Chris, a similar thing happened to an MTD "Gold" 10hp flathead Tecumseh snowblower in the family. The coil that powered the headlamp came dislodged from behind the flywheel and ultimately jammed and punched a hole through the block.

My brother was able to salvage it by removing the engine, pulling the flywheel, removing the coil shrapnel (no more headlight ). JB-Welding the hole/crack and reinstalling. Only issue is we were never able to get the governor linkage right. Can't get the RPMs back to what they were.


Thats an interesting coincidence, since my headlight bulb died sometime in the last couple seasons. I just assumed it was a bad bulb (which it probably is) but since Ive never tried replacing it I have no idea of the alternator works, or if it could possibly be broken and rattling around like yours did.