Are clutches and clutch components maintenance wear items?

[HankHill]

Same on all manual BMWs, Minis, VWs, Audis and probably many others as well.
I always wanted to do that mod, but never found the time.

No kidding, I thought that was only a BMW thing.. But then again I've only driven an auto Audi before. I skipped the mod because I was dumping it soon, otherwise I'd have drilled that sucker right out that night. I can only imagine how well that car could have shifted without it.

 

[RooflessVW]

Yeah clutch delay valve. Pretty common to drill them out or remove them altogether.

 

[HankHill]

Yeah clutch delay valve. Pretty common to drill them out or remove them altogether.

****, I've had over 40 cars in my 43 years, and I'd never heard of that valve in my BMW. And, I thought it was only a BMW thing..

 

[ecotourist]

I've had 2 clutches "fail" in over 50 years of driving.

The clutch on my '65 Comet "failed" when a pin fell out of the linkage.

The clutch on my '86 Volvo Turbo "failed" when some part of the hydraulic linkage (though inside the clutch) broke. They replaced the clutch and pressure plate because they were "in there anyway." The repair shop said there was still quite a bit of wear left on the clutch.

That's it.

 

[ecotourist]

I had an 07 325ci with a 5 speed tranny. ....

I was on a BMW forum and I found out that there is a restriction valve in the the clutch line. It was made to slow the fluid down, and it resulted in a softer, gentler clutch release and contact with the flywheel. There was a mod where you removed the restriction valve and drilled it out, re-installing. It apparently made the clutch perform like a normal clutch would. BMW thought it would be more gentle on the driveline and result in less wear.

I knew there was a clutch delay valve on my 2000 528i when I bought it. I planned to remove it or modify it but found the clutch worked quite well so I never touched it. Must depend on the model.

 

[D60]

^^^^we gutted it on this Sidekick but it didn't help our problem. In fact, THAT was another example of linkage wear I forgot to mention. We kept thinking the clutch wasn't bleeding correctly but in reality it was impossible to compress the master enough due to an oval where a round hole should be.

In that case I yanked the assy and welded up the slot and re-drilled a (round) hole.....er ya know as opposed to drilling a square hole

 

[HankHill]

It had that much use the hole wore out? ****, how many miles on it when it was worn?

 

[ls1mike]

****, I've had over 40 cars in my 43 years, and I'd never heard of that valve in my BMW. And, I thought it was only a BMW thing..

F-bodies have what is called the "drill mod". It helps the pedal return more quickly to the correct height. Basically you are drilling out a restrictor/orfice to get better clutch function. Prevents slippage, difficulty shifting at high RPM and various other drivability issues. I did it to all my 6 speed F-bodies.

 

[1 SX]

Wow what an interesting thread.

I did research this slave cylinder delay valve “mod” and it’s a thing! I could do this on the Kia, but I have two problems, one The slave cylinder is internal of the bell housing, and two i’m so used to it now after the throttle modification that I’m afraid to change it. I’m definitely not a hard shifter and I don’t think it would be of any benefit for a daily driver, it hooks up really nicely if you ask it to currently. The commutes also are pretty easy on it mostly highway some back country roads, a little city every now and then.

I plan on keeping this one for the foreseeable future, and could see an easy 200k plus out of the car as a whole with basic repairs. It’s a very “analog” feeling car with a touch of modern that does talk to you.. if you listen so a clutch replacement would be acceptable to me down the road to keep it going.
I now know they are wear items like brakes. I will try my best not to slip at all because it seems like that is number one killer to wear it out fast. If that time comes, I will replace “everything” and do the job only once.. last note: when I replace the brakes/rotors in the upcoming weeks I’m going to schedule an appointment and have the brake fluid flushed with the clutch slave cylinder.

Thank you for all the insight

 

[Hyundai Respecter]

Wow what an interesting thread.

I did research this slave cylinder delay valve “mod” and it’s a thing! I could do this on the Kia, but I have two problems, one The slave cylinder is internal of the bell housing

Are you sure? The Hyundais I’m familiar with have the slave cylinder external, very similar to this video for the 2.0L Forte

 

[1 SX]

Are you sure? The Hyundais I’m familiar with have the slave cylinder external, very similar to this video for the 2.0L Forte

Infamous 2.4 clutch mod!

****Update***** Specclutch.com has stated that they plan on releasing a lightweight flywheel for the 6 speed some time next month. They already sell stage 1 through 7 clutch kits for them and they are going to email me when available; they did not quote a price. Turbokits.com is also working...

www.forteforums.com

I was going off of this how to. I really looked also and I can’t see anything of the sorts.

 

[Hyundai Respecter]

I was going off of this how to. I really looked also and I can’t see anything of the sorts.

Oh that s*cks

 

[1 SX]

Oh that s*cks

Honestly though this clutch feel is not nearly as bad as these Kia forums make it seem. This was before the throttle mod I believe so with the throttle mod the clutch actually feels extremely acceptable I have zero complaints about it, and little desire to take out that valve unless of course we were in there a ready replacing components then I might contemplate it. I would really go as far as to say it actually feels like one of the better ones and is “forgiving”.

It’s just unfortunate Kia tuned the clutch and throttle in such a way from the factory, I’m sure there was a lot of unhappy people that bought or test drove these manual transmission equipped cars and either burnt out the clutch extremely fast or was unhappy with the dead space/ lag of the throttle it really was a hot mess from the factory. - you would have to be a master manual transmission expert to drive it correctly before the adjustment of throttle position sensor on pedal.

Edit: I actually enjoyed tuning things so for me to make adjustments of sensor readings was not a big deal and I accept that as part of the process of owning a mass produce product. I’m actually grateful there are adjustments.

 

[Hyundai Respecter]

Honestly though this clutch feel is not nearly as bad as these Kia forums make it seem. This was before the throttle mod I believe so with the throttle mod the clutch actually feels extremely acceptable I have zero complaints about it, and little desire to take out that valve unless of course we were in there a ready replacing components then I might contemplate it. I would really go as far as to say it actually feels like one of the better ones and is “forgiving”.

It’s just unfortunate Kia tuned the clutch and throttle in such a way from the factory, I’m sure there was a lot of unhappy people that bought or test drove these manual transmission equipped cars and either burnt out the clutch extremely fast or was unhappy with the dead space/ lag of the throttle it really was a hot mess from the factory. - you would have to be a master manual transmission expert to drive it correctly before the adjustment of throttle position sensor on pedal.

On my Kia Soul the slave cylinder is like the video I linked and I’m debating doing it. That setup is easier because if I decide I don’t like it, I can easily put it back. I’m getting used to this clutch but for a while I absolutely hated it and sometimes I’ll still curse it. Once in a while it feels like i forget how to drive manual and it’s my first time again.

That forum and others I’ve read make it sound like it will be a night and day difference, but I don’t know about that. I might give it a try. I bought some Redline MT-LV and I want to change the factory fluid and I’d probably delete the CDV at the same time while I’m under there.

 

[1 SX]

Once in a while it feels like i forget how to drive manual and it’s my first time again.

That forum and others I’ve read make it sound like it will be a night and day difference, but I don’t know about that. I might give it a try. I bought some Redline MT-LV and I want to change the factory fluid and I’d probably delete the CDV at the same time I do that while I’m under there.

I can completely relate

I also did the redline fluid exchange, and there was a noticeable improvement feel in shift quality.

And don’t get me wrong if the valve was external and I could do it in the driveway in 15 minutes I probably would give it a shot, and like you if I don’t like it I would reinstall it.

Unfortunately that’s not the case here.

 

[zzyzzx]

Are clutches and clutch components maintenance wear items?​

Yes.

 

[IndyIan]

Are clutches and clutch components maintenance wear items?​

Yes.

but not always.
If you are careful.
Or lucky.

 

[Marcozi]

Most manufacturers consider the clutch to be a wear item, and do not cover it under the new car warranty. However, some dealers will replace the clutch under the "good will" program. "Good will"? basically, the dealer is eating the cost because the owner is a valued customer. My car had a strange clutch engagement/disengagement vibration at about 2500 miles. Took it to the dealer from which I bought the car, and the Service Manager drove the car. He admitted that there was something wrong. They told me if they pulled the clutch and there was no visible issue with it that I was on the hook for their labor. Turned out the pressure plate had a nickel-sized burn mark, so I got a new clutch assembly. Another example is my BIL's Subaru with more than 150k miles. Check engine light came on and he took it to the dealer. Bad sensor, the replacement for which costs $2k! BC he takes the car to the dealer for all service the dealer knocked off $1k.