Switching from 0w-20 to 0w-30 experience

We agree on something!

But I always choose less wear regardless.
That is typically the case with people when you start to listen to the other person. I don’t dispute your experience or knowledge.

You guys all beat me up about filters but the issue is not that I think you are wrong (I agree on the viscosity and filtration points - I am not ignorant) but that I have had some difficulty warranty experiences I would not want to repeat. Others have too. It’s BS I agree but avoidable aggravation. That’s really all. The 4Runner is on 5w30, and has been a while, since I no longer need to deal with the Toyota jockeys with golf shirts. The Ram has a lot of toys so it is under extended warranty with the downside I still have to deal with the dealer for the occasional warranty issue (back glass; wheel speed sensor).

Have a good day.
 
based on experience with mine I want to see what the frame rails and suspension attachment points look like, particularly if the vehicle “lives” anywhere where it snows.
He shows the frame extensively in the video. It looks pristine. I think he’s based in Arizona.

Interestingly he replaced the engine and didn’t just do heads.
 
Great example of this engine dying an early death. Easily could have gone 400-500k with better oil and shorter changes and in general better care like more frequent air filter changes and using Top Tier fuel. Penny wise and pound foolish here.

Wild he put all that money into it with aftermarket parts and did so much work himself but couldn't be bothered to do his own oil changes at 5k miles or use AMSOIL/HPL at 10k if he was committed to long drain intervals.
Do you really think air filter changes and fuel with more additives (assuming this is a port injected engine) would matter?
 
Since he burnt an intake valve, yes I do. He reported he neglected the air filter changes and didn’t clean his K&N filter as well. Lack of maintenance.
I'm still dubious either of those would CAUSE a single burnt valve ... sooo many other potential causes.
 
The Subaru folks and I have been talking about this a lot lately in regards to the FA24F engine which shreds most 0W20 oils and will quickly shear down any Xw-30. The difference being that while the 0w20 lubes do shear down but not as rapidly and drastically as other heavier grade lubes.

I did a little experiment using two quarts of 0W20 (Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy) that I had left over with 3 quarts of 0W30 (Mobil 1 ESP). Even at this mix I'm noticing a bit of lag with the engine and I wouldn't say that fuel economy has taken a big hit but it's still a few MPG short of what I was getting with straight 0w20.

For me I'm going to try using Castrol EDGE Extended Performance and Pennzoil Ultra Platium 0w20 oils next because they have proven to not shear out of grade in this engine during a standard OCI. Otherwise I will likely try out Mobil 1 ESP, HPL, and Redline 0w20s in the future to see what results I get with those products.
Sounds like the solution is a lube with higher quality bases to resist that better.
 
I'm not sure anyone could tell any difference between 0W-20 and 0W-30 - at any temperature even if starting really cold with both still 0W ... "a few MPG" difference is just not possible. It's even illogical.
 
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Since he burnt an intake valve, yes I do. He reported he neglected the air filter changes and didn’t clean his K&N filter as well. Lack of maintenance.
I have never been a fan of K&N filters. If they are oiled improperly you could foul the MAF sensor and if under oiled you could get too much dirt. The additional power claims were always dubious and a good quality air filter is not expensive. The Toyota original ones even have a batting pre filter before you get to the pleated filter. The better Napa ones do too.
 
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I have never been a fan of K&N filters. If they are oiled improperly you could foul the MAF sensor and if under oiled you could get too much dirt. The additional power claims were always dubious and a good quality air filter is not expensive. The Toyota original ones even have a batting pre filter before you get to the pleated filter. The better Napa ones do too.
Yep - maybe, maybe (probably not) this was different with carb engines, but ... and, then only at maximum flow (full throttle) ... again, maybe ...

Great marketing by K&N, though ... Goldman Sachs owns K&N (2016) so ....
 
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If we are talking about the multiple studies @kschachn mentions, it's not really opinion, but generally accepted fact. However, just because it's measurable doesn't make it meaningful. This is precisely what Honda was talking about with respect to "acceptable wear" when they were doing their thinner oil testing.

I very much appreciate the posts you and @kschachn make. I learn from you and him and I always look forward to what you have to say.
 
I have never been a fan of K&N filters. If they are oiled improperly you could foul the MAF sensor and if under oiled you could get too much dirt. The additional power claims were always dubious and a good quality air filter is not expensive. The Toyota original ones even have a batting pre filter before you get to the pleated filter. The better Napa ones do too.
Agree 100%

Twice in one day!!
 
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Since he burnt an intake valve, yes I do. He reported he neglected the air filter changes and didn’t clean his K&N filter as well. Lack of maintenance.
And shows all the dirt in the intake after the filter.
 
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I'm still dubious either of those would CAUSE a single burnt valve ... sooo many other potential causes.
He probably never had the valve clearances checked. Those engines use shims, they are not hydraulic.
 
It's been shown on the dyno that dropping in a K&N air filter can give more HP at WOT, which would really only be useful in a WOT racing situation. People just need to realize filtration efficiency is given up for the bump of performance at WOT.
 
Lots of anecdotes and everyone is entitled to their opinion. A few fellow BITOG members told me it not possible to notice reduced MPGs from a higher viscosity oil but when I switched the oil from 0W-16 to 0W-20 on a '21 Venza hybrid wife immediately commented on the MPG drop even though she did not know about the oil viscosity difference. The Venza is due for an oil change. I will go back to 0W-16 and eagerly await for the wife to say something.
 
Lots of anecdotes and everyone is entitled to their opinion. A few fellow BITOG members told me it not possible to notice reduced MPGs from a higher viscosity oil but when I switched the oil from 0W-16 to 0W-20 on a '21 Venza hybrid wife immediately commented on the MPG drop even though she did not know about the oil viscosity difference. The Venza is due for an oil change. I will go back to 0W-16 and eagerly await for the wife to say something.
Can one wife be both sides of a Double Blind Study? :unsure:
 
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