Sludge & low OP with M1 0w-40 @10k, Audi 1.8t

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Here is a letter I got today from a guy I know on AudiWorld and also my reply. Any ideas or input would be helpfull. This kinda sucks if Mobil 1 did not do the job, we have seen it go 19k in a Cayenne Turbo...I wonder what the insoluables level was. I would have gone for 7500mi/6mo or GC, but now it is what it is. What do ya think?
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potential oil sludge problem, need some help (paging junkie)
User account number (aid): 34761
Posted by A4-Freddy on 2005-05-07 20:38:46
Have an '02 1.8t with 75k miles.. been following Audi's service interval recommendations, oil change every 10k with Mobil1 0w40.

On a spirited drive up a long grade 4 months ago my oil pressure warning indication came on near the top. I stopped for a while on the side of the road (30 minutes), checked oil level (fine, but dirty!) and then resumed driving. Indicator continued to come on and off for the 30 remainder of the drive however. I was out of town, so the next day I took the car to a quick lube shop and had an oil change with Mobil 1 done. Even on the short drive to the shop the indicator came on again about halfway there.

After the oil change the indicator did not come back on immediately. I have since however noticed a few changes:
1. on cold startup the car makes a bit of rattling and clicking for the first minute or so that gradually fades. This doesn't happen when the car is started hot. I don't remember hearing this before, but I may not have been listening very closely either.
2. when accelerating through certain gears the engine makes a quick rattle/buzz at around 2800 rpm. Happens more frequently in the lower gears, also is louder and more pronounced as the car warms up. I don't hear it at all when cold. A mechanic changed out the alternator thinking that was the problem. It wasn't.
3. was about 7000 miles into the oil change I mentioned above, and started getting oil pressure warnings again. I notice it generally happens when the car is hot (driven for at least 15 minutes) and going up grades. Level grades will make it go back out. The longer I drive, the more frequently it will happen.

It started coming more often within the course of a few days, and I was out of town when the third symptom above happened again, so went in again for an oil change hoping for some relief. Didn't have mobile1 handy, so I had the shop put in 5w30 dino (I believe).

Within about 20 minutes it started happening again, although it is not as bad as before the change.

Any thoughts you can offer on the above behavior would be appreciated.

Also thinking of trying the auto-rx product, should I go get another change with Mobil1 before cleaning, or start my clean phase with the dino oil? I know this might be hard to guess at, but might that product help with the existing oil flow issue right away? Should I have something else done (now) like a solvent flush before I get started? I don't know anything about those, opinions seem to be mixed, so any advice there would be appreciated. Should I use something else besides 0w40 until I can get things cleaned up?

Sorry for the novel, thanks in advance for any insight.

Reply>
You need more help than just mine.Sludge w/Mobil 1 @10k can only happen if there is another problem.

Oh boy. It seems like you have an issue there.

Maybe my experience with a female friend's '98 1.8t can help. I NOW maintain her car that prior *supposedly* got Mobil 1 once yearly. It got sludged and needed an oil pump. (btw- I still treat it with ARX to get the residual sludge out, so get some even if the dealer services you car with an oil pump chgange) It could have been short trips, it could be the corner garage was ripping them off and putting in dino. (most likely) It also could be one of the outside influences that can make sludge. Some of the possibilities are: Stuck thermostat, bad PCV, open vac hose, maybe low levels.

Now, I cannot say **** about what is happening with your car, but something is definately happening. I would never drive with low OP light. You should take it in for a diagnosis. Can you see under the valve cover if there is any visible sludge? Kinda hard to see there. I suggest looking through a bore scope through the oil drain plug, but my mechanic bitched it would mess up his scope when I suggested this.

If you want to treat with chemicals here is what I'd do:

Get some SeaFoam from PepZone.
DO a 1/2 can in oil for 10 minutes at idle.
Drain and refill with ANY cheap oil. WalMart Supertech is an excellent product. (I can recommend the synth 10w-30 for normal use, meets A3)
Do the other 1/2 can the same way and drain.

Change filter and refill with either---
Auto-RX (whole bottle) and dino oil like Pennzoil or Havoline. (5w-30) and follow the instructions with a follow-up dino rinse after 2000 mi. If you encounter the Shell Rotella t synth 5w-40 (in the diesel oil section @ WalMart, it's a hit for the actual ARX application)
-OR-
Just go to Mobil 1 5w-40 SUV and hope for the best.

I am sorry to hear this and would like for you to follow-up for reference. I would seriously get it looked at before I relied on chemical treatments, they probally WILL save it, but it's a gamble. Since you had documented 10k changes with approved oil, just get warranty service.

-Clark
 
AJ, you just recommended M1 0W-40 to a 12v fella!
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While I'm no fan of M1 0W-40, I know there are many 1.8T using that oil without any problems. Something else is going on with that guy's engine. Who knows, maybe he used to use 5W-30 dino and now his crank bearings are shot.
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Running the poop out of it then driving with the warning light is bad. Now it rattles when he starts it...well he broke it. Maybe he can pour in some heavier oil for the short term, but it sure sounds like it's broke to me.
 
I use the M1 T&S which is 5w-40. I DO NOT go beyond 5000 mile OCI's period. I don't care what the manual says. these small hot burning engines are **** on oil and I am going to follow what has worked for me for so many years. Synthetic fluids only and no longer than 5000 mile OCI's. It sounds like this guy's motor is headed for the big Audi engine dump in the sky.
 
Several 10K OCIs on hilly terrain eh!. Did he drive short trips or long? How long to accumulate 10K? I have-yet to go beyond 8K with any good synthetic having a driving mixture of long & short trips accumulating 1K a month.

I'm going to assume that the lube shop did install synthetic... not dino. Too bad we're not reading a UOA on the used Mobil-1 oil. So the lack of investing in an additional $5 per month into that fine foreign car to get the oil changed one more time each year likely would of averted this crisis - since there's no evidence the engine had non-oil related problems.

It's a shame that someone would pay a premium price on a car -- then skimp on the minimal oil maintenance costs.

[ May 08, 2005, 10:12 AM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]
 
We are really leaping to conclusions here. There is no diagonsis, no idea what the problem is or if there is an engine problem.

Diagnose first, fix second.
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quote:

Originally posted by Triple_Se7en:
It's a shame that someone would pay a premium price on a car -- then skimp on the minimal oil maintenance costs.

You're being a bit harsh on him. He's just following his owner's manual that tells him to change it every 10K miles. He's not doing it out of neglect or to save a buck. He's doing what the manufacturer tells him to do. The fact that it may not be the best for his engine is another story.
 
Anyone that has been around VW's for the last few years knows that the oil level/pressure senders have been very unreliable.

Also the recent crop of VWs burn oil. And I am not talking about the one year when they got some rings mixed up at the factory.
I am talking about most cars from late 90s to the present. M1, 0w-40 is in two of my late model VWs and both these consume one litre every 2000 kms.

Maybe he was an ex Honda owner and never checked his oil and he ran low.

I think that M1,0w-40 will burn more in these cars and I am about to switch to 5w-40 in the hopes of reducing consumption.

I have seen numerous late model VWs run empty of oil by the university crowd who just put gas in when needed and thats it.
 
If someone's having sludge problem with 10k OCIs and M1 0W-40, ever stop to wonder if something other than oil quality is causing it?

For example, coolant leak into oil can cause rapid sludging.

Prescription: Take a UOA and call Terry Dyson in the morning. Thank me later.

Just repeating what was already said here... diagnose, then fix.
 
First thing to do is get a presure reading with a presure guage. If he has truly been changeing the oil every 10,000 miles from day one with M1 0W40 I do not see sludge as an issue. The only way he would have a sludge issue in it is if he has had a coolant leak for a while!It is really hard to get a PAO in a daily driver to sludge up! It is possable but so unlikely. HE could have a bad oil pump or cracked pickup tube. If his main bearings were bad his oil pressure would be low almost contantly. If his rod bearings were bad he would have good idle pressure but his pressure would decrease with RPM.

I would check that sender first thing. I would ask about coolant top ups.If he has enough sludge in the pan to obstruct the pickup or enough to open the clearances on his pump their has to be sludge in the head too. It is easy to pull a valve cover or even peak in it. It is just as easy to bore scope the bottom end after the oil plug is pulled.

If this is a sludge issue I would use a deactivated solvent type flush like Schaffers N 131 becasue you have to get some flow quickly! Then after 500 miles of that I would go to Auto-Rx! Auto-Rx is the cats meow but it works slowly. Back when I was a young aprentice we would put Motul 5W20 Flushing Oil in the car.
 
Didn't Audi replace a bunch of engines, issue strict oil specifications, and drop the OCI to 5K miles because of this exact problem? This engine in the A4 and Passat has been a sludge nightmare. Even with a good synthetic, 10K is just far too long in this motor.
 
from my oil reports 5K on this engine is plenty, maybe 6 at the outside. The turbo is hard on oil and the sump is small, the 2.7T was much easier on oil in my S4 but the sump was almost twice that of the 1.8. I would never go 10K on this engine unless it was all easy highway miles like I might run in Kansas.
 
I seriously doubt this guy was seriously on the maintenance of this car.Either that or his "quick lube place" has been sticking it to him with dino fills when he paid for M1.
 
Remember guys, OC during warranty period means Audi dealer service. Not much chance an Audi dealer tech is going to gag him on the fluid.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Audi Junkie:
I was out of town, so the next day I took the car to a quick lube shop and had an oil change with Mobil 1 done. Even on the short drive to the shop the indicator came on again about halfway there.

Umm, does he even know if he has been getting M1!!!?? I recall audi having problems with dealers using bulk dino oil when they should have been using synth. Something is up on this car and blaming the oil at this point is like saying that your tires are horrible because they keep going flat. Without additional information, the conclusion has been drawn without any supportable evidence.
 
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