Southbend replacement clutch G56-OK

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JXW

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Apr 11, 2010
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Milford, MI (USA)
104,000 miles on Ram 2500 CTD with stock clutch. Determined that clutch was slipping under more than 50% throttle and need to replace with good "Towing" clutch.

Have heard that the solid flywheel replacement clutch generates more noise and harshness from harmonic vibration etc. from crank and transmission.

Looking for ideas that will make installing replacement clutch as smooth and as quiet as possible.
 
Probably talking about a "puck" clutch without springs. I'm on board with curiousity if those springs see action aside from during clutch engagement.

ACT_6_puck.jpg


vs a stocker:

b1_sachs_clutch_kit_cars_zf.jpg


Back in the day a HD clutch was a regular one with a stiffer spring set on the cover, that was murder on the driver's left leg. Now they come with better friction material etc.

So which is it, Heavy duty or smooth driving that's more important? Can't go too wrong with stock replacement from a name brand like LUK (my favorite) or sachs.
 
The flywheel on the 2005.5 and up Dodge ram have a dual mass flywheel, similar to this pic.



dual%20mass.jpg
Clutch






















They haven't been the most reliable units, and don't hold up to abuse very well.

South bend offers several products that replace the troublesome dual mass flywheel set up with a traditional clutch. South Bend Clutch
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Solid flywheel replacement clutch?


The SouthBend clutch (G56 OK) is a solid flywheel, single disc rated to 450hp which best matches my stock 5.9L Cummins and primary use for towing 10,000lbs or more.

Any tips, ideas, suggestions???
 
JXW -
OK - I see.
The simpler system seems better to me.
Yes, it could be a bit more harsh.
I like to use as light of a clutch as necessary.
Easier to operate and less wear on parts.
A heavy clutch spring does not make it last longer. Good quality is #1 for disc life.

Clean and lube everything that you can with moly grease. This includes a bit on the input splines, throwout bearing inner surface where it rides, and the clutch fork pivot.

BTW, the clutch fork pivot may need to be shimmed out[machined washer] if you have a dressed or thinner flywheel. Not rocket science, but a common sense thing. This will get the clutch to operate with the proper angles and travel.
 
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