String wound cartridge filter for bypass ?

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Looking into making an engine bypass filter using a single string wound cartridge filter.
The filter spec. is 10 inches long , 2.5 inch OD, 1 inch ID (stainless steel tube ), 250 deg F max temp., 1 micron (nominal I guess ) , 3 gpm max flow , $ 4.71 from Mcmaster-Carr P/N 4411K37.
The single filter stainless steel housing also in Mcmaster-Carr is $ 103.20 P/N 43715K42.
Anyone else ever consider or use this type of filter for a bypass setup ?
Thanks Jim
 
Sure ..but I just think bigger then you
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Size does matter.

Should do a fine job. How and where are you mounting it??
 
It will have to go behind the engine on the frame underneath the car. No room up front. There is a pipe plug at the lower right hand side of the engine(facing front)giving me access to the oil prior to the full flow filter. This will keep the oil lines to the bypass filter and back to the oil pan drain plug short , easy to drain and change.
Jim
 
What size lines do you intend to run? This filter will flow more than a typical bypass without restrictions put somewhere in-line. Mine, at twice the size, handles the full flow of the oil pump output with only a 2 psi differential. I would suspect that yours will too ..for a good while anyway. If your tap is a 1/8" port ..then you may be okay.


What's this in? What kinda volume do you anticipate for oil flow from your pump?
 
These filters are useless for motor oil. they don't have the depth required to deal with the submicronic contamination and condensation. They do have uses but cleaning isn't one of their strong points. McMaster-Carr only has one filter that is effective enough to deal with the submicronic contamination with a rating of 1/10th micron and 4 inches of depth but they have to be converted to take oil temperature. I understand the filters because I have used them for motor oil for almost 40 years. I know how to convert them. To save on maching I have started using coper internal parts in the Motor Guards. I can use the McMaster elements if I remove the plastic cores but it is easier to just convert them to take TP such as Scott 1000 sheet. The filters were designed origionally to take TP when all they made was the lube oil filters. In the seventies the Motor Guards were beefed up and epoxy coated inside and out. They were opened up to get more flow. In the casting process the cores were changed to polyproplyene. The origional filters were all cast aluminum. I only have two of the origional lube oil filters. One has been in use for over 30 years. The other one is a collectors item and has never been used. Motor Guard figured out many years ago that it was easier to convince people that compressed air is supposed to be clean than it was to convince people that lube oil is supposed to be clean. Although it is changing most people think that proper maintenance is allowing the oil to get dirty, wear and foul the engine then draining it. The oil changers got an upper hand on that marketing a long time ago.

Ralph
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Gary
Thanks for the info on the 3.5 inch dia filters.
This will be going in a PT Cruiser. Not a lot of room to put in a " TP " size filter. The bypass flow will be around 1 qt/min with a 1/4 inch line to filter and 3/8 outlet to oil drain.
Jim
 
You may want to choke this on both ends there. This filter will flow a good bit. I think you could run it full flow without difficulty. Mine only runs a 2psi drop whether cold or hot. Yours may do just as good. That is, a 1/4 line may rob more flow than you think from the oil stream.

When you order your reducer bushings along with your canister, I'd recommend getting 3/4 to 1/8" and then figure the rest of your plumbing from there. A valve may be your cheapest way to regulate the flow after installation.

Look at P/N # 2293K13 on page 2010 of McMaster. They can be ordered with a metering preferrence for rate.

One 1/8" opening ..with very little restriction, can flow a butt load of oil. This filter, for a good while, will be transparent to the oil flow and you'll be shunting too much oil back to the pan, IMHO.

Good luck!!
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My planned inlet restrictor size for starters will be .039 dia orifice at the inlet side of the filter. At 60 to 70 psi on a cold start it should flow approx .18 gpm and .25 gpm at a warmed up 30 to 40 psi @ 3000 rpm. I can check out the actual flow and pressure drop across the whole setup at work prior to the final installation.
I looked at those metering restrictors, but I was disappointed that McMaster Carr didn't list any actual flow or CV numbers

Jim
 
It sounds like you've got a well thought out plan here. I believe that these filters will last a decent amount of time. I'm hoping to get over 10-15k out of mine ..maybe more. I'll next use the 3.5" element to reduce the size of the sump. Right now it appears that my canister fits about 5 liters of oil with the 2.5" element and the sump takes between 5 and 6.


Plan on having a hard time reading the dipstick if your oil selection is of the "near clear" variety
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. My Pennzoil LL is one such oil.

btw- what price schedule are you reading from McMaster Carr? Everyone else appears to get a cheaper price than I do off of the internet. I know that if you're a buyer for a larger customer ..you get discounts ..but everyone else appears to be reading something other than I am on a "on demand" view type thing ...yet I see no "log in" to differentiate between one customer and another.
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For example: 43715K42 is $129 on the internet ..yet you see $103.20
 
My bad on the price schedule, I was using an old catalogue. I take the old ones home from work.
I hate having to get my glasses just to read the oil level. You might try roughing up the flat surface of the dipstick it'll make it easier to read.
My oil change intervals will have to stay at around 4K. Too many of my trips are under 5 miles.
Jim
 
If anyone is interested I can get the housing similar to the the McMastercarr ones in all stainless (head and body) using the 10 inch wound filters for $125 and .5 micron rated cotton on stainless core cartridges for $5 plus shipping. This head has 3/8" ins/outs and comes with a small mounting bracket. I don't do this for making money but if I can help anyone else just let me know by emailing me.

I just put one on my 7.3 powerstroke and can't wait to get some UOA's on it. By the way I put in a restrictor with a 1/8" hole drilled into the restrictor. You do not want too big of a hole as this will take too much oil from your engine's circulation system and could possibly reduce the pressure in your close tolerance gaps too much. That would not be good and would actually result in more wear.
 
I haven't taken any pics but it is mounted next to the ff filter and its lowest part is still higher than the drain plug on the pan. I will take some pics next time I can get under the truck or have it in the air. It is a sweet setup and the canister gets really hot so that must be cooling the oil down some as well.
 
Tony, Sounds great.. looking forward to the pics..

I changed out the OilGuard on my Duramax yesterday.. filter had 20Kmiles on it...I cross-sectioned the element with a utility knife and it looked like it could easily go longer. Interesting thing was that the center of each individual string was black like the soot was accumulating in the center. Could this indicate the oil follows a path through each spiral wrapped string? I took some pics and will post them soon. The magnets inside the canister also had a thin coating of sludge on them ...

These filters do seem to work well..

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