So then why not just one oil???

I do wonder why Porsche and GM (C8) have settled on 0W-40s for their flagship cars sometimes. It seems like a strong 5W-30 or 40 would be better almost everywhere other than Siberia. The HPL No VII Euro 5W-30, Ravenol VMP, etc. have about the same HTHS as M1 FS 0W-40 and presumably far less VM.

I just mentioned this in another thread, but the Porsche M1 ESP X3 0W-40 in particular has a really high VI of 204 and 14.1 cSt KV100, 3.8 cP HTHS. Is this primarily to improve fuel economy during warm-up in the test cycles? I guess it makes sense viewed through the lens of having one oil for all regions (0W) and getting losses as low as possible in fuel economy tests.
I’m just going to come out and say it: I think the VI race to 200+ is dumb, and does not really offer any benefits that outweigh the possible downsides.

We’ve seen oils with very high VI (original TGMO, Eneos, now Mobil and a few others that appear very impressive on paper have results in UOAs that fall short of their promises when they’re poured into the sump. High Noack, lots of viscosity loss/mechanical shear, and possibly increased intake valve deposits, and internal engine deposits from said VM if the oil is not formulated with ANs & esters.

On the flip side, we have oils with lower VI and much less (or no) VIIs that have much lower Noack and maintain closer to the original viscosity much better even over extended intervals. Considering that the vast majority of the continental US never TRULY needs a 0w oil, I find it hard to reconcile the infatuation with oils that chase VI over maintaining grade & cleanliness over the full OCI.

In my admittedly non-professional opinion, it seems like the “sweet” spot for an oil could be in the 160-180 VI range. This allows the use of heavier base oils with minimal VII, and also minimizes the negatives associated with oils in the 200-220 VI range.

This just happens to be the same real estate occupied by HPL’s No VII oils.
 
I firmly believe it should be impossible for Mobil 1 of 1975-78. As you can observe, pure modern base PAO oil cannot possess such a characteristic. Considering M1 kinematic viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius around 7.4 cSt and even with 15% ester content, 2.8 cP is the maximum value one would expect.

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We'll have to ask Dave @High Performance Lubricants to see whether it's possible. Dr. Rudnick would certainly know and probably knows the details of that specific oil.
 
You would think. They used to use that grade, but then they started making 0w30 and 0w50 Racing oils that GM now uses. They claimed it was based on advancements they found. Beats me.
Racing oil seems tricky to me. As in, some people don’t care about longevity past the race or season or whatever and just want the lowest losses, while others might care about wear protection above all. Mobil says it’s for everyone on a track though so that helps 😂. The 0W-50 is weird, 3.9 HTHS and KV100 of 19.5. This has to be some kind of genius because otherwise it’s madness. I have to assume this is designed for real racing, no cats, no dual purpose cars and to extract the maximum horsepower.
 
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Excuse my ignorance, but why not use the appropriate single weight oil for racing? They don't do cold starts below freezing and probably run very hot almost all the time. Maybe quality single weights don't exist anymore.
 
Either of these a good oil?
Ooops i see i cut the edge off in the first pic, it is 0w40.
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The more I read about oil on here, honestly the more questions I have.
Instead of so many types, weights, etc.
Why not just sell full synthetic 0W40 for all cars?
Synthetic seems superior to dino, or semi synthetic.
But especially the weight aka thickness of the oils.
Just having 0W40 should cover everything correct?
Easy cold weather starts, good protection when hot i assume?

Am I over simplifying this?
Or should I just buy 0w40 for everything, and simplify my life.
i´ve seen article about service shops should not use acea c3 for all cars.
bla bla carmakers require bla bla bla, each has specific requirements bla bla bla, etc etc etc. :D

xw30+midsaps+hths3,5 is stout enough to me...no engine should blow up.
i doubt any garage shop will have on stock from each type oil drum....financial suicide.
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0w or 5w, i´m not going to lose my sleep over that.
i have not seen <14*f in looong time
 
One reason today is MDS and VVT systems that use oil as a hydraulic fluid to function.


Just because something works doesn't mean it's optimal.

Of course, I have TWO cars and both spec 0W20, so that odd quart of 10W30 for the lawn mower and power washer don't play a big role in things.

To the guy who bought a drum, how much oil does he use in a year? I'd be concerned about it aging if it cannot be consumed in a year.

I'm just as willing to overthink things as the next BITOG member, so I'm not throwing a stone here.
I was thinking the same thing about the 55gal drum. I do enough oil changes to merit a drum but I won't use them for fear of the additives dropping out and having to stir the oil to be certain there's a proper mix going into an engine. I might be wrong but I prefer oil out of the jug.
 
I was thinking the same thing about the 55gal drum. I do enough oil changes to merit a drum but I won't use them for fear of the additives dropping out and having to stir the oil to be certain there's a proper mix going into an engine. I might be wrong but I prefer oil out of the jug.
YOLO ...

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