Originally Posted By: JFAllen
In April this year I bought a 2002 plated (built 2001) Saab 9-5 2.3t Wagon with 150,000kms on it (not knowing about the sludge issues that effect(s)ed these.) Anyway it's now got 163,500kms on it and I've been doing 5000kms (3k mile) oil changes using either Helix Ultra 5W30 ECT C3 or Helix Ultra 5W30 AG (both of which are Dexos2 rated, which succeeds the old GM: 'LL-A-025' spec.) I also dropped the sump and pulled the cam cover to gave them both a serious clean at 155,000kms after reading about the issues (my cam cover wasn't too bad, but the sump was close to being a serious problem. Previous owner had replaced the turbo at 130,000kms, I suspect as a result of oil contamination flogging out the bearings.)
Like any good owner I did a service when I bought the car, (oil was black like tar.) After reading about the issues, my process for oil changes on this car are as follows.
1: Having driven the car to ensure oil is at operating temperature, jack it up and drain the oil and remove the filter.
2: Remove the oil cooler and drain it. On a B235 engine this holds close to 1L of oil. So if you leave it in, you only replace at best 80% of the oil. I honestly feel that this is a significant contributing factor to the sludge issues encountered on these engines!!!!
3: Let it drain over night.
4: Refil with whatever oil you can get 5L for ~$10AUD on special (often Valvoline 10W40/20W50, Castrol GTX 10W40 or Nulon 10W40,) and a clean filter. With the oil cooler removed the system takes a full 5.0 L so no wastage
but no spare
5: Drive the car to ensure the oil is at operating temperature, then conduct an 'Oil Flush' using your choice of oil flush. (Wynns/Penrite/Amsoil/Nulon/Gulf Western/Repco/LiquiMoly...) I just usually buy what's on special.
6: Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3. (No drive around required after the oil flush of course,) Leaving it drain over night yields an additional ~250ml of oil. Be amazed at how much blacker oil that is less than an hour oil comes out.
7: Remove cam cover and blot the oil out of the galley's using a rag or paper towel
8: Refil with Shell Helix Ultra 5W30 Dexos2 spec oil and a new filter.
-Since beginning the regime I have noticed a significant increase in fuel economy (down form ~8.8L/100kms --> ~7.2L/100kms on the highway and >12L/100kms --> 100kms in the city.)
-Also I've noticed a significant reduction in oil consumption from 1L per 2500kms --> 800ml per 5000kms.
-At @3750kms since my last oil change now and if doing a dip stick inspection and letting it drip on a paper towel, it looks like a dark tea, still translucent. Previously it was going black very quickly.
-When I bought the car there was lifter tick on cold mornings. That is now no longer the case
I know Helix ultra isn't the silver bullet here. The mechanical cleans of the sump and cam cover in addition to the "very fastidious" oil change regime are key components. I've also been doing a great deal of highway driving of late as I tend to use my bicycle around town. Still Helix Ultra has been working to clean the inside of my engine, improve ring seal, reduce friction and pumping losses. The end result is cleaner oil, less oil being burnt, and better fuel economy. The very low NOACK number and high Viscosity index of GTL oil is the first reason I looked into Helix Ultra in an effort to limit oil vapours.
I'm a convert and now use it in my 330RWkW CA18DET powered race car (5W40 or 10W60,) my L18 powered 180b Datsun (5W40) and also whenever I service a friends car (whatever manufacture spec is required) unless they specifically request another brands product. I'll also continue to use and recommend it in the future with any car i purchase.
Few other brands (Mobil and BP/Castrol spring to mind) have the vertical integration and engineering budget of Royal Dutch Shell, where they have complete control over base stock production, additive production along with OEM's and race teams to test and develop the oils.
Off the shelf Helix Ultra 5W40 and 0W40 (sold in the America's PP 5W40 Euro and PUP 0W40) are both certified for Indy car use (0W40 is simply a newer formulation) and its this oil (that you can buy down the road) that was in the 2016 Championship winning car.
Good enough for Scuderia Ferrari F1,
Good enough for Penski Indy and Nascar
Good Enough for Audi at the 24 24H LeMans
Good Enough for **** Johnson Racing
Good Enough for Hyundai WRC
It's good enough for me
and probably you to.
Shell are putting the $$ into GTL and this new product. I honestly think it's worth using and buy it retail (though admittedly only when it's on 20% or better special. Good oil is expensive in Australia.)
and Happy New Year.
Experiential post you have.