I’m of the opinion that viscosity is overrated. Most engine issues are from oil change frequency, not the OEM viscosity recommendation.
T24 a - FTS turbo engine
- Thread starter mikeduf
- Start date
Been using 40 since the second oil change on my 21 escalade since it burned too much 0w-20 for my liking and valvetrain was noisy but never clattery like other cars are with 0w-20 but that's likely because the cam and lifters are buried inside in an ohv. Didn't like the low oil pressure either. It burns very little and I can have my head near the wheel well at hot idle and not hear much. Still under warranty too.
Using a bit of 2 stroke if I remember quiets down the injectors and gdi pump a lot to where it's almost port injected. The 16 outlander sport benefits from 2 stroke the most. Almost no engine braking when coasting and it smoothened out a lot to where my daughter asked where I filled it up since it ran so smooth and was quieter sounding on the last tank without telling her.
Recently a recall switched the 6.2 to 40 but I've been using 40 grade for 4 years but I never bothered to keep receipts. For the Mitsubishi I've used only euro 30/40 but a few times it went to a quick lube to get the bolt, filter. and even fill cap over tightened along with 0w-20 which I could hear it had when it came home. Warranty expired only a half year ago on it but I also never worried about receipts. Had to tap the pan last year since the last quick lube screwed it up and wouldn't stop dripping.
But wow did that dohc shut up with euro 30/40. Ran PP euro L 5w-30 a couple times before when walmart carried it on shelves but I've ran quaker state 5w-40 and castrol 0w-40 recently. Used to hear that mitsubishi buzz up the driveway from a distance when home. If I drove it I had to turn the radio up to not hear it but now it sneaks up on me and the engine is so quiet even with the radio and fan off. Burns no oil too and my daughter took it to 9k but the oil still looked medium colored on the stick. Far from black or even dark brown.
For a turbo gdi engine like the t24 I don't care if they say the epa stuff is acceptable I'm just not using it. Turbo bearing benefits a lot. I'd use at least 30 grade but I'm still using 40 though it'd be easy to get away using esp 0w-30 since the verbiage says to use a grade higher but two would give them reason if they wanted to fight. Besides toyotas that run 0w-20 grade outside of the US can run up to 20w-50. As for fuel economy the tank average difference was about the same barely 2% off but there's margin of error and driving habit changes.
Given that past threads discussed engines lasting well beyond what they should even the very unreliable ones like the 3.6 gm as long as they had very frequent changes I say you're right. But it doesn't cost much to believe in doing both since both help. There is something special about keeping the oil fresh and from accumulating abrasive particles.
I would comment from the stand point of Toyota owner driving 2.4L 4 cyl. non-turbo engine. I've never had a turbo car. I always follow the manufacturer oil recommendation, in this case 0W-20. I cannot imagine a turbo engine using the same oil that my car is using because the engine temp. are very different. I can tell you for sure that after 5K miles the 0W-20 in my engine is done - that's what UOA show. People with your engine mentioned they change the oil every 3K miles instead of 5K miles. That makes sense.
However, I have used 5W-30 in the summer and planning to go back to 5W-30 next summer, having in mind I live in the Midwest and winter temp. often drop to 10°F, and we have every winter for a couple of weeks temp of 5°F.
In your case living in relatively hot climate (CA), driving GTDI engine (with its specifics) and if you like 5K OCI, I would chose 5W-30 European formula ACEA C3. You can choose Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP, Castrol, Valvoline or any other 5W-30 ACEA C3 oil. The higher temp. in turbo engines comes not only because the engine spins faster than a N/A engine, but because the motor oil lubricates the turbo shaft which reaches speeds b/w 80,000 and 200,000 rpm.
Citing from the link in my first post:
https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=216
ACEA C3 is robust (HTHS of at least 3.5 cP) mid SAPS oil which provides optimum engine protection at high temp. and also makes it easy on the cat. converter. You can try also 5W-30 ACEA A3/B4 oil, but that one is full SAPS, provides better protection (you won't notice) and will load unnecessary the cat. converter.
Understanding European oil standards - ACEA specifications
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-ksa/understanding-oil-standards-acea-specifications/
^ and gasoline engines as well
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If you are referring to the current toyota 2.5 liter non-turbo engine (A25A), the factory recommended viscosities are either 0W-8 or 0W-16. For street driving and 5K OCI, 0W-20 is perfectly fine. If i am taking to the track, then i will switch to 5W-30.
No, I was referring to 10 years old 2AR-FE. The manual says 0W-20.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
You gonna take to track what?