I’m of the opinion that viscosity is overrated. Most engine issues are from oil change frequency, not the OEM viscosity recommendation.
T24 a - FTS turbo engine
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Been using 40 since the second oil change on my 21 escalade since it burned too much 0w-20 for my liking and valvetrain was noisy but never clattery like other cars are with 0w-20 but that's likely because the cam and lifters are buried inside in an ohv. Didn't like the low oil pressure either. It burns very little and I can have my head near the wheel well at hot idle and not hear much. Still under warranty too.
Using a bit of 2 stroke if I remember quiets down the injectors and gdi pump a lot to where it's almost port injected. The 16 outlander sport benefits from 2 stroke the most. Almost no engine braking when coasting and it smoothened out a lot to where my daughter asked where I filled it up since it ran so smooth and was quieter sounding on the last tank without telling her.
Recently a recall switched the 6.2 to 40 but I've been using 40 grade for 4 years but I never bothered to keep receipts. For the Mitsubishi I've used only euro 30/40 but a few times it went to a quick lube to get the bolt, filter. and even fill cap over tightened along with 0w-20 which I could hear it had when it came home. Warranty expired only a half year ago on it but I also never worried about receipts. Had to tap the pan last year since the last quick lube screwed it up and wouldn't stop dripping.
But wow did that dohc shut up with euro 30/40. Ran Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5w30 a couple times before when walmart carried it on shelves but I've ran quaker state 5w-40 and castrol 0w-40 recently. Used to hear that mitsubishi buzz up the driveway from a distance when home. If I drove it I had to turn the radio up to not hear it but now it sneaks up on me and the engine is so quiet even with the radio and fan off. Burns no oil too and my daughter took it to 9k but the oil still looked medium colored on the stick. Far from black or even dark brown.
For a turbo gdi engine like the t24 I don't care if they say the epa stuff is acceptable I'm just not using it. Turbo bearing benefits a lot. I'd use at least 30 grade but I'm still using 40 though it'd be easy to get away using esp 0w-30 since the verbiage says to use a grade higher but two would give them reason if they wanted to fight. Besides toyotas that run 0w-20 grade outside of the US can run up to 20w-50. As for fuel economy the tank average difference was about the same barely 2% off but there's margin of error and driving habit changes.
Given that past threads discussed engines lasting well beyond what they should even the very unreliable ones like the 3.6 gm as long as they had very frequent changes I say you're right. But it doesn't cost much to believe in doing both since both help. There is something special about keeping the oil fresh and from accumulating abrasive particles.
I would comment from the stand point of Toyota owner driving 2.4L 4 cyl. non-turbo engine. I've never had a turbo car. I always follow the manufacturer oil recommendation, in this case 0W-20. I cannot imagine a turbo engine using the same oil that my car is using because the engine temp. are very different. I can tell you for sure that after 5K miles the 0W-20 in my engine is done - that's what UOA show. People with your engine mentioned they change the oil every 3K miles instead of 5K miles. That makes sense.
However, I have used 5W-30 in the summer and planning to go back to 5W-30 next summer, having in mind I live in the Midwest and winter temp. often drop to 10°F, and we have every winter for a couple of weeks temp of 5°F.
In your case living in relatively hot climate (CA), driving GTDI engine (with its specifics) and if you like 5K OCI, I would chose 5W-30 European formula ACEA C3. You can choose Mobil 1 ESP 5w30, Castrol, Valvoline or any other 5W-30 ACEA C3 oil. The higher temp. in turbo engines comes not only because the engine spins faster than a N/A engine, but because the motor oil lubricates the turbo shaft which reaches speeds b/w 80,000 and 200,000 rpm.
Citing from the link in my first post:
https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=216
ACEA C3 is robust (HTHS of at least 3.5 cP) mid SAPS oil which provides optimum engine protection at high temp. and also makes it easy on the cat. converter. You can try also 5W-30 ACEA A3/B4 oil, but that one is full SAPS, provides better protection (you won't notice) and will load unnecessary the cat. converter.
Understanding European oil standards - ACEA specifications
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-ksa/understanding-oil-standards-acea-specifications/
^ and gasoline engines as well
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If you are referring to the current toyota 2.5 liter non-turbo engine (A25A), the factory recommended viscosities are either 0W-8 or 0W-16. For street driving and 5K OCI, 0W-20 is perfectly fine. If i am taking to the track, then i will switch to 5W-30.
No, I was referring to 10 years old 2AR-FE. The manual says 0W-20.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
You gonna take to track what?
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You get two free oil changes from the dealership. Some dealers will do them only at 10,000 and 20,000, others will do them at 5k and 10k if you ask them. But it's 2 oil changes max for free.
If you get it done under ToyotaCare you will be getting 6 quarts of 0w20 Toyota motor oil and a Toyota oil filter.
If all you ever did was use the Toyota 0w20, I'm sure you'll be fine. Or super tech, or Costco or whatever is on sale for $17 per 5 quarts. And if you changed it every 7500 - 10k miles, it'd probably be OK.
The engine does not run particularly hot under most conditions. Oil temps are conservative, you will seldom see above 210 F, typically around 197-203F for highway driving and most city driving. But it is imperative if you let the engine idle for one minute after you've had that turbo running for a while so it can cool down before you shut it off.
If you off road, esp at altitude (6500'+) where there's 10+ psi boost rolling with any load, and use 4Hi, the oil and transmission get hot. In 4Lo there's no boost, but oil still gets hot. I've seen oil temps 240 to 250F sustained, transmission temps 250F. transmission temps are much better in 4Lo. 230s usually.
Not super comfortable with 240F+ sustained temps on tgmo 0w-20.
But for 99.5% of my other driving I think it's fine. This is just an opinion. I'm not a scientist.
As the owner of a '23 RX350 with this engine, I will chime in on this one. Good to see some discussion on this engine since it's use has expanded across the Toyota/Lexus line.
As far as I can tell, the owner's manual excerpt that @JavierH19 posted is from the Australian market manual. The only "recommended" viscosity for the NA market is 0W-20.
I have done oil changes at approximately 800, 5,000, 10,000 and 15,000 miles to date. The only included "free" dealer provided oil change was at the 10,000 mile service interval. All of my own changes have been done using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30.
I had a used oil analysis done at the 15,311 mile change with 4,326 miles on the oil. I was specifically looking to see if this engine was a fuel diluter or not, and if so, how bad. The results are attached and speak for themselves; moderate fuel dilution. My typical driving includes short trips, cold starts and plenty of spirited driving.
While I personally think that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a good oil, I am thinking of moving on to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 moving forward.
As far as I can tell, the owner's manual excerpt that @JavierH19 posted is from the Australian market manual. The only "recommended" viscosity for the NA market is 0W-20.
I have done oil changes at approximately 800, 5,000, 10,000 and 15,000 miles to date. The only included "free" dealer provided oil change was at the 10,000 mile service interval. All of my own changes have been done using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30.
I had a used oil analysis done at the 15,311 mile change with 4,326 miles on the oil. I was specifically looking to see if this engine was a fuel diluter or not, and if so, how bad. The results are attached and speak for themselves; moderate fuel dilution. My typical driving includes short trips, cold starts and plenty of spirited driving.
While I personally think that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a good oil, I am thinking of moving on to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 moving forward.
Haha, yeah, PBR's numbers or mileages don't make sense
Good catch, and sorry I missed this! I used the dealer oil for about 1,000 miles. At 10,985 total miles on the engine I drained the dealer oil and went back to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30.
So from 10,985-15,311 miles equals 4,326 miles on the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
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I did that 10x a week for 6000 miles and 21 weeks and it still came back at 3%.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
Census is around ESP 0W30. Not all 30 oils are same.
high speed HW driving removes moisture condensation, but does it sufficiently remove fuel in the motor oil?
My T24A-FTS generally runs an oil temp between 180-195F. Even after extended highway driving in hilly terrain, the highest I saw was 204F. This was on 0W-20.
On the high way you may evaporate some water, but more fuel is going in the cylinders. So, even if some gas evaporates from the oil, more gas gets into it at the same time.
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