Start up lifter noise

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I changed the oil in our 06 Grand caravan. I used Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 and a fram tough guard filter. Since doing so when doing a cold start I get a second or two of lifter chatter. Defective filter? Any suggestions?
 
I changed the oil in our 06 Grand caravan. I used Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 and a fram tough guard filter. Since doing so when doing a cold start I get a second or two of lifter chatter. Defective filter? Any suggestions?

If it didnt make a noise before then it probably has something to do with the filter or a one in a million coincidence. I had a engine that made startup noise with a Fram Ultra but not the Napa Gold It always got prior to, switching it out got rid of the noise instantly.
 
Only start up noise that I've ever had on an engine was with a Fram filter.

Took it off, threw it away... noise went away.

Agree, haven't used a Fram in over 20 years because of this...

Op, try an OEM filter and see if it goes way...

Just my $0.02
 
Are you guys saying the oil flow is blocked or reduced for a few seconds with certain oil filters?
 
If it didnt make a noise before then it probably has something to do with the filter or a one in a million coincidence. I had a engine that made startup noise with a Fram Ultra but not the Napa Gold It always got prior to, switching it out got rid of the noise instantly.


This ^^^^^^^^^↑^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Can certainly happen...

And I believe Trav is one of the very best knowledgeable members on here.
 
I have never had that problem. My truck ticks when it is warming up because it has hydraulic lash adjusters lifters so the oil has to get there to pump them so they won’t tick or knock it usually doesn’t take that long warm or cold and I use 10W-40 oil in it.
 
No idea but the Ultra only did it one this one engine with no issues with any other. It is a good filter but a defective ADBV or some sort of compatibility issue is a possibility.

I'm paranoid now. For the first time ever I used a non oem filter and got a Fram Ultra to change it every other oci. I can pump out pretty much all the oil without taking the skid plate off. Talk about a time consuming task!

kind of like op, with our 2005, i recall some tap tap noise the other day but can't recall if was at startup or later but I think it lasts much longer than few seconds till the engine warms up a little. I will pay more attention next time.
 
Another question.
Based on what I've read, at startup or up to a few seconds after startup , the engine is running on leftover oil up in the engine parts.
remember the "intelligent" oils or oils with ester that cling and designed for this purpose ...
That tells me there is not enough time for the pump to be pumping any significant amount of cold and more viscous oil very effectively for the first few seconds. So how does adbv come into this equation during the first few seconds?

by design, how quickly is the oil squirted or should be available up in the engine parts at startup ?
 
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I checked the bypass valve settings for the FRAM TG16, WIX 51085 and Purolator PL14670. The FRAM bypass setting is higher than the others.
 
Another question.
Based on what I've read, at startup or up to a few seconds after startup , the engine is running on leftover oil up in the engine parts.
remember the "intelligent" oils or oils with ester that cling and designed for this purpose ...
That tells me there is not enough time for the pump to be pumping any significant amount of cold and more viscous oil very effectively for the first few seconds. So how does adbv come into this equation during the first few seconds?

by design, how quickly is the oil squirted or should be available up in the engine parts at startup ?

Depending on the system and the orientation of the filter the ADBV is a critical component for many engines, some engines dont need or use one. The oil begins pumping right as the engine is turning over, to see this in action observe an engine that is not starting for some reason and notice the idiot light will go out while cranking.
The job of the ADBV is to keep oil in the filter and therfore the galley system without letting it drain back into the pan which would effectively create a dry start.
Given enough time they all will eventually leak down so it seems but not over night if it is in good working order.

Like anything else there are inevitably going to be manufacturing defects no matter the brand so if some noise appears right after a filter change that was not there before its probably prudent to swap it.
 
I have had this coincidence before, except on my engine, napa golds make it tick on start up. Any other filter and it is silent. As long as the oil pressure comes up quick I don't normally worry about it.
 
In 40 years of car ownership, I've never had an engine tick* on start-up. Some had hydraulic lash adjustment. Some didn't. Some have roller cam lifters.

None of them ticked.

I have never had that problem. My truck ticks when it is warming up because it has hydraulic lash adjusters lifters so the oil has to get there to pump them so they won’t tick or knock it usually doesn’t take that long warm or cold and I use 10W-40 oil in it.

This is not normal. Lifters don't need to pump up on every start. Either the lifters are bad, or the filter is...or, see below...


*Valve tick. I've had an exhaust manifold leak - they sound remarkably similar. A stethoscope is so very useful...
 
In 40 years of car ownership, I've never had an engine tick* on start-up. Some had hydraulic lash adjustment. Some didn't. Some have roller cam lifters.

None of them ticked.



This is not normal. Lifters don't need to pump up on every start. Either the lifters are bad, or the filter is...or, see below...


*Valve tick. I've had an exhaust manifold leak - they sound remarkably similar. A stethoscope is so very useful...

Yes, the most common cause for a tick that happens after an engine start is an exhaust manifold leak via either a crack or broken stud(s). These often seal up due to expansion as the parts heat. Another, less common and very engine specific one is when a plug starts to get loose on a 2V Modular it ticks until it eventually blows out :LOL:
 
In 40 years of car ownership, I've never had an engine tick* on start-up. Some had hydraulic lash adjustment. Some didn't. Some have roller cam lifters.

None of them ticked.



This is not normal. Lifters don't need to pump up on every start. Either the lifters are bad, or the filter is...or, see below...


*Valve tick. I've had an exhaust manifold leak - they sound remarkably similar. A stethoscope is so very useful...

They can and do leak down overnight (or longer) and tick when cold in some engines and can be very normal especially in colder climates. Subaru and Mitsubishi and VW all have TSB's on this issue. The fix is to drive them at 3K + rpm for 5 min. VW says as long as it goes away (one some engines like the old 2.0) consider it normal (they have had issues since the Vanagon days when they put hydraulics in them). Varnish can also cause this due to sticking but that noise is usually constant and doesn't go away.
Some Subaru engine will rattle like marbles in a can if let sitting for a week or more, a horrible racket, give it a good run and it will go silent, the lifters bled down and are air bound, 100% normal for these.

Of course with most engines this is not normal and cracked exhaust manifolds are a common issue as is high pressure fuel pump cam lobe erosion on some engines, secondary air pumps and some other issues can all make similar noise. Finding the root source can be a bit of a pain as some of these systems only run for a short time when the engine is cold.
 
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