Stopping brake hose flow - tool/fitting?

JHZR2

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Every brake caliper/hose I’ve replaced has used a screw-in hose. M10x1.0 as I recall. I know others use a banjo bolt.

If one wants to swap calipers but not pinch the flex hose (and it’s in good shape/newish), what is the right tool to use?

I’ve seen m10x1.0 caps, like this:


Is that the best bet or something else? For old hoses to be swapped, vice grips are fine, but I’d never take such a chance on a hose I wish to keep.

Thanks!
 
I have done this job twice without replacing the hose. In both cases I hung the old caliper as high as possible, mounted the new caliper to the bracket, and held my thumb over the end while I quickly moved the hose from the old caliper to the new one. I had no need to pinch the hose or plug it. That said, I can imagine plugging the hose would be helpful in some applications. The acorn nuts shown above should work.
 
I will never pinch a brake hose. Best bet is to work fast and keep the M/C full then bleed as required. @demarpaint and @RyanY both mention good ways to do the job but if you want to close them off with a nut or something that is fine too. There are more ways then one to do that job but pinching the brake line is not one of the best ways and I am happy you are not doing that.
 
I've seen videos from actual mechanics/techs and remember seeing a clamping tool that I would best describe as looking like a stubby pair of scissors. They latched or locked closed but I can't recall how that part worked. Found 'em...

1726419963913.webp
 
Let me preface this by saying I don't golf. I plug the brake hose with a golf tee.

I use golf tees also for plugging the nozzles on caulking cartriges, for spacing wooden boards or tiles, as pegs in peg boards, for homemade caltrops, and I use golf tees for a number of other useful purposes.
You, Sir, are a genius!! I am on my way to Academy Sports for a box of Golf tees!
 
You, Sir, are a genius!! I am on my way to Academy Sports for a box of Golf tees!
Well, thanks. Usually, they call me things that end with olé. They also make glow-in-the-dark golf tees for nocturnal applications.

People often think I'm being insincere*. Let me put my fingers where my mouth* is:

A tee has a useful tapered tip. See the useful thickened circumferential ridge? The T-top makes for easy insertion and extraction.


 
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Stick a tire valve stem in the banjo bolt hole

As far as stopping flow from hard lines I just work as quickly as possible and leave the master cylinder cap on
 
I have done this job twice without replacing the hose. In both cases I hung the old caliper as high as possible, mounted the new caliper to the bracket, and held my thumb over the end while I quickly moved the hose from the old caliper to the new one. I had no need to pinch the hose or plug it. That said, I can imagine plugging the hose would be helpful in some applications. The acorn nuts shown above should work.
Somewhere on the board we recently had a member who didn't want to front the core charges or do the trip twice so he took his old calipers to the parts store, leaving the lines to hang. He was inquiring why he couldn't get a good bleed after it had several hours to drain.....

For some reason I absolutely hate bench bleeding a master and will do anything to avoid it.
 
This is another benefit of insisting on new hoses if a caliper needs replacement: you can clamp the old hose with abandon.

I only use clamps on hoses I know I'm replacing
 
I think the best practice is to work quickly, have many microfiber towel and shop towels around, and plan on bleeding the system. If you have to clamp a hose, it is certain that you need to bleed. Anybody clamping hoses that will be reused is a sociopath.
 
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Stick a tire valve stem in the banjo bolt hole

As far as stopping flow from hard lines I just work as quickly as possible and leave the master cylinder cap on
Mine don’t use banjo bolts
 
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