Super tech full synthetic HM versus Mobil1 HM 5w-30

[LowMilesLesabre]

So, I had decided to go with Supertech full synthetic high mileage for both my Honda CRV and Buick LeSabre. The CRV is a 2015 with a K24 engine.(first year of direct injection.) and the old Ironsides 3800 V6 in the Buick. Walmart here in Ontario has a price promotion on Mobil1 with three jugs for $99 which is a pretty low price for this product here in $CAD. The Supertech is not on sale but its normal price is just a hair under $29 CAD for one jug. (FWIW, it is also available in 10w30 HM full synthetic which is rare up here these days). The 10W-30 weight has traditionally been what I put in the Buick engine. Over the last few years., the mileage we rack up annually is a lot lower than it used to be and so the average OCI for the LeSabre is about 3000 miles every 12 months with the CRV coming in around 4000-4500 miles every year. I’m certainly OK with an annual OCI on the Buick because that engine is the most tolerant and forgiving when it comes to motor oil I’ve ever owned. However, even though we are logging less than 5000 miles annually on the CRV, I still am changing the oil on that one twice a year given the short tripping and cold weather trips that impact DI engines as I think the Honda is harder on oil because of this.

The real question I am pondering is whether the Mobil1 is worth the extra four dollars per jug over the Supertech. I don’t mind spending the extra coin if it would actually make a real world difference or if my concern either way is as Shakespeare once wrote, “Much ado about nothing“. Each of these oils, similar to the Kirkland synthetic that I have used before each meet the latest current standards which matter a lot more for the Honda than they do the Buick. Given the relatively short OCIs, what ‘sayeth’ the BITOG community?

 

[KCJeep]

The difference is the price of a gallon of gas and you are changing annually. Get the Mobil.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

For such a small price difference, get the M1

 

[Passport1]

“Much ado about nothing“

The badinage and minutiae on BITOG is fascinating but you (and the Bard) captured the essence of it.

 

[LowMilesLesabre]

Oh yes, I agree that the price difference is quite small and I’m not being a cheapskate. As I mentioned originally, I don’t mind paying extra, but when I noticed that each of these two choices meet the exact same specification standards, is it like buying store brand cookies versus the national brand? Or should I infer from your suggestions that the Mobil1 would “exceed” these latest strict standards beyond what the Supertech product would? I’m not disagreeing so much as wanting to get a clear understanding of why you think the Mobil1 would be worth ordering. That product would be something I would order online and have delivered, but that’s no big deal because I’m not in a hurry and the snow here is still melting and so I will probably be actually getting these oils changed in another three or four weeks or so. And as mentioned before, my greatest concern is not the incredibly robust engine in the Buick, but more of the DI engine in the Honda.

 

[Starving Electrician]

What I would say is go with SuperTech. It's made by Warren and has been shown to be a good product at a good price. The M1 may well be better but since you are changing the oil more often to get ahead of dilution issues you won't see much if any advantage from the better M1. The M1 probably does hold up better on extended OCI's but you very wisely are changing the oil early for a good reason. So you would be spending more on the M1 for nothing essentially.

I also have a GDI K24. I also change the oil early (4,000 miles), and run 5w-30 to head off the dilution issue. I run QS, ST, Napa, Kirkland, and whatever other house brand synthetic. I have a 2013 Accord with a k24w1 it has 235,000 miles on it and runs great and this is how I've handled oil changes since I got it with 60,000 on it.

 

[webfors]

So, I had decided to go with Supertech full synthetic high mileage for both my Honda CRV and Buick LeSabre. The CRV is a 2015 with a K24 engine.(first year of direct injection.) and the old Ironsides 3800 V6 in the Buick. Walmart here in Ontario has a price promotion on Mobil1 with three jugs for $99 which is a pretty low price for this product here in $CAD. The Supertech is not on sale but its normal price is just a hair under $29 CAD for one jug. (FWIW, it is also available in 10w30 HM full synthetic which is rare up here these days). The 10W-30 weight has traditionally been what I put in the Buick engine. Over the last few years., the mileage we rack up annually is a lot lower than it used to be and so the average OCI for the LeSabre is about 3000 miles every 12 months with the CRV coming in around 4000-4500 miles every year. I’m certainly OK with an annual OCI on the Buick because that engine is the most tolerant and forgiving when it comes to motor oil I’ve ever owned. However, even though we are logging less than 5000 miles annually on the CRV, I still am changing the oil on that one twice a year given the short tripping and cold weather trips that impact DI engines as I think the Honda is harder on oil because of this.

The real question I am pondering is whether the Mobil1 is worth the extra four dollars per jug over the Supertech. I don’t mind spending the extra coin if it would actually make a real world difference or if my concern either way is as Shakespeare once wrote, “Much ado about nothing“. Each of these oils, similar to the Kirkland synthetic that I have used before each meet the latest current standards which matter a lot more for the Honda than they do the Buick. Given the relatively short OCIs, what ‘sayeth’ the BITOG community?

Zero difference with that OCI in that engine and use case if you’re using a Dexos1G3 licensed oil of brand A or B. The van has the highest OCI and it’s on ST, if that means anything to ya

But the real questions is, which one makes you feel better and is that feeling worth the $ difference.

 

[Lawnfella]

You won’t know the difference neither will your engine. I’m a Supertech fan since it meets all the same specs

 

[Carlostrece]

If the OP is concerned about fuel dilution, wouldn't it be good to avoid thinner 5w30 oils and opt for thicker 5w30 oils?

I don't know the specs for Supertec HM Syn 5w30. Could someone post them?

Comparison 5w30 viscosity at KV100 (100C or 212F) based on manufacturers' published data:

Valvoline Maxlife Syn 10.7
*Valvoline Maxlife Blend 11
* Valvoline Full Syn EP HM 11
* Pennzoil Platinum HM Syn 11.4
Pennzoil HM Synthetic 10.5
* Pennzoil HM Blend 11.7
Quaker State HM Syn 10.8
*Quaker State HM Blend 11.1
Mobil One HM EP Syn 10 (thin for a 5w30, very thin for a HM 5w30)
*Castrol Edge HM Syn 11.3
Amsoil HM syn?
Supertec HM Syn ?

A 5w30 synthetic with a KV100 viscosity of less than 11 cSt is (IMO) too thin to be ideal for a HM oil. Also too thin if you're concerned about fuel dilution. It's ideal for it to be 11.5 to 12 for HM and/or for fuel dilution. A viscosity of 11 (medium) is ideal for non HM 5w30 oils. For a 5w30 HM oil 11 is less than ideal for syn, but acceptable. For a 5w30 HM Blend 11 is dandy, though higher would be even better. IMO

I'm currently using 5w30 Maxlife Blend with 11 cSt in my 97 Buick 3800, which has 105K miles on it. I'm happy with Maxlife Blend, but am considering using any of those listed above that have cSt above 11.

11 is the middle of grade 30 spec. So less than 11 is thinner than average. Greater than 11 is thicker than average, and that's for non HM 5w30. I think a HM 5w30 should ideally be above 11. IMO

I think a HM oil benefits from being thicker to reduce leaks and compensate for greater tolerances due to wear. A thicker oil would also help compensate for fuel dilution.

Edited in Later: It was just brought to my attention that the OP changed from 0w20 to 5w30 HM oil in a HM Honda CRV that's spec'd for 0w20. I misread the OP because I thought he's looking for 5w30 HM for an old Buick LeSabre 3800.

However, my info above is still (indirectly) relevant because the OP could use my info to choose a thicker 5w20 HM oil or thinner 5w30 HM oil.

 

[Starving Electrician]

If the OP is concerned about fuel dilution, wouldn't it be good to avoid thinner 5w30 oils and opt for thicker 5w30 oils?

I don't know the specs for Supertec HM Syn 5w30. Could someone post them?

Comparison 5w30 viscosity at KV100 (100C or 212F) based on manufacturers' published data:

Valvoline Maxlife Syn 10.7
*Valvoline Maxlife Blend 11
* Valvoline Full Syn EP HM 11
* Pennzoil Platinum HM Syn 11.4
Pennzoil HM Synthetic 10.5
* Pennzoil HM Blend 11.7
Quaker State HM Syn 10.8
*Quaker State HM Blend 11.1
Mobil One HM EP Syn 10 (thin even before fuel dilution)
*Castrol Edge HM Syn 11.3
Supertec HM Syn ?

11 is the middle of grade 30 spec. So less than 11 is thinner than average. Greater than 11 is thicker than average. I think a HM oil benefits from being thicker to reduce leaks and compensate for greater tolerances due to wear. A thicker oil would also help compensate for fuel dilution.

The factory recommended viscosity for the engine in question is 0w20. So by using a 5w30 it's already a thicker oil to compensate. I would think even a thinner 5w30 is still helpful although I do see your point.

 

[Carlostrece]

The factory recommended viscosity for the engine in question is 0w20. So by using a 5w30 it's already a thicker oil to compensate. I would think even a thinner 5w30 is still helpful although I do see your point.

I thought the OP was looking for a 5w30 for an old Buick LeSabre 3800 engine, which calls for 10w30 or 5w30. I didn't read the OP well enough.

However, the info I posted is still relevant in a general sense. He could use the info I posted to choose a thick 5w20 HM or thin 5w30 HM synthetic.

 

[Carlostrece]

My neighbor has an old CRV she uses 5w20 Valvoline Maxlife HM Blend in, which works well for her. I think she could use 5w30 Maxlife Syn, but the 5w20 Blend costs less and works fine.

Any thick 5w20 or thin 5w30 HM oil is good for an old CRV. Oil brand is irrelevant. It's the viscosity specs that matter, IMO. I suggest downloading the spec sheet and comparing viscosity at KV40 (cold start) and KV100 (op temp 212F).

 

[Starving Electrician]

My neighbor has an old CRV she uses 5w20 Valvoline Maxlife HM Blend in, which works well for her. I think she could use 5w30 Maxlife Syn, but the 5w20 Blend costs less and works fine.

Any thick 5w20 or thin 5w30 HM oil is good for an old CRV. Oil brand is irrelevant. It's the viscosity specs that matter, IMO. I suggest downloading the spec sheet and comparing viscosity at KV40 (cold start) and KV100 (op temp 212F).

It's the GDI dilution issues in cold weather you have to be concerned with on GDI K24s. I full agree brand is meaningless so my advice was the ST as it's less expensive. I have a GDI K24 with 236,000 ish miles on it. All on shorter OCI's on house brand oils that are 5w30.

The Buick with the 3800 in it isn't picky on oil and is a very durable engine. So I focused on the Honda. As GDI K24s are great engines but oil dilution is an issue.

TLDR I agree with you 100% I was just noting 5w30 is already thicker than the specd 0w20 for the Honda at least.

 

[Carlostrece]

What does TLDR mean?

 

[Starving Electrician]

What does TLDR mean?

"Too long didn't read" it is just a way of saying to summarize.

 

[ripcord]

Let me be, hopefully, the last to say, "It doesn't matter!!!!!" With as few miles as you put on your cars, any certified, I repeat, any certified oil remotely close to the correct viscosity will give great service and your cars will rust to bits on those fine Ontario winter streets before the oil choice makes a lick of difference.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Kudos for the frequent services. I will say this, our beloved '06 TSX has about 230K on the clock. Lived on under 5K services on M1. Checking the oil is a waste of time; that engine is perfect.

 

[dnewton3]

The real question I am pondering is whether the Mobil1 is worth the extra four dollars per jug over the Supertech. I don’t mind spending the extra coin if it would actually make a real world difference..... Given the relatively short OCIs, what ‘sayeth’ the BITOG community?

For OCIs 5k miles or less, in those applications, the engine wear rates will NEVER, NOT EVER, demonstrate any statistically significant difference between a ST lube and any other.

Save your money.

 

[tolian21]

when you buying Mobil1 you are also paying premium for the name and all the advertising they do. SuperTech has no advertising costs.

 

[Starving Electrician]

Kudos for the frequent services. I will say this, our beloved '06 TSX has about 230K on the clock. Lived on under 5K services on M1. Checking the oil is a waste of time; that engine is perfect

Your 06 TSX is a similar near identical engine with one key difference the lack of gasoline direct injection. (That is aside from the upgrades to make more power). The K24 is a phenomenal engine but bad advice to say don't bother checking the oil. All engines start to burn oil at some point and keeping an eye on the level is always a good idea. Especially in a cold climate with frequenct short trips on a GDI engine as you will see the level start to rise. Which means the oil needs to be change immediately regardless of miles. As that oil is experiencing gasoline dilution which is a death sentence for an engine if left alone.