Silicone ADBV always orange?

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I had a look at the Motorcraft FL-1A filter in a china mart the other day, and saw the thread end bypass, but the ADBV was black.

I thought I read on here that MC filters were all thread end bypass, made by Purolator and had silicone ADBV's.

Even if it is a Nitrile ADBV, for a 4 $ filter I was impressed. Unless Efficiency ratings are sub par or something, I'd buy this over my standard puro classic 30001, every time.

Unless I get a deal on something special, like the M1-301
 
As a general rule, yes. I've seen one exception, the Royal Purple OF has a purple silicone adbv. Also never seen a black silicone adbv, black is an indication of nitrile adbv.

Safe to assume that since Motorcraft uses orange/red silicone adbv's in other filters, the FL-1A uses nitrile.
 
Motorcraft uses a S to designate if the filter uses a silicone ADBV , hence FL-400s, FL-820s. FL-1 has no s designation and lacks a silicon ADBV.
 
^^^ Yep ^^^ ... S designator = Silicone ADBV.

Also, there are a few Motorcraft filters out there that do not have a base end bypass valve, but rather in the dome end (ie, FL-822).
 
The Mann-filters I have for the Toyotas and the Renault OEM filter (Purflux) both have a white silicone ADBV. Haven't come across a black silicone ADBV.
 
It is true that Motorcraft uses the S suffix to designate silicone adbv. That said, afaik the FL-1A is unique in that it has thread end bypass like the majority of for FoMoCo applications but yet uses a nitrile adbv. The other Motorcraft filters using nitrile adbv have dome end bypass, making them identical in appearance inside to the Purolator Classic. Rather an interesting finding and makes one wonder why no silicone adbv in the FL-1A.
 
MC is like the P1 except it has less media like the Classic.

Here is where someone takes over and discusses efficiency vs. flow (and capacity).
 
Thank you for the replies.

Does the thread end bypass reduce the size of the media cartridge in the spin on applications vs the dome end bypass?
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
Thank you for the replies.

Does the thread end bypass reduce the size of the media cartridge in the spin on applications vs the dome end bypass?


I know in the WIX and NAPA Gold filters with base bypass valves it certainly does eat up media real estate. Not sure on the Motorcraft ... it depends on the design of the valve assy.
 
I have used filters with both rubber and silicone ADBV's. I have had both types let the oil drain out and both types hold the oil. You have to find one that works for you and not worry over what the ADBV material is.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
If they'd make an FL-1AS I'd buy a case of them.


It's called a Mopar filter. Made by Purolator also I think.
 
Quote:
MC is like the P1 except it has less media like the Classic.

Here is where someone takes over and discusses efficiency vs. flow (and capacity).

Actually the majority P1's and Classic are rated more efficient (99.9 and 97.5@20um) than the Motorcraft FL820S tested in the Amsoil test of oems, ~94@20um. and based on my experience with dissections of Classic as compared to P1, it's not that Classic a has less media, just a different media, not as efficient as P1. It's what river_rat found in his testing too. Not saying the MC isn't a good filter, just different media than either the P1 and/or Classic.

As for flow, from reading this board and ZeeOSix's comments, being as the engine itself is ~15x more restrictive than the filter, I don't concern myself with the flow aspect of an oil filter. In fact, the flow vs efficiency argument in pc use is a non starter for me. Seems more like an excuse for an inefficient oil filter.

Also thanks to ZO6 for posting the link below in another thread today, the now much posted PureOne Flow vs PSID thread showing the P1 to have excellent flow along with filtration, is proof that having both solid efficiency and excellent flow is possible.

As for MC thread end bypass as compared to Wix, in my observation the MC uses a design the extends down into the centertube and doesn't take up space like the Wix. All the Wix actual bypass portion is external to the media cartridge/centertube, taking up more space in the can.

PureONE Flow vs. PSID Data from Purolator
 
Originally Posted By: 229
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
If they'd make an FL-1AS I'd buy a case of them.


It's called a Mopar filter. Made by Purolator also I think.


The Mopar's have the same black nitrile ADBV the FL-1A's do. Both excellent filters still, but I like the Motorcraft "S" filters even better, I wish they made an FL-1A version.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
As for MC thread end bypass as compared to Wix, in my observation the MC uses a design the extends down into the centertube and doesn't take up space like the Wix. All the Wix actual bypass portion is external to the media cartridge/centertube, taking up more space in the can.


I've never really dissected any Motorcraft filters with a base end bypass valve, but it does look like it doesn't take away media space like the WIX (NAPA Gold) does. After I saw how much media space the WIX took up, I stopped using them. I'm not too concerned if a filter has a base end or dome end bypass valve anyway, so I will use either.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Rather an interesting finding and makes one wonder why no silicone adbv in the FL-1A.


It is probably just the way they always did it. After all, the FL-1A dates from when ADBVs were uncommon, so a nitrile ADBV was a definite upgrade.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Rather an interesting finding and makes one wonder why no silicone adbv in the FL-1A.


It is probably just the way they always did it. After all, the FL-1A dates from when ADBVs were uncommon, so a nitrile ADBV was a definite upgrade.
wink.gif


Hey, that's as good an explanation as any for the one (that I'm aware of) thread end bypass MC with nitrile adbv. I wondered if it was perhaps because many/most of the applications are verticle base end up. If you look at Donaldson, they are considered a quality synthetic media filter but they use nitrile adbv's too.
 
Well, back in the day, the original filter model was the CFL-1, with the FL-1A being the upgrade. I remember specifically reading those suggestions in my 1983 Ford LTD manual. The filter was oriented horizontally, and both models were listed in the manual.

A few filters I used at the time (Wix for instance) didn't have an ADBV (the 51515 certainly does now, and silicone to boot). Basically, my only feasible options at the time for the car were the Motorcraft FL-1A from the dealer or the AC Delco at Walmart. The car definitely made noise when starting with a filter lacking the ADBV.

Perhaps the newer model (FL-1A versus CFL-1) was due to a few customer complaints about noise on horizontally mounted filters. Maybe more of the original CFL-1 applications were vertically mounted, and as horizontally mounted filters became more common in Fords (most of mine were horizontally mounted), complaints started to grow. I've also mentioned in other threads that the manuals and literature c. 1983 characterized the FL-1A as a long life filter.

I don't know, just a shot in the dark. But, I was happy to find any ADBV for the noisy LTD. It also did make oil changes significantly less messy.
wink.gif
 
A filter mounted base up requires no ADBV. My OEM Mazda filters have none. In fact, I tend to think an ADBV just gets in the way of oil flow when it is not needed. Maybe the reason my Honda filter drained at times was that it was mounted horizontally. I almost doubt that ANY ADBV can hold oil in the filter forever when it's mounted like that.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
A filter mounted base up requires no ADBV. My OEM Mazda filters have none. In fact, I tend to think an ADBV just gets in the way of oil flow when it is not needed. Maybe the reason my Honda filter drained at times was that it was mounted horizontally. I almost doubt that ANY ADBV can hold oil in the filter forever when it's mounted like that.


Base on the test I did in this thread, I'd say the ABDV on this particular filter could hold oil "forever".

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...807#Post2042807
 
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