So then why not just one oil???

[CanAmAndMore]

I had never thought about oil needing stirring...or that stuff settling to the bottom was a thing.

 

[wpod]

But it IS a matter of the base oil type, that's why carrier oils are used for the additive package because PAO and Group III, regardless of the viscosity, have poor solvency. Pointing out that Yubase 4 has better solvency than Yubase 8 is like pointing out that .223 has lower penetration than 5.56mm, ignoring the fact that the difference is so minute that it's immaterial. They both suck.

They all suck, all the PAO's, it doesn't matter which one you are looking at, hyper-focusing on the aniline point and ignoring this fact is bordering on trolling. That's why oils leveraging PAO as the primary base will use AN's and or Esters to not only deal with the seal shrink issue, but also add sufficiency solvency.

Again, Group III solvency is extremely poor, this is why carrier oils are used, to provide sufficiency solvency for the additive package and sometimes we STILL see settling out in the finished product, like with certain Shell products. This is also why your typical ILSAC oils, blended to a price point, are not good at cleaning. You need something highly polar, or with good solvency (esters or AN's) to actually solve deposits.
View attachment 157570
Important to note:


There is a huge spectrum of 0W-20's on the market ranging from minimal VII content to considerable VII content and this can be inferred from the VI of the finished product. If you've got two 0W-20 and one has a VI of 160 and the other one 212, you can be certain that the one with the higher VI has considerably higher VII content and lower viscosity base oils. This is very common with the Japanese OE 0W-20's like TGMO.

Here's a relatively low VI 0W-20 blended with Yubase, has 6.2% OCP VII. Note the 0W-30 has 9.2% VM:
View attachment 157566

Here are a number of them with VII content of 7.0%, also employing Yubase:
View attachment 157567

And another Yubase 0W-30, this time with 10% VM:
View attachment 157569

Here are some XOM examples, now note the 0W-30 has much lower VII content than the Yubase one, and the 0W-40 has lower VM content than the above Yubase 0W-30:
View attachment 157568

Overkill .. you out did your self on this post !!!

 

[FranklinJL]

A 600 hp civic must be a blast to drive.

It is. Its gutted $$%box. Big turbo, E85 etc....1 seat lol

 

[GMBoy]

YOLO ...

View attachment 158152

That might be a game changer for me!

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

They recommend them. These have sufficient HT/HS to prevent damage. I’d be more concerned with the SAPS level, I would not use either one in my Tiguan.

So an ACEA C3, BMW LL-04, Porsche C30, MB 229.51, VW 504/507 cert’d oil (mid-SAPS, obviously) is likely sufficient for anything recommending API SN+ or older?

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

A 600 hp civic must be a blast to drive.

I don’t know if you remember Stephanie Eggum, but back around 2004 she raced a Civic that had a big Precision Turbo on it, and Harry Hruska did her tuning. IIRC, I was told her B18 (I think? Been a while) was making around 1050HP at the crank. It ran mid 7s on the north side of 180, way back then. If she got a little crooked lining up the car, her spotter simply grabbed the wheelie bars and lifted the back of the car up and moved it over to get it straight.

That car picked up 43-44 mph on the second half of the track, really incredible!

 

[CanAmAndMore]

I don’t know if you remember Stephanie Eggum, but back around 2004 she raced a Civic that had a big Precision Turbo on it, and Harry Hruska did her tuning. IIRC, I was told her B18 (I think? Been a while) was making around 1050HP at the crank. It ran mid 7s on the north side of 180, way back then. If she got a little crooked lining up the car, her spotter simply grabbed the wheelie bars and lifted the back of the car up and moved it over to get it straight.

That car picked up 43-44 mph on the second half of the track, really incredible!

Never heard of her...but something to google.
I've spent most of my life either driving semi trucks, or working on them. Only recently had enough time and interest to look at the internet much, or join a forum.
My big trucks all use the same oil in my shop, as does my diesel pickup. The trucks engines claim to need different oils according to the manufacturers, but I have chosen to ignore that, and use the same oil in all of them.
Did the same thing many years ago when I had a lot more trucks to.
Never had an issue with the oil.
Planning to do the same thing for my gas powered stuff, from snowblower to cars to quads and outboards. That only leaves the weed whacker, chainsaw, and snowmobile needing something different, because they are 2 strokes. Those all get castrol snowmobile oil, no idea if its good or bad oil. Its easy to find and cheap at Canadian tire stores. After 20 or so years using it, I have no complaints.
I tend to buy lots of oil at a time, i hate shopping.
Now someone brings up the oil not staying mixed for long periods sitting on the shelf.
Makes me wonder what happened to the oils that sat in my shop for 2 or 3 years before I used them?!

 

[kschachn]

So an ACEA C3, BMW LL-04, Porsche C30, MB 229.51, VW 504/507 cert’d oil (mid-SAPS, obviously) is likely sufficient for anything recommending API SN+ or older?

Certainly would be for me.

 

[mahanddeem]

If it was me I'd vote for one oil for food and engine. Why don't we use Virgin olive oil in cars? Plus it so much cleaner and can be recycled better going to our fry pan after one OCI