Virgin Champ XL PH2840XL C&P - Toyota 90915-YZZN1 equivalent

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Up on the workbench today is a Champ XL PH2840XL which interchanges with a Toyota 90915-YZZN1. I am cutting a slew of filters to compare to the Wix WL10332 that I was thoroughly disappointed with for a variety of reasons, but primarily, poorly formed louvers.

The Champ XL PH2840XL is 2.625 in tall which is about the same as the Toyota 90915-YZZN1 and the Wix WL10332.

The can feels thin/flexible compared to others and is labeled MADE IN USA, Overall the filter weighs 163.2 g. The baseplate has 13 punched holes with slight burr on the ADBV side, but not enough that I would call it sharp., Can thickness was measured to be 0.0175 in. The ADBV is orange and appears to be silicone and feels very pliable, which matches what Champ advertises for this line of filter. The filter is constructed with the bypass valve located in the dome end, and due to the style of the bypass leaf spring stamping, light leaks were observed 360 degrees at the endcap to leaf spring interface. The valve is meant to seal metal on metal but the 4 raised portions meant to keep it tight in the metal end cap, only allow for a leak path (at least for light), additional pressure added to the leaf spring did not decrease the light leakage. The bypass valve psi setting is not published anywhere that I could find. The sealing side of the leaf spring was found to be flat. The filter core weighed 30.7 g, was 1 15/16 in tall, had 53 pleats, with a media length of 40 in, and a media thickness of 0.0285 in. The media is supported on each end by a metal end cap with no light leaks noted at the potting material, and no glue residue was present on the endcaps or elsewhere in the filter media. The center tube uses a e-core construction. Uniform overall filter construction was noted with straight media pleats, but an unknown quantity of leakage around the dome end bypass assembly.
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You are on to something about the protrusions that go in the end cap hole.
I looked at my Fram PH4967 better tonight. I see light leak. There are radiuses on the protrusions where they meet the end cap seal. I believe this is raising the spring up, in addition to ruffles, bumps, and maybe other reasons.
The PH4967 is built just like the one you show here. It’s the same model number but Fram. Very small exactly like the Toyota N1, downsized from the previous PH4967 with felt end caps.
 
On the plus side, topic XL has silicone adbv, many recent posted XL anecdotes have shown nitrile. On the negative side, another Champ Labs seal area oil bypass leaker. No bueno.

Thanks for c&p.
 
Up on the workbench today is a Champ XL PH2840XL which interchanges with a Toyota 90915-YZZN1. I am cutting a slew of filters to compare to the Wix WL10332 that I was thoroughly disappointed with for a variety of reasons, but primarily, poorly formed louvers.

The Champ XL PH2840XL is 2.625 in tall which is about the same as the Toyota 90915-YZZN1 and the Wix WL10332.

The can feels thin/flexible compared to others and is labeled MADE IN USA, Overall the filter weighs 163.2 g. The baseplate has 13 punched holes with slight burr on the ADBV side, but not enough that I would call it sharp., Can thickness was measured to be 0.0175 in. The ADBV is orange and appears to be silicone and feels very pliable, which matches what Champ advertises for this line of filter. The filter is constructed with the bypass valve located in the dome end, and due to the style of the bypass leaf spring stamping, light leaks were observed 360 degrees at the endcap to leaf spring interface. The valve is meant to seal metal on metal but the 4 raised portions meant to keep it tight in the metal end cap, only allow for a leak path (at least for light), additional pressure added to the leaf spring did not decrease the light leakage. The bypass valve psi setting is not published anywhere that I could find. The sealing side of the leaf spring was found to be flat. The filter core weighed 30.7 g, was 1 15/16 in tall, had 53 pleats, with a media length of 40 in, and a media thickness of 0.0285 in. The media is supported on each end by a metal end cap with no light leaks noted at the potting material, and no glue residue was present on the endcaps or elsewhere in the filter media. The center tube uses a e-core construction. Uniform overall filter construction was noted with straight media pleats, but an unknown quantity of leakage around the dome end bypass assembly. View attachment 256359View attachment 256360View attachment 256361View attachment 256362View attachment 256363View attachment 256364View attachment 256365View attachment 256366View attachment 256367View attachment 256368
Nice work Luke. Thank You for pics
 
The sealing area of the leaf spring on the side that contacts the filter is actually quite flat, it just can't seal due to the raised "retention" areas on the circumference of the valve.
On a side note ... the OG Ultra leaf spring had no "nubs" on the side circumference of the leaf spring, and the leaf spring fit tight inside the ID of the fiber sealing ring in the metal end cap. And it had a properly smooth stamped leaf spring (not ruffles), so it was sealed on both the sides of the leaf spring circumference and on the top of the fiber ring seal in the end cap. It was a good design, and whoever designed it at Fram knew it was important have the leaf spring seal well in order not impact the filter's efficiency. These days, everyone is into cutting costs and farming out production to the lowest bidder and crappiest QA imaginable for profits.
 
On a side note ... the OG Ultra leaf spring had no "nubs" on the side circumference of the leaf spring, and the leaf spring fit tight inside the ID of the fiber sealing ring in the metal end cap. And it had a properly smooth stamped leaf spring (not ruffles), so it was sealed on both the sides of the leaf spring circumference and on the top of the fiber ring seal in the end cap. It was a good design, and whoever designed it at Fram knew it was important have the leaf spring seal well in order not impact the filter's efficiency. These days, everyone is into cutting costs and farming out production to the lowest bidder and crappiest QA imaginable for profits.
The 'nubs" would probably be fine and dandy in a fiber endcap, here in the metal endcap it's a fail. I was really disappointed as I had high hopes for this filter.
 
The 'nubs" would probably be fine and dandy in a fiber endcap, here in the metal endcap it's a fail. I was really disappointed as I had high hopes for this filter.
Only if the nubs allowed the leaf spring to fully seat down on the fiber ring. Since there were no nubs on the OG leaf spring, it did seat fully down in the center tube hole and contact the fiber sealing ring. Along with the ring ID sealing on the vertical circumference of the leaf spring. Like a "double sealing" setup.

From the sounds of it, the nubs don't allow the leaf spring to fully sit down on the metal end cap. What if you carefully ground those nubs flush near the top where they meet the flat sealing ring on the leaf spring (ie, red circled areas) ... would the leaf spring then sit down and seal better on the end cap? Of course, there are still ruffles in the leaf spring that will probably leak light even if the leaf spring sits totally down on the end cap.

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Only if the nubs allowed the leaf spring to fully seat down on the fiber ring. Since there were no nubs on the OG leaf spring, it did seat fully down in the center tube hole and contact the fiber sealing ring. Along with the ring ID sealing on the vertical circumference of the leaf spring. Like a "double sealing" setup.

From the sounds of it, the nubs don't allow the leaf spring to fully sit down on the metal end cap. What if you carefully ground those nubs flush near the top where they meet the flat sealing ring on the leaf spring (ie, red circled areas) ... would the leaf spring then sit down and seal better on the end cap? Of course, there are still ruffles in the leaf spring that will probably leak light even if the leaf spring sits totally down on the end cap.

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I could try to remove that section flush, with a fine file, and see if it seats better. If I get bored tonight I'll give it a try.
 
I could try to remove that section flush, with a fine file, and see if it seats better. If I get bored tonight I'll give it a try.
If the nubs where they meet the sealing area (red circled spots) are preventing the leaf spring from fully seating, then that could leave a large air gap between the leaf spring and end cap. If it does seat better, and the leaf spring has a rippled stamping, then it will still have some gaps. But if it seats fully without nub interference it might be an improvement.
 
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