Soliciting Oil advice GMC Sierra 5.3 L

[Berttnick]

2007 GMC Sierra Classic 4x4
5.3 L v8 SLE
34k miles

Greetings. Just found your forum when I started researching oil and filters for my truck. Growing up, Dad was a big fan of Halvoline so we always used that. Halvoline got kind of scarce (never looked into why of if is still the case) but I have since moved on to Valvoline or Castrol. Basing my decision, mind you off of next to zero information. Probably due to advertising.

Reading through some posts, the sticky about best oil in particular, and the gears in my head start to turn. As you can tell, there are very low miles on this truck. But it isn't totally out of line for my area. My oil monitor light just came on and it was almost exactly at the 3000 mile mark, which was almost a year to date from my last oil change.

The worry is that the driving I do may be hard on the truck. Driving to work each day is usually a 5 to 6 minute drive each way. I don't remember the miles, but it is probably around 3 or 4 tops. It is city/town driving, so not a lot of dust. Due to this type of driving ( at least I think) my average mph has plummeted to around 12 or 13.

Should I be using something specific, like synthetic, or specific brand? The manual says anything that has the GM seal of approval and is 5w 30.

Any input is appreciated!

 

[Doog]

I have a 2 mile commute so I use 5w30 Pennzoil synthetic

 

[compratio10_5]

I too used Havoline for many years when it was owned by Texaco and it always performed well for me. Since about 2001 Texaco was bought by Chevron so now Havoline is made by Chevron. I normally use Chevron Supreme for gasoline engines. Since your driving is such short trips, contamination with condensed water vapor is going to be a potential problem, especially in cold Montana winters. I would look for any conventional name brand 5W-30 motor oil with the API donut and starburst approvals. If your minimum start-up temperatures are lower than -20F, you might consider a synthetic oil which has lower pour points. The GM oil life indicator is programmed for conventional oil and should compensate for your driving conditions but I still like to change oil at least every fall before cold temperatures arrive because new oil and a clean filter flow and pump better at low temperatures. You might consider driving your truck continuously at least 30 minutes every few weeks to boil the moisture out of your oil.

 

[bbhero]

GM seal of approval is the Dexos approval. There are some semi synthetic oils that do meet the Dexos specification. Pennzoil Gold Synthetic blend and Quaker State Enhanced Durability are good options. I believe almost all full synthetic oils meet the Dexos specification.
The Dexos specification is a fairly good spec. Which is helpful to an extent in finding a good oil. Obviously not the strongest or greatest spec but it is certainly above the basic API SN spec.

 

[Oro_O]

We have the same engine and MY in an Express Van, currently using Castrol Edge 5w-30 in it:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/34039135?wmlsp...008&veh=sem

Full synthetic, Dexos approval, and would be a good choice for short trips in Montana. As would Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum, also oils I use regularly. Honestly I use one of the above if it happens to have a big rebate or sale at the moment; they are all great oils. But if you like Castrol, that would be good for your usage and climate.

 

[BobsArmory]

In all reality your truck (2007) does not require the GM DEXOS rating but like others have said it's a good thing to look for. Pennzoil Gold is a pretty decent oil that many people like and it is DEXOS approved but any 5w-30 DEXOS oil would be good to go like Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil, Havoline, Quaker State etc..

Now for the winter time. If I were to park this truck outside every night, I might look into a synthetic DEXOS oil from any brand name company.

 

[zrxkawboy]

Originally Posted By: compratio10_5
You might consider driving your truck continuously at least 30 minutes every few weeks to boil the moisture out of your oil.


This is key - I would say every 2 weeks would be good.

 

[demarpaint]

Since your trips are short and you live in a colder section of the country you might want to consider an oil pan heater if you can plug it in at night. Wolverine makes a good one and their customer service is second to none.

 

[bullwinkle]

I would stick with a synthetic 5W30, especially in winter. Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil Super Synthetic, Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, all of them would get it done. Gets cold in Montana!

 

[Kuato]

First off,

to BITOG, I am also in Montana.

Sounds like your oil monitor goes 1 year, which, with your driving pattern makes sense for a maximum. Agree with what was mentioned above, a good highway run every couple of weeks and that any solid dino or synthetic would work fine. I always liked Valvoline and it is solid. Depending on where in the state you live you might consider a synthetic or the oil pan heater.

 

[Chris142]

I bumped my wifes tahoe up to a hm 10w30.really cut back on the oil consumption

 

[bubbatime]

OP lives in Montana. Just use whatever synthetic 5W30 or 0W30 oil that's on sale. If you have an Advance Auto parts near there, you can get 5 quarts of Quaker State synthetic and a filter for $20.

 

[Brian Barnhart]

I've run most of the major brand 5W30 oils (both conventional and synthetic) in my '06 Sierra with the 5.3. I've yet to find any noteworthy difference between any of them. The engine seems somewhat noisy with them all, consumes about a 1/2 a quart per 5K with them all (or more at higher speeds), and gets the same fuel economy with them all.

 

[bigt61]

If you're changing it at one year and 3000 miles, any 5W-30 SM-SN dino should work fine, even SuperTech. If you go synthetic, I'd extend the change to 6000 miles and two years.

 

[Toaster_Jer]

Couldn't help to notice; you have a couple of vehicles going 5 years between oil changes. Is this with yearly UOA or are you just winging it. Really curious here.

Lots of good pts here. Considering the low miles and the temps, my take would be to go with a product like MaxLife high mileage synthetic blend 5w30 and a good company like Blackstone for a yearly UOA. I like Napa/Wix too but if one is new at this Blackstone is really helpfull. Otherwise you are just a guessing.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
OP lives in Montana. Just use whatever synthetic 5W30 or 0W30 oil that's on sale. If you have an Advance Auto parts near there, you can get 5 quarts of Quaker State synthetic and a filter for $20.


Thats what to do. I'd use Walmart's Mobil1 0w-30 there in Montana for short trips. Its a dexos1 oil, as has been said, about any full synthetic oil these days is good enough to be dexos1. The 0w-30 will flow better for you during warm-up time in the short trips and/or winters of course. Castrol has tended to be thicker when cold; avoid that brand.

And go by the Oil Life Monitor light on your dash. Its very reliable. It reads temperatures, RPMs, loads, etc. to track blow-by gas infiltration and acid build-up conditions too. Good to adhere to exactly down to 1% oil life remaining.

 

[WankelRotorHead]

GTX Magnatec 5w-30 and stick with the OLM. This will give a little extra startup protection on the cold mornings than just a conventional but doesn't cost quite as much as a full synthetic. Because of all the short trips, I WOULD NOT extend past when the OLM says to change no matter what oil I was using unless as previously mentioned you chose to do UOA's annually.

 

[stchman]

With as little as you drive, use Mobil 1 5W-30 and a decent name brand filter(Fram, Wix, etc.).

 

[zuluplus30]

Your model year 5.3 had a tendency to become an oil burner. Bad PCV + bad AFM diverter valve/lifters= oil control rings cant keep up on the deactivated cylinders and eventually become trashed. Ask me how I know. My vote is for a high detergency synthetic (M1, PU, Amsoil SS) and short intervals.

 

[Toaster_Jer]

I have to say, I really do like the M1 5w-30 and especially the Amsoil Signature Series 0w-30.