Sudden violent vibration from rear end.

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06 Escalade. I'm driving today and the truck starts to vibrate violently. I could smell asbestos. Limped home to investigate. The rear parking brake shoe disintegrated. The rotor was loose and slammed up against the caliper bracket. Ate up the pads. I put new new rear rotors and pads on the truck 2 years ago. Everything was fine. But obviously, the parking brake was dragging for a long time.

Do I need to replace more than shoes?
Will the rotor still be good?
Is the play in the rear axle normal?
 
Agreed - nothing out of the ordinary there.

That in/out play is normal for a semifloat c-clip axle. I don't see any play from a bad wheel bearing.
 
Originally Posted by Cujet
Play normal. Just make sure to reset the parking brake cable and replace the shoes.


I won't be able to get the rotor back on without adjusting something?
 
I've never replaced one before. Is this what holds it on?

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[Linked Image]


This is the parking brake hardware kit for your truck, so I suspect those little bolts may be related.

Typically you drop out all the old junk then check the other side for how it's supposed to go, when you're doing drum brakes.
 
I dealt with this on a 2000 Chevrolet 1500 a while back. The clip that holds the shoe is different (updated?) than the original style clips. The new style clips have wings on them. The dealer didn't have the shoes so we installed a set of Duralast shoes from Autozone. I think they were around $20 for the pair. We found the drivers side rear parking brake shoe to be chewed up when we removed the rotor as part of a brake job on that truck. It wasn't yet showing any symptoms of having a problem, but it wasn't far from a complete failure. All pads, shoes and rotors were replaced.
 
You are lucky the backings plates are not rotted away, that is really common on these in the rust belt, I have done quite a few over the years. GM sells new plates with shoes already mounted.
Its better (almost mandatory) to use new drums with these GM horse shoes as IIRC these do not have any access to the star wheel adjuster once the drum is one. The way you get your initial adjustment is measure I.D of the drum and adjust the O.D of the horse shoe a couple of thousands under that so is a firm fit but not restricted fit. I use a 12" caliper, it works fine but there is a tool for this if you don't own one that long.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3377-Brake-Resetting-Gauge/dp/B0002SQUJ0

Some play is normal however I have reduced somewhat it by installing new C clips on the axles when I had to pull the axles anyway to replace the backing plates. A a few of them the C clip was well worn on the axle side and it made a significant difference. When doing that job its good to swap the axle seals also.
When I was doing more of these I would just buy the new GM plates (due to rot, otherwise I did just the shoes and clips) with shoes mounted, 2x rotor/drums, 2 axle seals, 2 C clips, lube and gasket and do a complete job that would last for a long time

This is an 06 so I am not sure if they even use the same type of backing plate. It will be similar with an aluminum piece and the metal shield behind it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Trav
You are lucky the backings plates are not rotted away, that is really common on these in the rust belt, I have done quite a few over the years. GM sells new plates with shoes already mounted.
Its better (almost mandatory) to use new drums with these GM horse shoes as IIRC these do not have any access to the star wheel adjuster once the drum is one. The way you get your initial adjustment is measure I.D of the drum and adjust the O.D of the horse shoe a couple of thousands under that so is a firm fit but not restricted fit. I use a 12" caliper, it works fine but there is a tool for this if you don't own one that long.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3377-Brake-Resetting-Gauge/dp/B0002SQUJ0

Some play is normal however I have reduced somewhat it by installing new C clips on the axles when I had to pull the axles anyway to replace the backing plates. A a few of them the C clip was well worn on the axle side and it made a significant difference. When doing that job its good to swap the axle seals also.
When I was doing more of these I would just buy the new GM plates (due to rot, otherwise I did just the shoes and clips) with shoes mounted, 2x rotor/drums, 2 axle seals, 2 C clips, lube and gasket and do a complete job that would last for a long time

This is an 06 so I am not sure if they even use the same type of backing plate. It will be similar with an aluminum piece and the metal shield behind it.

I found kit. Is it what you were referring to?
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/...sembly,,fca8c30d86af33389ef0f00ce009f99f
 
To get the truck in running in a couple hours I went with the only parking brake shoe I could find locally. The Orielly "BrakeBest Select Parking Brake Shoe
Part # 781". Fit OK, nothing needed adjustment. It had one fastener described above. With wings. But there was only 1 per kit and the bolt was a different size. So I put the old fasteners back on. Which fit nicely into a groove.I sprayed the mechanisms with WD40 select silicon spray, seemed to function ok. No scraping during a test drive.

Putting the pads back on I noticed something else. The same wheel that had the shoe disintegrate. A Raybestos proact pad and coated rotor set that is 2 years old. Approx 25k on the set. In addition to heavy rust on the rotor one pad, the one against the pistons was toast. Worn down crooked. So I need to order pads. Thinking about getting rid of the whole Raybestos set. I reapplied sil-glyde to the bolts. Didn't seem frozen. Pads moved freely. Any ideas what might be wrong?

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Just wondering if extending the caliper pistons, pull back the boot and lube outer wall of the piston with Sil glyde?
 
When the pads are wearing uneven, the first thing I check is if the pads slide freely in the bracket. If not clean under the pad clips and the ears of the pads themselves with a file, wire wheel, or scotch brite roloc disc. Get it down to bare metal.
I lube under the clips with antisieze compound or caliper grease, and a little on the pad ears also.

Check the caliper pistons to make sure they push back into the caliper without any resistance or binding.
Also make sure the caliper slide pins are free of rust and lubed properly and dont bind.
 
Originally Posted by cronk
When the pads are wearing uneven, the first thing I check is if the pads slide freely in the bracket. If not clean under the pad clips and the ears of the pads themselves with a file, wire wheel, or scotch brite roloc disc. Get it down to bare metal.
I lube under the clips with antisieze compound or caliper grease, and a little on the pad ears also.

Check the caliper pistons to make sure they push back into the caliper without any resistance or binding.
Also make sure the caliper slide pins are free of rust and lubed properly and dont bind.

All 4 calipers on that truck have a decent amount of resistance. Especially in back. Hard slow cranking. Dual piston.
 
Originally Posted by BlakeB
I dealt with this on a 2000 Chevrolet 1500 a while back. The clip that holds the shoe is different (updated?) than the original style clips. The new style clips have wings on them. The dealer didn't have the shoes so we installed a set of Duralast shoes from Autozone. I think they were around $20 for the pair. We found the drivers side rear parking brake shoe to be chewed up when we removed the rotor as part of a brake job on that truck. It wasn't yet showing any symptoms of having a problem, but it wasn't far from a complete failure. All pads, shoes and rotors were replaced.


I just checked, and it would appear my truck had the upgraded shoes which was 2 clips, no wings. According to these sites anyways. I don't know how much it matters..

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/Page_P...amp;PNC=e46f2afb11d557f0a0b633d761f92de6
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline....Cam-and-Shoe-Brake/3090808/88967122.html
https://www.group1autoparts.com/oem-parts/gm-s-lining-kit-88967122
https://www.newgmparts.com/oem-parts/gm-parking-brake-shoe-2-required-per-vehicle-88967122-88967122
 
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