Something Ain't Right But I Don't Know What

[Gebo]

I could write a novel on this mechanics tale. Remember the clanking in the '98 LS400 that was happening because mechanic #1
failed to tighten the cam tensioners after replacing them both. Well, after doing all that I got P1346 and P1351. Mechanic #2 said
the timing is off and he said it was off a tooth or two on both sides. He fixed that. Car always ran fine. Now about 30 miles later I
get another P1351. I said, it's just a fluke. Erased it and it came back in another 30 or so miles.

I woke up and thought to myself, why don't I recheck the timing myself? Watched a few youtubes and went for it. I have attached
some pics so you guys can verify the timing belt is on correctly.

Assuming timing belt is on correctly, my question is, "Where do I go from here?" Mechanic #1 and #2 are at a loss as of 8:30 am this morning.


As you can see in the last phone, it was a little tight turning the crank from up top with radiator in place.

 

[Astro14]

That looks way off.

Alignment marks are usually thin lines, and it’s lined up with big casting bosses. Should the notch in the pulleys be lined up with the yellow highlighted marks?

Because they’re about 20 degrees different.

Assuming that you put the crank on TDC, then you’re two teeth off on both cams. Huge retard on the cams will let it run smooth, but it won’t make power at higher RPM.

 

[dbias]

Have the wires and sensors been checked? Makes sure the battery and alternator are good also.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Either one or the other cam pulley is off by a bit ...

 

[atikovi]

In the 2 middle pictures, shouldn't the notch in the pulleys align with the bottom of the "T"? I'd post this on the Lexus or Toyota forums or look at some service data for answers.

 

[The Critic]

The timing is correct. The “T marks” are for belt install only and sets the crank and cams in a position where they are less likely to jump (and risk damaging the valves).

 

[Passport1]

Dam*, looks like the timing marks got transferred to your arm.

 

[Trav]

I would be looking at the VVT solenoid and screen filter on the pass side.

https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_199...g-VVT-Solenoid-Right/63036577/153300F010.html

Something this old with this many miles you may want to go aftermarket.

1998 Lexus LS 400 Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid (Right). CAM TIMING OIL - 153300F010 - Genuine Lexus Part

Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid (Right). CAM TIMING OIL CONTROL, RIGHT; CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL. 1998 Lexus LS 400. Genuine Lexus Part - 153300F010 (15330-0F010, 1533050010, 1533050011)

parts.lexus.com

Filter.

1998 Lexus LS 400 Filter. Oil control valve; oil control valve, left; oil control valve - 1567846020 - Genuine Lexus Part

Filter. Oil control valve; oil control valve, left; oil control valve, right. 1998 Lexus LS 400. Genuine Lexus Part - 1567846020 (15678-46020, 1567846010)

parts.lexus.com

Check the electrical connector and wiring first.

 

[Gebo]

I am thinking was

I would be looking at the VVT solenoid and screen filter on the pass side.

https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_199...g-VVT-Solenoid-Right/63036577/153300F010.html

Something this old with this many miles you may want to go aftermarket.

1998 Lexus LS 400 Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid (Right). CAM TIMING OIL - 153300F010 - Genuine Lexus Part

Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid (Right). CAM TIMING OIL CONTROL, RIGHT; CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL. 1998 Lexus LS 400. Genuine Lexus Part - 153300F010 (15330-0F010, 1533050010, 1533050011)

parts.lexus.com

Filter.

1998 Lexus LS 400 Filter. Oil control valve; oil control valve, left; oil control valve - 1567846020 - Genuine Lexus Part

Filter. Oil control valve; oil control valve, left; oil control valve, right. 1998 Lexus LS 400. Genuine Lexus Part - 1567846020 (15678-46020, 1567846010)

parts.lexus.com

Check the electrical connector and wiring first.

I am thinking what you are saying but after I rechecked the timing marks and saw how difficult it appears to remove the OCV, I hesitated.
I gotta figure what to take off to be able to slide the OCV out. YIKES!

Oh, Trav...you know I can't go aftermarket with my companion for the last 20 years.

 

[1uz_4me]

As posted, the oil control valves are the culprit. You can also check to make sure the VVT sensor is plugged in. There are 2, 1 on each bank about at the middle of the fuel rail & just beneath the rail

 

[Gebo]

AND I apologize, between dog feeding and coffee making and phone call and my computer locking up, I double posted. My bad...
I got upset with Astro after he locked my other thread and then realized I was wrong. Apologies to you Astro.

 

[Astro14]

Gebo - I was trying to focus the answers in one thread, so that all the good ideas were present in that one thread. The problem with parallel threads (same topic, two sets of responses) is that some responses would have been better informed had the poster read the other thread.

I realize that is a cumbersome way to say: one topic, one thread works better.

If it's really a concern, I'll unlock the other thread, I just think you're better served with one thread on the timing issue/P1351, and this one had pictures...

 

[Gebo]

As posted, the oil control valves are the culprit. You can also check to make sure the VVT sensor is plugged in. There are 2, 1 on each bank about at the middle of the fuel rail & just beneath the rail

Yes, I found those sensors and they are tight. I have 2 new clips waiting for me at Lexus as I type.

Here is my frustration and it is not at anyone but me. Lexus mechanic says it is not the OCV. My other mechanic says he thinks
the timing belt slipped. Louis Altazan says:

"I don't think the connector is likely as this is not a circuit code. More likely valve timing is still off or the signal plate was damaged on bank two. This should show up on a wave form pattern test. If the wave form is perfect and the problem continues, I have seen a damaged PCM cause this."

My guts tell me

Gebo - I was trying to focus the answers in one thread, so that all the good ideas were present in that one thread. The problem with parallel threads (same topic, two sets of responses) is that some responses would have been better informed had the poster read the other thread.

I realize that is a cumbersome way to say: one topic, one thread works better.

If it's really a concern, I'll unlock the other thread, I just think you're better served with one thread on the timing issue/P1351, and this one had pictures...

No, let me quote a famous line that will some up my actions concerning these threads,

Stupid is as stupid does.

And that's all I need to say about that.
(and I'm speaking of my actions, not yours)

Astro14, an apology is in your PM box.

 

[Gebo]

Ok, one last jump in the ocean before I go out and do some mowing to clear my head.

The white connector was replaced on both OCV's with Lexus clips.

Is there a way to make sure they are functioning properly? I have an

ohm meter.

Also, what do I need to remove to get the OCV on the passenger slide to be able to slide out? There is not enough
room here to slide it out. It hits that accelerator wire pulley thingy.

 

[1uz_4me]

Loosen the 4 nuts for the throttle body. 12mm I believe. Then just side the TB forward & wiggle out the OCV

 

[Gebo]

Loosen the 4 nuts for the throttle body. 12mm I believe. Then just side the TB forward & wiggle out the OCV

Thanks, I have ordered the OCV from Lexus. Should be here tomorrow.

Do you know if there is some way I can check the 2 connectors in the white clip?

 

[Gebo]

which one of these bolts is the OCV screen under?

 

[1uz_4me]

The one facing the top of the pic. On some cars, it's visible after removing the OCV. The 1uz in my 99 gs400 doesn't have the screens.

You might be able to find resistance parameters on Club Lexus. I personally hate searching that site. Everyone names their car, & explains everything about their life before getting to the question. It's like looking up cooking recipes online

 

[Gebo]

That's the OCV hold down nut. I'm confused

 

[1uz_4me]

Then slide the valve out. It's easy to see inside once it's removed