Something Ain't Right But I Don't Know What

So the screen is at the bottom of the OCV?
How in the world could a man get that thing out? It’s 4 inches down in there.
I thought it was up under a bolt
 
I ain’t planning on taking the valve cover off just yet. Thanks Trav!

hugs and one kiss on the cheek
 
UPDATE! I think I have found the problem but now I need a solution. With the switch in the "On" position I have no
volts on either clip that attaches to the OCV. On my LS430, both clips have voltage with the key in "on" position.
Both of these were replaced at time of timing belt repair. Where to go next?
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Another update. I went back to triple check and now one clip has .002 volts when my meter is set to 2.
Nothing shows when set to 20. My LS430 showed 7.5v when set on 20.

So apparently, this voltage is sometimes there and sometimes not there.
 
First check the voltage at the wires themselves before the clip, who knows they may have a bad connection when the did the repair.
After that I would back probe it to the ecm, check any relay and fuses in that system for a wonky connection.
Sorry this is just general info I don't work on too many of these cars but I will look at the wiring diagram later tonight when I am done working.
 
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Well, I have found another Mechanic who works beside the Lexus dealership (just a sales outfit) and comes highly recommended. It's a one woman operation (Micah) and the dealership recommended her. Next Friday is my appointment.

Automechanic, you may know her.
 
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Check for continuity at the ECM connector to pins 20d (+) to left hand connector pin 1 and 19d (-) to connector pin 2, right hand 19A to connector pin 1 (+) and 28A to connector pin 2 (-).
I am still looking at dependencies for when these are activated, engine temp, rpm, speed, etc.

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Trav, this is beyond my cerebral capacity. How in the world do you come up with this ? LOL

I will give this to MIcah (my newly recommended mechanic). Maybe this can help her.

I do know in my LS430 I get over 1 volts when I check those OCV connectors with ignition "ON" and I get nothing on the LS400.
Some people say I should not be getting any voltage with the key on. I'm at the dark brown toast phase
ready for butter and honey. My guts tell me to replace the OCV on bank 2. Well, it may not be my guts. That thought
keeps occurring to me. I'll think a little more......
 
I believe (I am no Toyota/Lexus mechanic just an old wrench turner so I cant be 100% about it) that these VVT solenoids are are dependent on engine coolant temp so cold engine key on will have nothing at the plugs.
The other thing is you do not have have voltage at the other plug either yet there is no code being shown for that bank. I would replace the VVT solenoid and see if it works if you have it anyway, if you didn't get it then let the mechanic look into it first.
 
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The passenger side OCV made no difference. My future mechanic says it is in the timing. Kevin Glover of Cartunz in NZ says he runs into this
problem with questions at least twice a month and almost always it is a cam timing issue. My current and future mechanic got online with
2 Yota Guru's and they both said it was in the timing. I got a new timing belt with the marks and he is gonna have a do-over next week.
I'm crossing my fingers....
 
The passenger side OCV made no difference. My future mechanic says it is in the timing. Kevin Glover of Cartunz in NZ says he runs into this
problem with questions at least twice a month and almost always it is a cam timing issue. My current and future mechanic got online with
2 Yota Guru's and they both said it was in the timing. I got a new timing belt with the marks and he is gonna have a do-over next week.
I'm crossing my fingers....
Gebo, any update on this?
 
No. My mechanic sent me this last week:

“I have used my scope and proven the timing is off. I am going to take it back down Tuesday as i am finishing a engine install. The guys i posted the scope waveform to say that i probably have a faulty vvt actuator( which you have replaced ). It is possible the timing belt is labeled incorrectly also. I posted and conversed worh sone of the smartest people in the USA with picoscope, but i got to be on my game to post on that web forum. I will let you know what i find asap”

I have told him to take his time. This is proving to be very difficult.
 
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No. My mechanic sent me this last week:

“I have used my scope and proven the timing is off. I am going to take it back down Tuesday as i am finishing a engine install. The guys i posted the scope waveform to say that i probably have a faulty vvt actuator( which you have replaced ). It is possible the timing belt is labeled incorrectly also. I posted and conversed worh sone of the smartest people in the USA with picoscope, but i got to be on my game to post on that web forum. I will let you know what i find asap”

I have told him to take his time. This is proving to be very difficult.
Arg, sounds like a potential compound problem, involving the timing (probably), and the vvt actuator (possibly) as well. Bonus, the vvt issue may be intermittent.

Hoping this is resolved soon! Please keep us posted.
 
Well, here is where we are today. The oscilloscope shows the timing is correct but we are still getting P1351 or P1346. Whichever is the
right bank. Cam phasers (actuators) and OCV and timing belt have all been replaced. Mechanic says it will be cheaper to start with the cam and crank sensors. He did replace the timing belt once again and the code switched from driver's to passenger's side. Weird????

He has submitted the oscilloscope reading to some oscilloscope forum to verify it is correct as he believes it is. I submitted a post for anyone that has the picosoft software that would interested in looking at it.

After talking more it could be the computer?
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