Subaru Rear Wheel Bearings: How difficult are they?

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As they say, no good deed goes unpunished. I performed a pro-bono 120K service on my next-door neighbor's 14 Forester and found some free labor upsells, one of which is a L/R wheel bearing.

This is CA car with zero signs of rust, but I have heard horror stories about removing these things.



Does anyone have any tips for me? Or do I have nothing to worry about since this is a CA car...
 
Did the backing plate TSB apply to the SJ? @Trav has posted it before
It does, but the backing plate costs as much as a new SKF bearing.

The “bad” bearing and backing plate made it 116K and the owner doesn’t plan to keep it for more than 40-50K.
 
I was wondering if you could use the same trick as a stuck wheel to hub. Loosen the 4 retaining bolts and then shake the car or drive slowly in a circle to break it loose. 🤔
 
I was wondering if you could use the same trick as a stuck wheel to hub. Loosen the 4 retaining bolts and then shake the car or drive slowly in a circle to break it loose. 🤔
I am moderately intrigued by this idea:

IMG_5778.jpeg
 
The hub buster should work okay on this one but another trick for the not too rusted ones is either loosen the bolts a few threads and hit them with an air hammer crosswise or remove the bolts and install some slightly longer ones to beat on, I always replace the bolts on these things as many times unless someone has done them before they need a rocket socket because they are undersized with rust where I am.
 
This?

He recently reco'd some Amazon alternatives.

They're pretty simple, not like there's really moving parts or anything like a Dual 80. I recently ordered this one, and I think it was the one @Trav linked directly.


I was in no rush so opted for AWD at $47.82. I see there's presently one at $43.17; biggest risk is that the misc hardware might be missing or bag torn open (mine was fine)
 
He recently reco'd some Amazon alternatives.

They're pretty simple, not like there's really moving parts or anything like a Dual 80. I recently ordered this one, and I think it was the one @Trav linked directly.


I was in no rush so opted for AWD at $47.82. I see there's presently one at $43.17; biggest risk is that the misc hardware might be missing or bag torn open (mine was fine)
Oops, I ordered the LTI earlier before seeing this. I’ll see if I can cancel…
 
Lisle 40100 and 39300 are also on order. If one of the 3 doesn't take it off in 5 min, I'm throwing in the towel.
 
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Lisle 40100 and 39300 are also on order. If one of the 3 don't take it off in 5 min, I'm throwing in the towel.
What was that "song" a number of years ago where the guy just talks, giving advice? The graduation song or something?

Anyway, he says to live in New York for a year, but leave before it makes you hard. And to live in California for a year, but leave before it makes you......soft. :D
 
Cancelled the other one and ordered the one in your link, thanks!
Just inspect the box as soon as it arrives. If the brain trusts throw it in a flimsy box with no padding it can eject itself relatively easily. Mine comes in at a couple ounces over 12.5 lbs. Since it's intended to survive a steady beating from a sledge it's a simple formula: more steel = mo betta
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I was wondering if you could use the same trick as a stuck wheel to hub. Loosen the 4 retaining bolts and then shake the car or drive slowly in a circle to break it loose. 🤔
Nor gonna lie, I've seen many wheel bearings and other automotive parts rusted so good you could take all the bolts out and drive it 50,000 miles and it'd still be rock solidly connected.
 
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