Sneak-peek @ Auto-RX PLUS cleaning after 1,400 mi

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Originally Posted By: Mystic
And I am smart enough to know that this thread is about trying to find a product that will clean inside an engine and not merely raise compression.


It makes sense. As a medic in the Army, if my boss came to me and told me to clean the aid station to make it run more efficiently, it wouldn't matter how efficient I made it if it still appeared messy or dirty or disorganized.
 
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That is right. You could be running the most efficient aid station in the world but it needs to look efficient also. A product that cleans should do more than just increase compression. It should clean throughout the engine. Raising compression is nice but oil lines need to be cleaned up of sludge so that they do not plug up. A cleaning product should CLEAN. Everybody knows that and even if somebody calls us stupid we know exactly what a cleaning product is supposed to do. Smart people know that a cleaning product cleans.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Artem was looking for visual results, none of the products he tried delivered that for him. I think almost all of us agree on that?


Simple Green and some wipes
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Originally Posted By: Trajan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Artem was looking for visual results, none of the products he tried delivered that for him. I think almost all of us agree on that?


Simple Green and some wipes
smile.gif



Maybe you're onto something. It certainly is thinking out of the box.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Trajan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Artem was looking for visual results, none of the products he tried delivered that for him. I think almost all of us agree on that?


Simple Green and some wipes
smile.gif



Maybe you're onto something. It certainly is thinking out of the box.


LOL

So far, oil adds failed. The oil that they were used with failed. I think we're at the point it's either manual cleaning or take the head off and give it a bath.

The former is much cheaper and easier.
 
Originally Posted By: Trajan


LOL

So far, oil adds failed. The oil that they were used with failed. I think we're at the point it's either manual cleaning or take the head off and give it a bath.

The former is much cheaper and easier.


That appears to be the case here. At this point if the PU doesn't work I think I'd punt, pull the VC clean as much as I safely could by hand and call it a day. Or continue experimenting with other oils, or cleaners, and toss more fuel into the Bitog fire. So far I learned what hasn't worked in Artem's engine.
 
Yes, if the Pennzoil Ultra does not work about all that is left is physically cleaning the engine. Even if the Pennzoil Ultra does work somewhat I think parts of this engine would still have to be physically cleaned.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
Yes, if the Pennzoil Ultra does not work about all that is left is physically cleaning the engine. Even if the Pennzoil Ultra does work somewhat I think parts of this engine would still have to be physically cleaned.


Which achieves nothing, still. Some people have way to much spare time on their hands............
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
Yes, if the Pennzoil Ultra does not work about all that is left is physically cleaning the engine. Even if the Pennzoil Ultra does work somewhat I think parts of this engine would still have to be physically cleaned.


At this point it seems he is just experimenting, nothing wrong with that its interesting.
IMHO there is nothing about this engine that "needs" cleaning, it runs great and aside from a little harmless staining will continue to do so for a long time.
 
another +1 for MMO
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I'm a fan....yes....but this block has some serious work...really, I don't think anything other than a tear down and chemdip will be able to clean this up...lol.

As mentioned, it took elbow grease (a le screwdriver) to actually flake away the gunk.



Other candidate that would be neat to see, is Berryman's B-12 CHEMTOOL
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Though it's no longer bottled as a crankcase use, I've read, and also confirmed from Berryman themself that it is safe, as long as you add no more than half the bottle to the crankcase. The big issue though, is it has no measuring device, and it's a steel can...so a lot of people were overdosing and causing problems, so they took those directions off the can :X
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn

Other candidate that would be neat to see, is Berryman's B-12 CHEMTOOL
smile.gif
Though it's no longer bottled as a crankcase use, I've read, and also confirmed from Berryman themself that it is safe, as long as you add no more than half the bottle to the crankcase. The big issue though, is it has no measuring device, and it's a steel can...so a lot of people were overdosing and causing problems, so they took those directions off the can :X


I've thought about B12. Strong stuff, best likely used as a flush. Maybe the half can dose would be okay for a day or two of use.

How do you use it? I've used MMO in the past it doesn't scare me like B12, MMO is much milder.
 
It is interesting to me that this car runs as well as it does considering what the inside of that engine looks like.
 
Originally Posted By: greenjp
Originally Posted By: Artem
Thoughts and or comments?

Areas that are splashed with oil occasionally don't get cleaned by chemicals in the oil. The fact that some of the products you've used are in fact effective (at times) doing things like cleaning piston rings, stopping seal leaks, generically improving engine smoothness, etc, suggests that pressure and friction are as important to the cleaning process as the chemicals themselves. That you're so easily able to remove the deposits with your screwdriver is further proof.

This is why pictures of valve covers and oil pans are of limited usefulness in determining the value of the products. Now where's Mystic to
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jeff


Correct, but contents of pan and condition of oil pump intake screen filter can be very significant and different to top end.
Serious varnish often results from overheating caused by poor oil or coolant flow around block, often looks darker. Sludge forms restricting oil flow, carbon build up increases viscosity too high for top end, then oil than is past drain by time deposits varnish.
First picture is good, light staining or varnish prevents corrosion and helps oil seals in high time engine.

I never buy real old engine that looks 100% clean top and bottom from inspectors bore scope. Some dipstick might have rinsed it with petrol etc. Good chance seals and gaskets leak and block damaged from serious sludge problem before clean up, oil thickner to stop death rattles and for sale sign!
 
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