Check out Wix 24076 or Napa 4076 filter base. They take 3/4 x 16 filters. If you use a filter with a ADV, no check valve is needed. I like your needle valve plan. Put it on the outlet side and you won't have to worry about it cloging up.
small engine bypass filtering.
- Thread starter FireChicken
- Start date
The correct oil hole size for a bypass filter is 1/16".
I have the same black Motorguard filter. You can use a TP roll inside. Needs to be slimmed down n the outside, and I 'bush' it on the inside with center tubes slit from old TP rolls. And I use the original plastic filter holders. It works. You can use a soldered brass fitting drilled to 1/16" hole screwed into the bottom of these things.
Another option for the old Kohler would be just invest in an oil-extractor and have two or three sumps-worth of oil "in cycle" between the sump and a simple gravity TP filtration system.
If you fit a bypass filter system to the engine, you might want to have a petcock on the inlet so that you can isolate the filter to make sure of maintaining pressure on startup, and to prevent drain back into the sump. Depending on how much oil is in the lines and the bypass filter, there could be an issue with that oil draining into the sump between startups.
Go over to www.smokstak.com and you'll find lots of info and probably parts for your Kohler.
First thing would be a copy of the manual, and run the grade of oil Kohler recommended: probably straight 30W non-detergent in those days.
If you fit a bypass filter system to the engine, you might want to have a petcock on the inlet so that you can isolate the filter to make sure of maintaining pressure on startup, and to prevent drain back into the sump. Depending on how much oil is in the lines and the bypass filter, there could be an issue with that oil draining into the sump between startups.
Go over to www.smokstak.com and you'll find lots of info and probably parts for your Kohler.
First thing would be a copy of the manual, and run the grade of oil Kohler recommended: probably straight 30W non-detergent in those days.
Last edited:
I would run a good HDEO like Rotella T6 15w40 and change it regularly. Add a magnetic drain plug if it makes you feel better, but I really wouldn't attempt to put in some kind of aftermarket filtering system, which will have very little benefit and more risk for issues.
The standard size orifice for bypass filters is 1/16 inch since the 1920s. I use 1/16 inch in everything I own including lawn mowers. I run a 1/8 inch pipe tap into the female end of a brass 1/4 inch male to female adapter. Put a allen wrench plug in and drill it 1/16 inch. Frantz isnt the best design but it is the easiest to find used. Some are finding the old M 100 Motor Guard. The old compressed air filters have 1/4 inch ports and a coating. The black ones are newer models.
I've got a 12v ebay electric gear pump and use down to a 2 micron hydraulic filter. I put it on new engines until they're broken in. Run the oil pump for a few minutes before I shut it off gets all the metal bits out of the oil.
I'm looking at using more like 0.025 to 0.04 inch. Filtering a quart per minute is plenty.
I found on some engines I was losing oil pressure when the oil was hot at idle if I went much bigger than 40 thousands.
If your engine goes straight to run speed then 1/16 is likely fine.
I was mowing grass yesterday. Im thinking the toilet paper filter and the Ford full flow filter havent been changed in over ten years. The oil looks good. Had to change the oil and toilet paper filter for the first on the 03 20 HP Kohler. The fuel pump went bad. I put a electric fuel pump on it and filled the oil with gasoline. Thought it might be time to adjust the valves. Removed a valve cover. It has hydraulic valve lifters. What I could see looked new.
I use a 1/16 inch orifice in everything including the lawn mowers. I have used a .025
The origional Motor Guards were designed to use toilet paper when toilet paper was 4 1/2 inches tall and had a 1 1/2 imch core. The same as the Motor Guard factory elements. I put a factory Motor Guard element in a M 30 Motor Guard housing the other day. It seemed too small to me. I would probably put a few rounds more on It. In its day i figured the Motor Guard was the best available. Most people think proper maintenance is allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it.
Similar threads
