techs at oil change never torque down the filter

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Sarge, that's great. For me though, ever since the first time I did an oil change (I know, a whole 2 months ago!) I just tightened them as hard as I could by hand, and it's worked great on the 3 cars i've done since then. No leaks, and easier removal.
 
Here are some Honda filter pictures, posted in this Thread on a Honda Forum . Kinda hard to read, but the instructions do include "Torque to 2.0-" something, probably Nm. And an alternate hand tighten 1/4 turn past contact.

So somebody, somewhere is probably using a torque wrench on their honda filters.

But it still doesn't change my suspicions that what we have here is someone swimming in the shallow end of the gene pool!
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LOL, painfully true you are! I thought the one on my cherokee was welded on, even had two other big guys try it to no avail. No joke, the filter was visually beyond recognition afterwards and had to actually tow the jeep into the dealer. Wonder what kind of salary the filter gorilla gets?

As an aside-back to the thread topic, from what I've experienced before I started doing my own oil changes years ago was that the quik lube boobs would not even hand tighten the oil fitler 3/4 to one full turn after contact with the base. I would routinely inspect after an oil change and find out that the oil filter was very loose to where I had to hand tighten it to standard, had this happen at least 50% of the time. I strongly suspect this is one of the primary reasons why parking lots/driveways are full of oil staining.
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Just ask the gorilla who put your original factory filter on.


 
i posted this lastnight when I was high and slightly buzzed.

sorry guys..

hey the way my car is spooling up, it has to be tight but someone out there is checking their filter to make sure it is tight after letting a bubba do it. you gotta remember, these techs sometimes think they are doing everything for free and can do it anyway they want or not at all in some cases. that is all i am saying is you have to be carefull they are actually doing things as they're supposed to, that's all.

Hey I am sure some learned here as did I.

I actually did not know this.
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Keep in mind that tightening an oil filter by hand is not like tightening a nut by hand. First of all, most oil filters are about 2 3/4" to 4" in diameter. When you tighten one by hand, you are putting much more torque on the assembly that you ever could trying to tighten a nut with you fingers. I have NEVER had a hand-tightened filter EVEN loosen up or leak on me and I have been driving and changing filters since the early 1960's. I have found that, even when tightened only by hand, they are a ----- to remove without a tool!
 
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Keep in mind that tightening an oil filter by hand is not like tightening a nut by hand. First of all, most oil filters are about 2 3/4" to 4" in diameter. When you tighten one by hand, you are putting much more torque on the assembly that you ever could trying to tighten a nut with you fingers. I have NEVER had a hand-tightened filter EVEN loosen up or leak on me and I have been driving and changing filters since the early 1960's. I have found that, even when tightened only by hand, they are a ----- to remove without a tool!




Sweet..the best post are usually more gritty, no pun intended. ok, I got it..sweet..only need to hand tighten it. allright guys, my hats off to everyone who posted here! even the funny duddy ones.. hey deep down, all i care about is a car that spools up at your every beck and call. bam!, I hit the gas and my rpms are allready at 2000k and just asking to be pushed more. ofcourse for takeoffs, that's a norm as I get ready to blast some vtec. I am getting that and so I am tickled pink.

speaking of grit, better have my air filter blasted out a bit..well, don't just stand there and gawk at this..get busy! we have work to do..
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You know, if I had known I was trying my best to provide good information to a stoner that isn't going to retain the info anyway, I would have saved my ASCII.

This is just my personal opinion, but I think you need to be doing something besides wasting our time here, bub.
Something like rehab perhaps.

As mentioned before, you have provided us with information that now makes it clear why your posts are the way they are.
I for one, am completly done with you, jr.
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Here are some Honda filter pictures, posted in this Thread on a Honda Forum . Kinda hard to read, but the instructions do include "Torque to 2.0-" something, probably Nm. And an alternate hand tighten 1/4 turn past contact.

So somebody, somewhere is probably using a torque wrench on their honda filters.

But it still doesn't change my suspicions that what we have here is someone swimming in the DEEP end of the gene pool! :nod:




Thanks blue..Everyone shold look at this thread atleast once..Thread on filters at Forum especially with all the pweety pwictures
Hey, since I am using the Toyo Roki filter, would that be the same as the JDM Honda filter right where someone said:

JDM > Filtech(USa made) > FRAM ?

meaning JDM is better then Filtech which is better then FRAM filters?

thanks..


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This guy gives stoners a bad rep.



riiight....

Seems like every time I've had some else change the oil, they put the filter on waaaay to tight and its a cursing fest to get it off.
 
In the filter book at work, there is a torque spec listed for each filter we sell. It is usually around 12-18 ft. lbs. depending on which filter you are installing. I have never torqued a filter. I turn it a 1/4 turn once it seats. I have installed literally thousands of oil filters over the past couple of years, and I think I may have had 2 or 3 that have leaked (all due to other factors besides under/over-tightening).
 
There is no clearance to use a torque wrench to tighten the spin-on oil filters on the vehicles I own. I always use seal contact + 3/4 turn (approximate), really can't see it that well. I have wondered if a severe over-tightening would cause malfunction of ADBV or bypass valve.
 
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This guy gives stoners a bad rep.



riiight....

Seems like every time I've had some else change the oil, they put the filter on waaaay to tight and its a cursing fest to get it off.




yeah you tell em..make him keep it real..i swear people come here to rant more then speak intelligibly sometimes. you don't know how easily someone can screw up, botch or doom a trivial act of oil + filter swap till you had it done to you and then you will persecute (and curse) the real scammers and that is where you all should spew your bottled up venom and also some of these shops that don't do quality work and then get mad when you "Watch them" haha Yeah, I'm your QA, QC and CIA on all the above, beach. But seriously, if it not the crush washer that techs forget, its also the lubing the gasket or how about our all-time favorite of OVERFILLING.. yeah, I bet you all have not got enough of all that! DIY is the best way to make sure the filter is tight and btw, I get it now..noone uses a torque wrench...sue me, I pay someone else good money to swap out my car's consumables!
 
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All cars have a torque specification for the filter, however i've never seen it done at any quick-lube place or dealer.

I agree "hand tight" is not very specific. Some hands are bigger and stronger than others. However most, if not all filters have tightening instructions on the filter and/or the box. Following these is a reasonably good way to get the correct torque.

For my OEM filters, 3/4 turn past gasket contact is the specification. Mazda OEM filters use the rounded type gasket which i find to be better.

Frams have too much gasket material sticking out from the filter. Purolators don't have enough. WIX is perfect.
 
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