Well, used oil yes.Or how much beating your skin is able to withstand from carcinogens in engine oils.
Well, used oil yes.Or how much beating your skin is able to withstand from carcinogens in engine oils.
When I added Schaeffer Moly EP to my trucks oil that is the most slippery oil I have ever felt even when used. I think one of Shaeffers oil has the Moly EP already in the oil or its additives if you want a blended oil. Not sure but I would guess it is the Antimony in it.
Why should I believe a "great" mechanic? "Great" means what - they fixed your car?I, to this day, hear mechanics say synthetic oil is "slipperier" than conventional. There are more otherwise great or decent mechanics out there than you would believe.
Is some oil more slippery than others that meet the same spec and have similar approvals? For example, would all API SP oils be equally as slippery? Is there an oil term that describes "slipperiness?"
Well, a mechanic then, lol. They may or may not be handy with fixing cars in an expedient manner, lol.Why should I believe a "great" mechanic? "Great" means what - they fixed your car?
You use a completely subjective term to describe a mechanic, and expect me to believe this source over someone like Tom who makes oil for a living?
I once heard an ASE-certified mechanic, who had over 30 years of experience, tell me that I couldn't use 0W30 in my Toyota 4 Runner. An exact quote "That oil is too thin on start, you won't have enough oil pressure until it warms up".
A great mechanic?
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the most slippery stuff
I, to this day, hear mechanics say synthetic oil is "slipperier" than conventional. There are more otherwise great or decent mechanics out there than you would believe.
Have you ever felt Moly EP? I have felt several brands of oil over the years and additives-stp, lucas, various liqui moly, rislone, hot shot, super techs and more but nothing compares to how it feels. My assumption of the antimony being that cause is a educated guess as none of them have that much of the antimony additive in them as the Moly EP. Have felt zddp, moly, tungsten and blended ester anti friction additives and they do not even come close to it. When seperate or mixed in oil it is the slickest oil/additive I have ever felt.I want to know how antimony makes oil more slippery.
Most mechanics don't know crap about oil, lots of wives tales. Along with synthetic oil is slipperier than conventional, I've heard synthetic flows better in cold temperatures (not true when comparing the same winter rating oil), synthetic oil will cause leaks in an engine that's used conventional, you can't switch between conventional and synthetic, and that's just the synthetic vs conventional oil myths. I know a master tech who says trans fluid shouldn't be changed over 100k miles, I regularly service transmissions near or at 100k and the customers are always satisfied with the improvement in shift quality.I, to this day, hear mechanics say synthetic oil is "slipperier" than conventional. There are more otherwise great or decent mechanics out there than you would believe.
Ravenol uses Tungsten, and, so does HPL (and I'm sure a few others). FM's can be complimentary, so it may actually be more effective when mixed with moly.What makes tungsten disulfide so great and if so why isn’t it in every motor oil?
Have you ever felt Moly EP? I have felt several brands of oil over the years and additives-stp, lucas, various liqui moly, rislone, hot shot, super techs and more but nothing compares to how it feels. My assumption of the antimony being that cause is a educated guess as none of them have that much of the antimony additive in them as the Moly EP. Have felt zddp, moly, tungsten and blended ester anti friction additives and they do not even come close to it. When seperate or mixed in oil it is the slickest oil/additive I have ever felt.
The "Starts off as a 5 and warms up to a 30" one is one I hear parroted a lot.It's not just mechanics. Engine builders, even well known ones, spread a lot of myths and misconceptions. I have to remind people that engine builders are not tribologists, especially at the mass production crate engine shops. Someone slaps parts together per a recipe, do a quick function check, and send it out the door. They couldn't tell you the ring tension or cylinder to wall clearance, much less the hone profile or anything related to lubrication regimes. The builders that do understand that stuff aren't building crate engines.
But 0W-16 is closer to "like water" ... except 0W-8 is even a step closer.Also.. that 0W-20 is "like water!" Really doesn't mean anything, that one.
But 0W-16 is closer to "like water" ... except 0W-8 is even a step closer.![]()
Maybe you should try it.I don’t going around feeling things.
I also don’t use additives.
Which one? Because oil chemistry is complicated and just randomly adding crap to it can actually make the formula overall worse. In fact, the odds are pretty low that you are objectively making anything better, given a properly balanced formula in the first place.Maybe you should try it.