Shell Rotella 5w-40 for 2007 Prius?
- Thread starter greguzzi
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Seems it's all a fight between memory & past practices, and newer oil chemistry. Us old guys know what HAS worked for us for decades w/o problem. We are loath to give up strongly held beliefs (not necessarily facts) that fly in the face of the "new stuff".
But, among some of those old beliefs that work is that single weights do work in race motors. No viscosity improvers to shear down, etc. In the case of fuel drag cars, the oil is pre-heated to op temp before it is poured in the tank between rounds, so it's at op temp when the engine fires...
Roundy-round cars do have cold starts, but only once a night. Some come with priming pumps that have full pressure when the starter is engaged.
As far as flow being critical to lubrication, it's not that simple. You can have lubrication w/o flow just like using an oil can on a bolt, or gravity cups on rods and mains in stationary engines, or accumulated mist in 2-strokes...
But in general, in modern high speed engine designs, you need flow to replenish the oil slung away, and to help with the oils cooling effect by supplying cooler fresher oil. Flow itself does not lubricate ...
Appreciate your thoughtful comments.
A mono-grade dino hasn't been used for decades in racing. Of course mono-grade synthetics with their much higher VIs are really multi-grade oils. But with the most advanced race oils used today polymer VIIs are a critical part of the formulation.
Correct, flow in bearings doesn't lubricate but cools them but insufficient oil flow or oil supply to other parts of an engine can deprive it of sufficient lubrication particularly at higher rev's...
Seems it's all a fight between memory & past practices, and newer oil chemistry. Us old guys know what HAS worked for us for decades w/o problem. We are loath to give up strongly held beliefs (not necessarily facts) that fly in the face of the "new stuff".
But, among some of those old beliefs that work is that single weights do work in race motors. No viscosity improvers to shear down, etc. In the case of fuel drag cars, the oil is pre-heated to op temp before it is poured in the tank between rounds, so it's at op temp when the engine fires...
Roundy-round cars do have cold starts, but only once a night. Some come with priming pumps that have full pressure when the starter is engaged.
As far as flow being critical to lubrication, it's not that simple. You can have lubrication w/o flow just like using an oil can on a bolt, or gravity cups on rods and mains in stationary engines, or accumulated mist in 2-strokes...
But in general, in modern high speed engine designs, you need flow to replenish the oil slung away, and to help with the oils cooling effect by supplying cooler fresher oil. Flow itself does not lubricate ...
Appreciate your thoughtful comments.
A mono-grade dino hasn't been used for decades in racing. Of course mono-grade synthetics with their much higher VIs are really multi-grade oils. But with the most advanced race oils used today polymer VIIs are a critical part of the formulation.
Correct, flow in bearings doesn't lubricate but cools them but insufficient oil flow or oil supply to other parts of an engine can deprive it of sufficient lubrication particularly at higher rev's...
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
Originally Posted By: JRed
I've run this oil in my Prius several times. It has never made any difference in fuel consumption or anything else.
If you have it around, go for it.
I was going to point out that you had said that in one of your threads after the one I linked earlier.
I've run this oil in my Prius several times. It has never made any difference in fuel consumption or anything else.
If you have it around, go for it.
I was going to point out that you had said that in one of your threads after the one I linked earlier.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
For the record: although TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION" says "All '06 - '07 Toyota" and appears to specify 5W-20 or 0w-20 depending on engine, it includes a note.
Originally Posted By: TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION"
NOTE :
^ The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner's Manual for each vehicle.
^ For Prius vehicles, refer to TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
and TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications." says:
Originally Posted By: EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
2001 – 2007 model year Prius vehicles.
Ensure that the correct engine oil viscosity is used in the engine with the correct fill level
quantity as described in the Owner’s Manual:
Engine Oil Quantity, with filter,
qt.(L, Imp. qt.):
3.9 (3.7, 3.3)
Recommended Viscosity: SAE 5W–30
Engine Oil Grade: API grade SL “Energy–Conserving” OR
ILSAC GF–4
So unless someone can come up with a TSB that supersedes EGO5O-04 I maintain that a 2007 Prius is NOT back specced to 0W(or5W)-20
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
For the record: although TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION" says "All '06 - '07 Toyota" and appears to specify 5W-20 or 0w-20 depending on engine, it includes a note.
Originally Posted By: TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION"
NOTE :
^ The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner's Manual for each vehicle.
^ For Prius vehicles, refer to TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
and TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications." says:
Originally Posted By: EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
2001 – 2007 model year Prius vehicles.
Ensure that the correct engine oil viscosity is used in the engine with the correct fill level
quantity as described in the Owner’s Manual:
Engine Oil Quantity, with filter,
qt.(L, Imp. qt.):
3.9 (3.7, 3.3)
Recommended Viscosity: SAE 5W–30
Engine Oil Grade: API grade SL “Energy–Conserving” OR
ILSAC GF–4
So unless someone can come up with a TSB that supersedes EGO5O-04 I maintain that a 2007 Prius is NOT back specced to 0W(or5W)-20
OK, for those who are new to CATERHAM's style of "discussion", here is where he is misrepresenting my statements and positions.
I have tried to correct this many, many times, but he continues to bring out the same statements that he attributes to me and my processes.
I correct him, he wheels them out over and over.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
And who are you?
Oh right, you're that guy who actually believes oil flow doesn't matter!
My statement is that oil galleries are full of oil.
Bearings, as they operate draw oil out of galleries to make up for side leakage. When they don't NEED the volume of oil, the artifact is backpressure, which is oil pressure.
I have demonstrated through basic design theory and charts, SAE papers, other industry work, and worked examples of my own that prove this, but they are dismissed as "technical obfuscation"...by an individual who wants to replace actual proven science with his own reality.
There is no rational reason to lower viscosity to the closure of the oil pump relief and ensure that all of the oil goes through the bearings...the manufacturer's minimum oil pressure is a diagnostic tool for a worn engine on their specified oils...CATERHAM has misrepresented their intent with his theories.
As an aise, if your engine has piston cooling squirters, you will REDUCE the piston cooling flow when you reduce oil pressure.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
But that shouldn't come as a total surprise from someone who used to run a 15W-50 in a late model GM V6
This one he wheels out regularly is a LIE.
I posted a UOA from a friend on another forum in which he ran 15W50 in a 3.8 V-6 (Holden's recomnedations 20W50)....
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2446765
I have explained that it's not my car, I have NEVER run a 50 in my L67...but CATERHAM, despite being corrected multiple times, wheels it out as a fact again and again...not to address any of my arguments, but as a feeble method to discredit.
I have asked him to show me what damage this oil caused, but there are always crickets chirping at that point.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
who thinks a mono grade (99 VI) dino oil is best for track use and running
Case in question was a Honda(?) racing a beater oval track endurance series, who had an acknowledged oil consumption problem.
My recommendation was that to finish first, you first have to finish, so the first order of business was minimising oil consumption at operating temperature, not minimising friction during warm-up.
I still stand by that recommendation for THAT car, in THAT application.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
a 20 grade oil even when specified will shorten engine life
No, OEMS are moving to their thinner grades, IN THEIR OWN WORDS, for fuel economy and carbon emmissions, while still offering to provide "acceptable" durability.
My statement is that even IF they are sacrificing some small amount of engine life on a car that will be sold, wrecked, and never see out the life of the engine, it's a fair trade.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
just to mention few of your motor oil beliefs.
Like NOACK has some importance, and was intended for emissions systems protection ?
Like you don't NEED 0W at 100F.
Like it's "warmup wear", not "startup wear", with the wear taking place in the period while the engine is warming, a fraction of it being in the seconds beforeoil pressure is established (see Sequence IV...the manufacturers seem to put some credence in THAT warmup wear test.
Like at temperatures around freezing, a 0W won't fill the galleries any quicker than a 5W or 10W.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
So yes you are indeed one of the BITOG go to guys if you want a totally antedeluvian viewpoint on motor oil.
And the icing is always his pompous parting shots.
So back to the OP, don't take his scaremongering a fact, it's opinion, and it's overblown for dramatic effect and fear.
Check out the (not my) Holden UOA I linked, and see how badly the 15W50 perfromed...I'm running 5W40 in mine, and have the next 3-4 oil changes in the shed, 5W30 and 10W30 A3/B4, two grades lower than the OEM manual for my vehicle, and 1 lower than the cold weather recommendation of 15W40).
I have tried to correct this many, many times, but he continues to bring out the same statements that he attributes to me and my processes.
I correct him, he wheels them out over and over.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
And who are you?
Oh right, you're that guy who actually believes oil flow doesn't matter!
My statement is that oil galleries are full of oil.
Bearings, as they operate draw oil out of galleries to make up for side leakage. When they don't NEED the volume of oil, the artifact is backpressure, which is oil pressure.
I have demonstrated through basic design theory and charts, SAE papers, other industry work, and worked examples of my own that prove this, but they are dismissed as "technical obfuscation"...by an individual who wants to replace actual proven science with his own reality.
There is no rational reason to lower viscosity to the closure of the oil pump relief and ensure that all of the oil goes through the bearings...the manufacturer's minimum oil pressure is a diagnostic tool for a worn engine on their specified oils...CATERHAM has misrepresented their intent with his theories.
As an aise, if your engine has piston cooling squirters, you will REDUCE the piston cooling flow when you reduce oil pressure.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
But that shouldn't come as a total surprise from someone who used to run a 15W-50 in a late model GM V6
This one he wheels out regularly is a LIE.
I posted a UOA from a friend on another forum in which he ran 15W50 in a 3.8 V-6 (Holden's recomnedations 20W50)....
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2446765
I have explained that it's not my car, I have NEVER run a 50 in my L67...but CATERHAM, despite being corrected multiple times, wheels it out as a fact again and again...not to address any of my arguments, but as a feeble method to discredit.
I have asked him to show me what damage this oil caused, but there are always crickets chirping at that point.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
who thinks a mono grade (99 VI) dino oil is best for track use and running
Case in question was a Honda(?) racing a beater oval track endurance series, who had an acknowledged oil consumption problem.
My recommendation was that to finish first, you first have to finish, so the first order of business was minimising oil consumption at operating temperature, not minimising friction during warm-up.
I still stand by that recommendation for THAT car, in THAT application.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
a 20 grade oil even when specified will shorten engine life
No, OEMS are moving to their thinner grades, IN THEIR OWN WORDS, for fuel economy and carbon emmissions, while still offering to provide "acceptable" durability.
My statement is that even IF they are sacrificing some small amount of engine life on a car that will be sold, wrecked, and never see out the life of the engine, it's a fair trade.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
just to mention few of your motor oil beliefs.
Like NOACK has some importance, and was intended for emissions systems protection ?
Like you don't NEED 0W at 100F.
Like it's "warmup wear", not "startup wear", with the wear taking place in the period while the engine is warming, a fraction of it being in the seconds beforeoil pressure is established (see Sequence IV...the manufacturers seem to put some credence in THAT warmup wear test.
Like at temperatures around freezing, a 0W won't fill the galleries any quicker than a 5W or 10W.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
So yes you are indeed one of the BITOG go to guys if you want a totally antedeluvian viewpoint on motor oil.
And the icing is always his pompous parting shots.
So back to the OP, don't take his scaremongering a fact, it's opinion, and it's overblown for dramatic effect and fear.
Check out the (not my) Holden UOA I linked, and see how badly the 15W50 perfromed...I'm running 5W40 in mine, and have the next 3-4 oil changes in the shed, 5W30 and 10W30 A3/B4, two grades lower than the OEM manual for my vehicle, and 1 lower than the cold weather recommendation of 15W40).
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Appreciate your thoughtful comments.
A mono-grade dino hasn't been used for decades in racing. Of course mono-grade synthetics with their much higher VIs are really multi-grade oils. But with the most advanced race oils used today polymer VIIs are a critical part of the formulation.
We use a LOT of single 50W in drag racing if your maintenance schedule has you refilling every pass. It's always preheated to 175* before filling the feed tank. This is AA/F or alcohol cars. The go-to oil is Red Line for me and others. Bought by the 55 gallon drum. Weekend of racing will go through 1/2 of that ...
It's all about what kind of racing you are talking about... A similar situation occurs in the water borne version ...
Appreciate your thoughtful comments.
A mono-grade dino hasn't been used for decades in racing. Of course mono-grade synthetics with their much higher VIs are really multi-grade oils. But with the most advanced race oils used today polymer VIIs are a critical part of the formulation.
We use a LOT of single 50W in drag racing if your maintenance schedule has you refilling every pass. It's always preheated to 175* before filling the feed tank. This is AA/F or alcohol cars. The go-to oil is Red Line for me and others. Bought by the 55 gallon drum. Weekend of racing will go through 1/2 of that ...
It's all about what kind of racing you are talking about... A similar situation occurs in the water borne version ...
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Correct, flow in bearings doesn't lubricate but cools them but insufficient oil flow or oil supply to other parts of an engine can deprive it of sufficient lubrication particularly at higher rev's...
Your grasp of hydrodynamics still surprises me even to this day.
As a denier of the fundamental process that heat is generated IN engine bearings, it's far too easy to form incorrect conclusions.
Correct, flow in bearings doesn't lubricate but cools them but insufficient oil flow or oil supply to other parts of an engine can deprive it of sufficient lubrication particularly at higher rev's...
Your grasp of hydrodynamics still surprises me even to this day.
As a denier of the fundamental process that heat is generated IN engine bearings, it's far too easy to form incorrect conclusions.
Caterham's "style of discussion" include lengthy vacations.
Originally Posted By: greguzzi
Given that the Prii are powered by a faux Atkinson-cycle engine with low compression
sorry dude, but you have no clue what you're talking about.
Given that the Prii are powered by a faux Atkinson-cycle engine with low compression
sorry dude, but you have no clue what you're talking about.
And back to the OP's original question; Rotella 5W-40 would be fine IF the engine had gazillions of hours on it and the car was nearing the end of life.
A bit heavy for regular use in an engine with minimal wear...
5W-30 prolly a better bet
If you really want to extend the drain interval, why not Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30? About as good as it gets
A bit heavy for regular use in an engine with minimal wear...
5W-30 prolly a better bet
If you really want to extend the drain interval, why not Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30? About as good as it gets
Is there a Mr. Gump, Missus Gump?
He's on vacation.
He's on vacation.
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: greguzzi
plus a small fleet of Moto Guzzi motorcycles.
Pictures Please !!
I do love a nice Moto Guzzi……...
My "Donut Racer, a highly tweaked, daily-rider 1973 Police Eldorado—with Billy Joel sitting in my seat.
It was spec'd for 20w-50 oil, yet I run 5w-40 Rotella and have for the last 180,000 miles. It's gonna blow any day now, for [censored] sure, just as my Prius will.
Oil is serious [censored] bidness . . .
Originally Posted By: greguzzi
plus a small fleet of Moto Guzzi motorcycles.
Pictures Please !!
I do love a nice Moto Guzzi……...
My "Donut Racer, a highly tweaked, daily-rider 1973 Police Eldorado—with Billy Joel sitting in my seat.
It was spec'd for 20w-50 oil, yet I run 5w-40 Rotella and have for the last 180,000 miles. It's gonna blow any day now, for [censored] sure, just as my Prius will.
Oil is serious [censored] bidness . . .
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: greguzzi
Given that the Prii are powered by a faux Atkinson-cycle engine with low compression
sorry dude, but you have no clue what you're talking about.
Enlighten me, dude. I'm just a skull full of mush awaiting your wisdom.
Originally Posted By: greguzzi
Given that the Prii are powered by a faux Atkinson-cycle engine with low compression
sorry dude, but you have no clue what you're talking about.
Enlighten me, dude. I'm just a skull full of mush awaiting your wisdom.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
And back to the OP's original question; Rotella 5W-40 would be fine IF the engine had gazillions of hours on it and the car was nearing the end of life.
A bit heavy for regular use in an engine with minimal wear...
5W-30 prolly a better bet
If you really want to extend the drain interval, why not Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30? About as good as it gets
It has 172K on it. Is that nearing the end of its life, on an Atkinson? I've heard of plenty of Prii making 400,000 miles.
And back to the OP's original question; Rotella 5W-40 would be fine IF the engine had gazillions of hours on it and the car was nearing the end of life.
A bit heavy for regular use in an engine with minimal wear...
5W-30 prolly a better bet
If you really want to extend the drain interval, why not Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30? About as good as it gets
It has 172K on it. Is that nearing the end of its life, on an Atkinson? I've heard of plenty of Prii making 400,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
For the record: although TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION" says "All '06 - '07 Toyota" and appears to specify 5W-20 or 0w-20 depending on engine, it includes a note.
Originally Posted By: TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION"
NOTE :
^ The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner's Manual for each vehicle.
^ For Prius vehicles, refer to TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
and TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications." says:
Originally Posted By: EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
2001 – 2007 model year Prius vehicles.
Ensure that the correct engine oil viscosity is used in the engine with the correct fill level
quantity as described in the Owner’s Manual:
Engine Oil Quantity, with filter,
qt.(L, Imp. qt.):
3.9 (3.7, 3.3)
Recommended Viscosity: SAE 5W–30
Engine Oil Grade: API grade SL “Energy–Conserving” OR
ILSAC GF–4
So unless someone can come up with a TSB that supersedes EGO5O-04 I maintain that a 2007 Prius is NOT back specced to 0W(or5W)-20
In 2012 Toyota Canada back-spec'd the 0W-20 grade to the 2004 model year and 5W-20 to 2001 for the Prius. The current SN TGMO 0W-20 can be used wherever the 5W-20 is specified.
In years past there have been a number of posts discussing the "Toyota Oil Recommendation Chart" but the chart itself doesn't stay up for long.
If you Google it your should be able to quickly pull it up.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
For the record: although TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION" says "All '06 - '07 Toyota" and appears to specify 5W-20 or 0w-20 depending on engine, it includes a note.
Originally Posted By: TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION"
NOTE :
^ The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner's Manual for each vehicle.
^ For Prius vehicles, refer to TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
and TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications." says:
Originally Posted By: EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
2001 – 2007 model year Prius vehicles.
Ensure that the correct engine oil viscosity is used in the engine with the correct fill level
quantity as described in the Owner’s Manual:
Engine Oil Quantity, with filter,
qt.(L, Imp. qt.):
3.9 (3.7, 3.3)
Recommended Viscosity: SAE 5W–30
Engine Oil Grade: API grade SL “Energy–Conserving” OR
ILSAC GF–4
So unless someone can come up with a TSB that supersedes EGO5O-04 I maintain that a 2007 Prius is NOT back specced to 0W(or5W)-20
In 2012 Toyota Canada back-spec'd the 0W-20 grade to the 2004 model year and 5W-20 to 2001 for the Prius. The current SN TGMO 0W-20 can be used wherever the 5W-20 is specified.
In years past there have been a number of posts discussing the "Toyota Oil Recommendation Chart" but the chart itself doesn't stay up for long.
If you Google it your should be able to quickly pull it up.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
For the record: although TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION" says "All '06 - '07 Toyota" and appears to specify 5W-20 or 0w-20 depending on engine, it includes a note.
Originally Posted By: TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION"
NOTE :
^ The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner's Manual for each vehicle.
^ For Prius vehicles, refer to TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
and TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications." says:
Originally Posted By: EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
2001 – 2007 model year Prius vehicles.
Ensure that the correct engine oil viscosity is used in the engine with the correct fill level
quantity as described in the Owner’s Manual:
Engine Oil Quantity, with filter,
qt.(L, Imp. qt.):
3.9 (3.7, 3.3)
Recommended Viscosity: SAE 5W–30
Engine Oil Grade: API grade SL “Energy–Conserving” OR
ILSAC GF–4
So unless someone can come up with a TSB that supersedes EGO5O-04 I maintain that a 2007 Prius is NOT back specced to 0W(or5W)-20
In 2012 Toyota Canada back-spec'd the 0W-20 grade to the 2004 model year and 5W-20 to 2001 for the Prius. The current SN TGMO 0W-20 can be used wherever the 5W-20 is specified.
In years past there have been a number of posts discussing the "Toyota Oil Recommendation Chart" but the chart itself doesn't stay up for long.
If you Google it your should be able to quickly pull it up.
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA?
I've seen the chart.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
And for the few that don't know, the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius. ...
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA, because that isn't what most dealers seem to say.
For the record: although TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION" says "All '06 - '07 Toyota" and appears to specify 5W-20 or 0w-20 depending on engine, it includes a note.
Originally Posted By: TSB EG018-06 "ILSAC GF-4 ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATION"
NOTE :
^ The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner's Manual for each vehicle.
^ For Prius vehicles, refer to TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
and TSB No. EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications." says:
Originally Posted By: EGO5O-04, "Engine Oil Specifications."
2001 – 2007 model year Prius vehicles.
Ensure that the correct engine oil viscosity is used in the engine with the correct fill level
quantity as described in the Owner’s Manual:
Engine Oil Quantity, with filter,
qt.(L, Imp. qt.):
3.9 (3.7, 3.3)
Recommended Viscosity: SAE 5W–30
Engine Oil Grade: API grade SL “Energy–Conserving” OR
ILSAC GF–4
So unless someone can come up with a TSB that supersedes EGO5O-04 I maintain that a 2007 Prius is NOT back specced to 0W(or5W)-20
In 2012 Toyota Canada back-spec'd the 0W-20 grade to the 2004 model year and 5W-20 to 2001 for the Prius. The current SN TGMO 0W-20 can be used wherever the 5W-20 is specified.
In years past there have been a number of posts discussing the "Toyota Oil Recommendation Chart" but the chart itself doesn't stay up for long.
If you Google it your should be able to quickly pull it up.
Can you provide documentation with Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A. branding or other identification indicating it is valid for USA?
I've seen the chart.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Appreciate your thoughtful comments.
A mono-grade dino hasn't been used for decades in racing. Of course mono-grade synthetics with their much higher VIs are really multi-grade oils. But with the most advanced race oils used today polymer VIIs are a critical part of the formulation.
We use a LOT of single 50W in drag racing if your maintenance schedule has you refilling every pass. It's always preheated to 175* before filling the feed tank. This is AA/F or alcohol cars. The go-to oil is Red Line for me and others. Bought by the 55 gallon drum. Weekend of racing will go through 1/2 of that ...
It's all about what kind of racing you are talking about... A similar situation occurs in the water borne version ...
Of course the single grade RL 50W race oil is really a 15W-50 with it's 141 VI. That's a better VI than the 130 VI of a typical multi-grade dino 20W-50 let a lone 90-100 VI of a true dino mono-grade!
I'm old enough to remember using straight 30, 40 and 50 grade oils such as Castrol GP in my motorbikes. Very problematic in a temperate climate and if you didn't take the time to gradually warm the engine's up especially with the 40 and 50 grades on cool days engine seizures were a common occurance if high rev's were used too soon.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Appreciate your thoughtful comments.
A mono-grade dino hasn't been used for decades in racing. Of course mono-grade synthetics with their much higher VIs are really multi-grade oils. But with the most advanced race oils used today polymer VIIs are a critical part of the formulation.
We use a LOT of single 50W in drag racing if your maintenance schedule has you refilling every pass. It's always preheated to 175* before filling the feed tank. This is AA/F or alcohol cars. The go-to oil is Red Line for me and others. Bought by the 55 gallon drum. Weekend of racing will go through 1/2 of that ...
It's all about what kind of racing you are talking about... A similar situation occurs in the water borne version ...
Of course the single grade RL 50W race oil is really a 15W-50 with it's 141 VI. That's a better VI than the 130 VI of a typical multi-grade dino 20W-50 let a lone 90-100 VI of a true dino mono-grade!
I'm old enough to remember using straight 30, 40 and 50 grade oils such as Castrol GP in my motorbikes. Very problematic in a temperate climate and if you didn't take the time to gradually warm the engine's up especially with the 40 and 50 grades on cool days engine seizures were a common occurance if high rev's were used too soon.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
This is not a warranty issue for the OP, so it's simply the recommendation of the manufacturer.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
I don't see what you're concerned about, the climate in Canada is not that much more varied than the US?CATERHAM said:
This is not a warranty issue for the OP, so it's simply the recommendation of the manufacturer.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
...
I don't see what you're concerned about, ...
I'm just asking the question, the charts floating around... It has no identifying markings on it (at least the copies I find).
My concern is when a US poster ask about oil and is told "the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius." it doesn't appear to be true, for the US.
Or in other words ... Leaving out the "Toyota Canada" is a key piece of information that is omitted.
I do agree it is not on point for the OP's question except with respect to the folks claiming that the G2 Prius is "designed for" 0W-20.
...
I don't see what you're concerned about, ...
I'm just asking the question, the charts floating around... It has no identifying markings on it (at least the copies I find).
My concern is when a US poster ask about oil and is told "the 20 grade has been back spec'd to the first gen' Prius." it doesn't appear to be true, for the US.
Or in other words ... Leaving out the "Toyota Canada" is a key piece of information that is omitted.
I do agree it is not on point for the OP's question except with respect to the folks claiming that the G2 Prius is "designed for" 0W-20.
- Status
Similar threads
