Switching from 0w-20 to 0w-30 experience

I have a Jeep GC Limited 3.6 V6 and used O-20 till the warranty was over and went to 5-20. Not much difference in the two. Next OCI I will go to 5-30. Here in Fla today at 7AM it was 88 degrees and 94 at noon. My reason for 5-30. I also have a GMC Canyon with a 3.6 in it and between the two motors there doesn't seem to be much difference. Same cam, valve rockers and cam chain araingement is basicly the same. I will now be able to also have one oil for both which is Mobil 1 5-30 changed at 20% or 6000 miles.
 
I have a Jeep GC Limited 3.6 V6 and used O-20 till the warranty was over and went to 5-20. Not much difference in the two. Next OCI I will go to 5-30. Here in Fla today at 7AM it was 88 degrees and 94 at noon. My reason for 5-30. I also have a GMC Canyon with a 3.6 in it and between the two motors there doesn't seem to be much difference. Same cam, valve rockers and cam chain araingement is basicly the same. I will now be able to also have one oil for both which is Mobil 1 5-30 changed at 20% or 6000 miles.
I see 0W20 as a better quality, more robust, with better additive packaged oil vs 5w20.
 
My experience switching to Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 has been awesome so far. Can't wait to rack up some miles and do a UOA. I am still getting great gas mileage, nothing has changed. I am a happy camper.

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I’ve been using Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 for many years and nearly 200k km’s in our 2007 K24 Accord. Our temps here range from -35 C in the winter to +35 in the summer. I’ve never done a UOA, but from others I’ve seen this oil shows good wear numbers. Our Accord runs great and uses almost no oil, 0.1 to 0.2 litres (quarts) in 6000 to 8000 km’s OCI’s.
I would use M1 ESP 0W-30, but it’s pricier, a little harder to find on the store shelf and doesn’t go on sale as often as AFE.
 
Unless you are starting your engine at about minus 35 F, there is no difference in "dry start" (however you choose define that) performance between a 0w-30 and a 5w-30. Lots of things to worry about...but this isn't one of them.
I agree, and if the temperature is not a factor in starting, 10w-30 might even be better as there would be less "shearable" additives to keep the oil thickened at running temperature.
 
I’ve been using Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 for many years and nearly 200k km’s in our 2007 K24 Accord. Our temps here range from -35 C in the winter to +35 in the summer. I’ve never done a UOA, but from others I’ve seen this oil shows good wear numbers. Our Accord runs great and uses almost no oil, 0.1 to 0.2 litres (quarts) in 6000 to 8000 km’s OCI’s.
I would use M1 ESP 0W-30, but it’s pricier, a little harder to find on the store shelf and doesn’t go on sale as often as AFE.
Are you buying it from Canadian Tire? In Ontario they put all of the M1 oils on sale at the same time, so if AFE is on sale then so is EP and ESP, and the stores here have a good amount of stock of ESP.
 
Are you buying it from Canadian Tire? In Ontario they put all of the M1 oils on sale at the same time, so if AFE is on sale then so is EP and ESP, and the stores here have a good amount of stock of ESP.
Yes, Canadian Tire or Walmart. ESP 0W-30 just doesn't seem to be stocked as well as 0W-30 AFE, although ESP 0W-20 is always on the shelf at my local stores.
Just checked my local Canadian Tire 'in stock' selection. 5W30 ESP is listed, but not 0W-30 ESP (in the 4.73 L jug). OW-30 ESP is only available in 1 L containers @ 19.99 each (!) .
 
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2021 Jeep GC 3.6 4x4. Owned since new currently with 87k. Used various brands of 0w20 with Valvoline flavors for the last 20k. Mostly 5-6k intervals. Switched to Amsoil SS 0w-30 for this oil change.

I know this isn’t a laboratory test. But this trip we take from Ohio to Florida is one we take every summer for the last 16 years with the same route without deviation. Once there our vehicle sits for the week and we take the FIL’s van when we go places. So it’s as close to a consistent “real world” experience as I can personally get.

Engine: The 3.6 is relatively noisy as is. With the 0w-30 it sounds less raspy and smoother. I felt no noticeable drag on the engine.

MPG: The cars computer is relatively accurate. The car has the total trip MPG listed at 24.6. I logged my fill ups and by hand it came out to 24 even. Last year with 0w-20 on the same trip the car had it listed at 25 with by hand calculation it was 24.2. So I guess technically it lost a fraction of MPG’s with 0w30 but in my opinion that could be just in the margin of error.

Oil Temperature: With 0w-20 oil temperatures would top out at 199 degree. Usually sitting at 194 most of the time. I don’t ever remember it hitting 200 on these trips. With 0w-30 it sat at 197 most of the trip but would peak at 204.

Oil Pressure: With 0w-20 during idle and cruising it sat at 30 psi and top out at 78 psi under hard acceleration. With 0w30 during idle/cruise it sat at 31-32 psi and top out at 82 psi under hard acceleration.

Oil Usage: During these trips I’d usually “top off” a small negligible amount to bring it back to the top of the full mark. This trip it’s stayed exactly on the same full mark. No top off needed.

With my OCD I researched for months going back and forth on if I should move from a 20 to a 30 weight. With these engines having dry start concerns I landed on 0w30 over a 5w-30. Will it all make a difference in engine life? I have no idea, I sure hope so! Thanks for reading.
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In January of this year I traded my 2020 Grand Cherokee 3.6L for a 2013 Challenger 392. The Grand Cherokee had 202,000 miles on it. Only repair it got in that time was a water pump.

For what it's worth I'm one of those guys that will NOT touch a bottle of 0W20. For a Pentastar engine like that I'd pick up some 5W30 synthetic.
 
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