"Snow" Engine vs. Normal Engine

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E365

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Is there anything really special to a replacment "snow" engine vs. a standard engine? I see the little differences listed (big starter handle, primer bulb, snow resistant recoil assembly, etc), but anything major that you really need the "snow" engine, like a different carb?

I got an old two-stage blower for free that didn't run. It has a Tecumseh H60 that I got running for a few minutes (simple ignition problem) then it made a nasty clunk/bang and now it no longer has compression. My guess is the connecting rod broke which I have read is common with the H60. The body/controls/auger of the blower are good, minus a little surface rust. I figure that might as well be saved.

Anyways, I'm looking at the Northern Tool catalog and an 11.5 ft-lb. Briggs Snow Series MAX engine is $455. An 11.5 ft-lb. Brigggs 1150 series is only $289.99. Any reason a "standard" engine can't be used succesfully on a snowblower in the cold. Would it start OK in the cold without the primer bulb? I don't see one on the Briggs 1150 series.

* Assuming it bolts-up properly and has the right shaft size, of course *

Thanks!
 
Could be the way the carburetor is setup for cold weather use. Most snowblowers don't run air filters. This could be because the air filter element will get wet with snow during use, so they rejet the carbs to run without one. I still dont see how this almost doubles the cost of the engine.

FWIW- A member on here just repowered a Toro with a Chonda.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut

FWIW- A member on here just repowered a Toro with a Chonda.


That was me and it works great. The choke really helps it start and needs to be released halfway a second into running. Draws air from below the air filter cover; doesn't pull snow in from what I've seen. No ice clogging the starter rope.

Motor works better than the rest of the machine; I get melted-snow ice blocking the chute swivel for example.

I think "snow" engines are in low stock now. If you can wait for spring you might see some better sales.
 
Snow blower engines typically have shrouding that keeps the engine warm(er) than a regular engine/shroud does/would. It also typically directs some of that warm air toward the carburetor. This helps with carb freeze up.
The carb linkage and so forth are also 'inside' the shroud to keep them clear of snow/ice.
 
Tecumseh was the largest provider of snowblower engines. When it went out of business, another company took up production. A short block for a Tecumseh "snow" engine is on backorder for at least 8 months. Others may be taking advantage of the non-availability.
 
HF 6.5HP engine, about $100 on sale/coupon; couple of workmates upgraded their snow throwers with that engine and they couldn't be any happier.
 
Originally Posted By: E365
I got an old two-stage blower for free that didn't run. It has a Tecumseh H60 that I got running for a few minutes (simple ignition problem) then it made a nasty clunk/bang and now it no longer has compression. My guess is the connecting rod broke which I have read is common with the H60.

Interesting. A few weeks ago my 39-year old Ariens also did a clunk-bang and has no compression. It threw a rod and poked a hole in the crankcase. Further inspection in the lab shows the connecting rod fatigued at the crank bearing end.

I don't see cold starting as an issue. The carb on mine has no air filter, so if priming or volatility is ever an issue, I could spray starting fluid straight down into the carb.

I paid $100 for mine. In my case I plan to scrap the Ariens and look for something again on Craigslist.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas

I paid $100 for mine. In my case I plan to scrap the Ariens and look for something again on Craigslist.


Not knowing the shape of the rest of your blower, I would not be so quick to recycle.

Try offering it up on CL for ~$75, there might be someone willing to make one from two.

I sold my wheezy old tecumseh motor that I had replaced on CL to a guy who couldn't even get it started! He said "It has compression and that's good enough for me!" OK sir!
 
Isn't that Tecumseh H60 only a ~6HP engine in the first place? If so, I'd be real tempted to do what the earlier poster suggested and just swap it with a $100 HF 6.5HP.
 
I'm not sure what any of the specs are on this old H60, but you're probably right. A 6.5 HP replacement should do it. Does H60 mean 6.0 HP?

Anyhow, I didn't even think of Harbor Freight! I see that 6.5 HP. Looks like a good deal. Especially on something I'll be happy to get 5-7 years out of. Northern Tool also sells a 208cc/6.5 HP "Storm Force" snow engine for $259.99. Probably the same cheapo Chinese junker, so I might as well buy the much cheaper Harbor Freight engine. Thanks guys!

On another note, I started to take the unit apart to measure the old engine shaft. I found that the square key and bolt were missing from the engine pulley. That would sure explain why it was so weak at throwing snow for the short amount of time I did have it running.

I think I'll also consider the Kohler Snow Pro engine they sell at Northern. It's $279, but I have a $50 gift card there that I need to use. $229 isn't too bad.
 
Last edited:
I'm going to go with the Harbor Freight engine. Found the coupon, $99, can't beat that deal. The reviews on the Harbor Freight website are excellent ( if they can be trusted). I'll post some pictures!

I think I'll get it running ASAP then do a full rebuild and paint on the chassis this summer. I have a long driveway and we are having the second snowiest winter so far in Minneapolis. I shoveled 17" in Dec. and 20" yesterday. My back is killing me!
frown.gif
 
You guys got me thinking that a new engine from Harbor Freight is the way to go. I thought engines were more like $250, instead of the $150 from HF. I'd first like to go through the unit after the season and make sure the rest of the unit is in good shape and worthy of a rebuild.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Interesting. A few weeks ago my 39-year old Ariens also did a clunk-bang and has no compression. It threw a rod and poked a hole in the crankcase. Further inspection in the lab shows the connecting rod fatigued at the crank bearing end.

I don't see cold starting as an issue. The carb on mine has no air filter, so if priming or volatility is ever an issue, I could spray starting fluid straight down into the carb.

I paid $100 for mine. In my case I plan to scrap the Ariens and look for something again on Craigslist.

"upon further investigation in the lab" i like that.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
How do I know what horsepower my unit takes? I believe it's either 4 or 6 HP.


Do you have a blower model number? Often the first digit is the HP and the next couple the inches wide. So a 724 is a 7hp with two foot cut.

Also if you go by base mounting hole pattern, the HF greyhound 6.5 hp is a "small block" that tecumseh 7hp and less also bolt up to. 8hp and up tecs have a larger bolt pattern.

The HF motor doesn't weigh much and won't upset your machine's balance... if it's overpowered you'll just have to resist temptation to run it wide open. Though I'm confident an old Ariens will be overbuilt...
 
Thanks, I'll check that out. Meanwhile, I'm looking at the HF engines. My old engine has two shafts on the horizontal... the main shaft from the crank, and another one two inches away protruding from the camshaft. Both have pulleys. The HF engine has only the main shaft. Any ideas how am I going to deal with that?
 
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