Subaru oil filter on a Honda?
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You should find out the filter part number and see if they show up in the Rock Auto listings for filters for your car, also Google "applications" and "fitment" along with the part number. EDIT: Sounds like Glenda can answer.
I wonder if these filters adhere to The Beer Rule?
What's undeniably the best kind of beer?
FREE beer.
I wonder if these filters adhere to The Beer Rule?
What's undeniably the best kind of beer?
FREE beer.
You can also look up the filter specs on the Wix website. They will give you the size of the gasket, bypass settings, etc and you can make an informed decision from there.
For example, if you look up 3593a (Common Fram filter part number) you come up with this WIX part number:
Ignore the performance specs, just look for the thread pitch, bypass pressure, and gasket dimensions.
Here's the specs for a 7317 sized filter.
Gasket size, thread pitch, bypass pressures, all match up....in my mind, that makes those two cans interchangeable, provided you have the physical space for the larger filter.
For example, if you look up 3593a (Common Fram filter part number) you come up with this WIX part number:
Ignore the performance specs, just look for the thread pitch, bypass pressure, and gasket dimensions.
Here's the specs for a 7317 sized filter.
Gasket size, thread pitch, bypass pressures, all match up....in my mind, that makes those two cans interchangeable, provided you have the physical space for the larger filter.
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*affect* is the vb.
Are these Black TR or Blue Framalicious ?
It also appears Subaru spec a different ADBV rubber - likely NBR vs the Honda's silicone rubber.
Unless I am driving like a nut with a stick shift, I would prefer the lower bypass threshold - If it wasn't a dirty dome end bypass. Boo!
Personally I would not recommend doing it though I can't stop you from doing anything you choose to do.
My understanding is that Honda has a lower bypass setting because they do not want their engines to be starved at all of oil flow whereas Subaru utilizes a positive displacement oil pump which effectively forces oil through filter media.
My understanding is that Honda has a lower bypass setting because they do not want their engines to be starved at all of oil flow whereas Subaru utilizes a positive displacement oil pump which effectively forces oil through filter media.
The Honda engine doesn’t have a positive displacement oil pump?
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Is it worth the savings to use the filters? I was disappointed in the microscope media view of the Roki filters on WCW.
Hey thats's ZeeOSix's line!
and my line is:
"Once you run up to the pump bypass relief it's constant pressure at the filter inlet"
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My Honda has a positive displacement oil pump so it should be able to handle a Subaru oil filter
What oil are you running and it what temperatures? I imagine 0w20 with a 60F+ cold start, I can't see the higher bypass pressure mattering much, as it may not be bypassing unless you rev the engine up quite high when the oil is still cold.
If you are doing lots of starts in -20F, with 5W30 conventional oil, then the high bypass may slow down flow even more?
If you are doing lots of starts in -20F, with 5W30 conventional oil, then the high bypass may slow down flow even more?
First of all I've created a thread to ask the same question in the past:
Do some more research on this site because I know other people have talked about this and everyone knows that I'm typically wrong about everything and I will admit it. I try to not to be afflicted with the sickness of correctness and "look at me look at me I'm right and you're wrong" vainglory. There are many people on this website who seem to think that they are smarter than others because all they can do is try to make others look stupid.
It is not about Honda engines having a positive displacement pump per se but rather that they would prefer a constant and uninterrupted oil flow so much so that if it comes from oil bypassing the full flow filter media, so be it.
Subaru on the other hand would rather have the oil flow forced through the full flow oil filter to the point to where it only bypasses if it is absolutely necessary.
I'm not here to answer questions beyond that because I'm just sharing what I understand from my recollection. Do whatever you like with whatever oil filter.
All engines use a positive displacement oil pump.
The downside of a filter with a real high bypass valve setting is that if the filter does get clogged enough, or the dP gets to the bypass setting for whatever reason (insane pump flow with thicker oil), then it puts the oil pump farther into pressure relief and pump volume flow reduction before the filter bypass valve opens up.
The upside to a filter with a real high bypass valve setting is that the filter is much less likely to go into bypass.
If it's an old fashioned spring loaded bypass valve in the pump, then it will still have some pressure and output flow creap even when the pump is in pressure relief. It's possible that a pump with some sophisticated ECU control system might be "constant pressure" pump once in relief if the computer control system is really good.
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"Slow down flow" in this case could only mean a reduction in oil flow from the pump. That can only happen if the oil pump is into pressure relief.
I appreciate you always explaining a position rather than just asking questions but not actually sharing any insights, you are banned from my ignore list.
An additional thought I had was that the Honda OEM oil filter is made to use on two consecutive OCIs and this is coming from Honda directly. The Honda recommended OCI is not to exceed 10,000 miles, so they allow for the OEM oil filter to be used for up to 20,000 miles which would suggest that it may become saturated and bypass events are more likely to occur. To accommodate for that likelihood they have set the bypass valve to a lower setting.
What that would mean however is that Honda is intentionally planning for an oil filter to no longer filter, just so they can permit the owner to leave the filter in the engine for two OCI. I would suggest that Honda recommends leaving it there is because the filter is unlikely to be clogged after those two OCI. This would correlate to my experience where I have never seen a filter come anywhere near to being clogged with debris, even on my old “sludge monster” 1MZ-FE.
I doubt a manufacturer is really going to suggest that an owner leave a part on the vehicle after it has ceased to perform its function.
The pumps do wear and increase internal leakage over time, and with more pressure, there would be more internal leakage, but that is more of a low viscosity oil at high temperatures, problem I guess?
On a cold start probably even a quite worn oil pump doesn't have much blow-by, and even less with higher viscosity oil, but don't thinner oils get to the top end of the engine faster than higher viscosity oil on cold starts? That might be more to do with smaller oil passages not flowing nearly as well as the larger ones at very high oil viscosity?
With older tractors I find you get more hydraulic pressure in the rams with higher rpms, when you are trying to lift something a bit too heavy like popping out a stump, but that might just the blow off valve opening progressively and allowing higher pressures with higher flow?
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Do any Honda dealers leave the filter on when they change the oil? “Your car is ready sir, next time we will change the filter?” I don’t have any data as I never went to one. I have a suspicion they change every time. Some makes don’t say use filter twice in the manual, some do. For one thing they would have to have some kind of record from the last oil change to know if the filter was on it’s first use. I don’t think they will spend the time in that research.