Tony,
Looks great! That filter looks VERY Sturdy... Nice job...
Looks great! That filter looks VERY Sturdy... Nice job...
String wound cartridge filter for bypass ?
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Originally posted by Bill Plock:
[QB] Here are some pics of the OilGuard element I recently changed out of my 03 Duramax Diesel after 20k miles of use. Oil was Delvac-1 and changed at 5k-mile intervals along with the full flow filter (Baldwin B1441). Note that the center of the strings are black with soot. Could this indicate the oil is following a spiral path through individual strings from the outer to inner layer of the filter?
Just a theory nothing scientific but I would think if you took at a cross section of an individual piece of string you would find that the center is wound tighter due to the spiral weave ie; a more restrictive surface area, than you would find on the outer edges, therefore the center would offer a higher degree of filtration than the surrounding area.
Soot being very fine in nature would then flow past the holes on the looser outer edges and caught by the tighter center area. This coupled with the fact that the oil is being injected under pressure thru the filter (ball of string) it would collectively work from the most restrictive areas to the less restrictive ones.
Just my two cents worth
BTW I'm using the Oil Guard bypass also. When it's ready to be changed I'll cut the filter open to see if the same thing is happening.
[ April 23, 2005, 08:08 PM: Message edited by: Old Guy ]
Tony B
Nice looking install you did with your bypass filter. It looks to be a very high quality unit. Is the whole unit made of stainless, or is the head cast?
Nice looking install you did with your bypass filter. It looks to be a very high quality unit. Is the whole unit made of stainless, or is the head cast?
The whole unit is stainless,including the head--I made sure of that before ordering from my supplier. There is a nickel plated brass- I beleive- also available but I thought the stainless was the best route to go. I also used high temp hydraulic hoses for complete piece of mind.
I am real interested in getting some particle counts on my next UOA's especially since I am using the .5 micron filters. It would be great if some one had before and after particle counts for a bypass cotton wound element to note any effect the filter has on the real world oil numbers.
I put 3-4,000 miles a week on my truck so I can generate some quick numbers for UOA's and post use filter exams. What I am trying to shoot for is 15,000-20,000 mile oil changes using Delo 400 and LC and Auto-rx maintenance dose with the help of the bypass. So far I can safely run 8-9,000 on the oil with LC and just the full-flow filters with lots of life left in the oil. I just have not gone longer because of my own emotional feeling of the oil being at the end of its life-even though the UOA's say different. After enough of them I will slowly get comfortable with the longer runs.
T
The whole unit is stainless,including the head--I made sure of that before ordering from my supplier. There is a nickel plated brass- I beleive- also available but I thought the stainless was the best route to go. I also used high temp hydraulic hoses for complete piece of mind.
I am real interested in getting some particle counts on my next UOA's especially since I am using the .5 micron filters. It would be great if some one had before and after particle counts for a bypass cotton wound element to note any effect the filter has on the real world oil numbers.
I put 3-4,000 miles a week on my truck so I can generate some quick numbers for UOA's and post use filter exams. What I am trying to shoot for is 15,000-20,000 mile oil changes using Delo 400 and LC and Auto-rx maintenance dose with the help of the bypass. So far I can safely run 8-9,000 on the oil with LC and just the full-flow filters with lots of life left in the oil. I just have not gone longer because of my own emotional feeling of the oil being at the end of its life-even though the UOA's say different. After enough of them I will slowly get comfortable with the longer runs.
T
Here are some pics of the OilGuard element I recently changed out of my 03 Duramax Diesel after 20k miles of use. Oil was Delvac-1 and changed at 5k-mile intervals along with the full flow filter (Baldwin B1441). Note that the center of the strings are black with soot. Could this indicate the oil is following a spiral path through individual strings from the outer to inner layer of the filter?
OilGuard Filter Cross section
More Pics
OilGuard Filter Cross section
More Pics
OldGuy,
Thanks for the input ..Your explanation makes sense ... Thinking back I also noticed that as individual strings were unraveled the cotton fibers were a uniform gray color. This lines up with your theory that the soot is more concentrated in the center because the sting in denser there. In any case these filters are definitely removing soot from the oil. I’ll be interested to here what you find when you cut open your OilGuard.
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You diesel guys should be able to find enough room for the bigger filter container. The 20" canister can handles full flow @ 1um in my 3.0 Mitsu ..but might be a stretch for you diesel folks. It's available in the same ss as the 10" unit. The filters are about the same cost and are available in 3.5" (in either 10" or 20") if you know where to shop.
That's essentially what this is:
That's essentially what this is:
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It's been taken off for the time being, Tim. We're conducting a bypass valve test with various sizes of PureOne filters just to see if the bypass valve opens with any frequency. I really didn't want to take it off, and could have run it in tandem with the PureOne ..but without any accumulation it would have kinda defeated object of the test. My oil never got dirty ..period. I was waiting and it never did happen. Hopefully I'll get it back on before I get side tracked into another test. I hope to incorporate some oil/coolant heat exchangers that I have an abundance of ..as well as air/oil exchangers and thermostats that I'd like to try out.
I haven't had this much fun in a long time.
the test.
I haven't had this much fun in a long time.
the test.
yeah , sometimes i have thought about taking the motorguard I have hooked up to my car...take the outlet flow and hook it to a Gulf Coast filter that the Motorguard replaced...I wonder how if I could go longer then 44000 miles betwenn oil changes.........hmmmm I am on vacation next week ........need a project.....
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btw- Tony B, that's a great price on a SS canister ..even in that length. That's about the cost of the the 304 body with nickel-brass head. These canisters lend themselves to more mounting options than the larger diameter filters in some circumstances.
From McMaster-Carr:
From McMaster-Carr:
Yes that is what I thought too and that is why I offered to get one for anyone who wanted one. I beleive the all SS are normally around $300 or more from most suppliers.quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
btw- Tony B, that's a great price on a SS canister ..even in that length. That's about the cost of the the 304 body with nickel-brass head. These canisters lend themselves to more mounting options than the larger diameter filters in some circumstances.
From McMaster-Carr:
I thought of a great idea! What if we reuse the SS core of the filter and rewind it with paper off of a paper towel roll and create our own cellulose type filters? To make it better the ends would be sealed (dipped) in a glue and allowed to dry before installation.
What do you tink? Will it be better than the cotton string filters?
T
What do you tink? Will it be better than the cotton string filters?
T
I've tried to rewind toilet paper once. What happened was it was very time consuming and sloppy. IMO you would need a machine to rewind a TP roll accurately. You know what happens when you use too loose a TP roll in a Frantz - too much oil flow escapes through the Frantz and damages the engine. Why not just use a Frantz 3 stacker or machine your own filter housing? I've always wanted something to accomodate a Jumbo Scott TP roll.
Actually if the frantz has the restrictor hole like it should for the engine oil application no damage is possible even if you did not have a TP roll in there at all. I thought that maybe making a filter was possible using Paper towel rolls--lots larger then the tp ones. Using a lathe or even a set-up on rollers would make it easier to do and keep it centered correctly. But then again after some more thought--my goal is to get a longer mileage filter in the end--that is why I did away with my frantz filter--too often filter changes. So staying with the cotton might be the ticket.
T
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Yes, I think these are great filters. I didn't really reach the limit of mine. I installed little guages on taps in the head. New it had 2 PSID ..when I took it off, after a decent number of miles it had 3 PSID. I estimated that a 15k life span was reasonable. Mine was used full flow ..so I don't quite know if that would make a difference. I don't see how it could. I mean it's supposed to trap everything anyway, so full flow shouldn't clog it any more than it would normally.
They aren't quite as good as TP nor as cheap ..but for the $5-8 a piece they are far superior to any spin-on available for the miles you can put on them, IMHO.
I converted a LF 750 housing made by Fleetguard and installed it on a 8.3 Cummins. The stock filter element is a LF 750 A which is shredded newspapers in a perforated steel cartridge. The stock element is 7 1/2" by 15". After I roll two rolls of Kleenex Viva into one roll and three rolls of Scott together I have about a 7 1/2" by 15 1/2" element. I put a 1/16" orifice at the inlet. the filter has a flow rate about the same as the Motor Guard M-30. I don't expect to ever have to drain the oil. I hope to change the filter and add 4 gallons of make up oil about every 1,000 hrs. The oil is very clear. Because of it's large size and the fact that it takes three rolls of TP it is submicronic. It will out filter any filter available. The wound cotton elements would be no competition for this filter. It would be about the same as 15 Motor Guards or Frantzes in parallel with a 1/16" orifice. If the element is the same depth the larger it is and the slower the flow rate the better the cleaning.
So far I have only sent in two oil analysis reports to Pennzoil. At 321 hours the iron was 20; chromium 1; lead 1; copper 2; aluminum 2; silicon 4; soot under.1 percent. At 767 hrs iron 7; curomium 0; lead 0; copper 0; aluminum 1; silicon 3; soot under.1 percent.
If your oil ever needs to be drained because it is dirty your filter probably isn't doing it's job.
The filter is large at 20 inches long and 10 inches wide at the lid clamp but if you are going to experiment with a large filter you might as well do it right. Most any junk bypass filter will beat the full flow filter at cleaning oil.
Ralph
So far I have only sent in two oil analysis reports to Pennzoil. At 321 hours the iron was 20; chromium 1; lead 1; copper 2; aluminum 2; silicon 4; soot under.1 percent. At 767 hrs iron 7; curomium 0; lead 0; copper 0; aluminum 1; silicon 3; soot under.1 percent.
If your oil ever needs to be drained because it is dirty your filter probably isn't doing it's job.
The filter is large at 20 inches long and 10 inches wide at the lid clamp but if you are going to experiment with a large filter you might as well do it right. Most any junk bypass filter will beat the full flow filter at cleaning oil.
Ralph
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