Sunoco 110 Octane Racing Gas ?

Yikes! "I lost because of limp mode".... I love that excuse, I'll use it next time a Tesla beats me...

Try some Sunoco Optima 95 octane or VP Racing C9 96 octane. They are very similar fuels, non oxygenated, no MMT/MTBE, and both outperform their octane rating. The fuel won't go bad on you either. So storing it for a few years is just fine. The C9 is a bit higher octane at 96.8 R+M/2.

Both run crisply.
 
IMG_0853.webp
 
Man, I wish I could find gas near me that’s leaded, 95+ octane, and ethanol free for my ‘63 Cadillac. Owner’s manual specifies a minimum of 100 RON octane, so that comes out to more than 94. No hardened valve seats and 10.5:1 compression from factory. The best I can do locally is 90 E0 unleaded.
IMG_5109.webp
 
Absolutely this thread has gone WAY off course.
Racial/ethnic slurs and religious talk are, without any doubt, completely unacceptable on BITOG and will be dealt with swiftly and severely.

More than 15 posts have been deleted and several of you earned warnings. You all know better. Grow up.
 
Last edited:
The thread has been reopened.
Those of you who contributed to the problem are banned from this thread.
Discuss the racing fuel, or stay out of it.
 
Sunoco 110 makes a great octane booster for engines around the house or old cars that are emission exempt. We used it Midwest track racing until GTX came out. Now it's Green E15 or GTX. Also the problem with high octane pump fuel is what was is the tank before or old gas just like premium gasoline when fresh it's awesome but it can go bad sitting in the tank.
 
Race gas 110 is LL100 Aviation base stock with additives. It has 1/2 the lead as the high lead version of AV gas so they call it LL or Low Lead 100. Do not let that name fool you because it has a lot of lead in it. It has twice as much lead that was in old regular leaded car gas. Do not get it on your skin because the lead soaks right thru your skin and into your blood stream. It will fowl oxygen sensors and catalytic converters so never put it in a modern vehicle. Some of these new small generators have catalytic converters as well so know what you are putting it in if you are going to use it. I found that LL 100 works just as well as race gas in my application. That engine has high supercharged boost, and no oxygen sensor. The advantage of the high octane is that you can tune it on a dyno for maximum power by adjusting timing and fuel ratio without knock. On that engine I use I could probably tune it to about 240 wheel hp on 93 octane. With LL100 I can tune to 285 hp without knock. These high compression or boosted engines are the only applications that this fuel helps. In anything else the engine will make less power. I put some in a 4 hp Yamaha dinghy outboard. It ran terrible. I put in 93 and it ran OK but was certainly the fastest when it was run on 87 like it said to run in the manual.

If race gas is made from LL 100 base stock then what makes it different? Without looking to argue or going into the weeds of chemistry LL100 is for aviation so it cannot rot and it must be able to soak up and burn any moisture that gets in it. It does not have oxygenators in it because oxygenators will rot the fuel over time.There are reports of airplanes that have sat in hangers for 20 years and the fuel is still perfectly fine. It does not go bad. It has very low or light aromatic compounds and does not evaporate as easy. Missing those light components does not let engines start or idle as well as on pump gas. Think of it as being heavy like a diesel fuel in that it does not evaporate or flash burn as well. I use it in pressure washers and in an old tractor that I rarely use. Those things can sit for years and fire right up with the gas that is in them. Same with the chainsaws. Race fuel has additive to give it those better burning qualities and even more octane. Race gas will rot and clog because it does not control moisture and have fuel stabilizers as much as the LL100 additive. Instead it has octane boosters and rot prone oxygenators to make race engines with high compression rip.
 
Back
Top Bottom