Severely sludged 2001 Avalon 3.0 and ARX-ideas?

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My brother-in-law called a few weeks ago to tell me that while he had the car to the local dealer for front and rear brake work, he had them check his engine because he was getting some oil smoke at times, and the oil pressure light was coming on and off at times. He said his engine was still running fine (not noisy) and not consuming oil, but he was concerned about the smoke and light coming on.

Well the dealer called him back and said he would need a new engine for 7 grand. It seems his engine is completely sludged up and they said there is no way to clean it up besides a complete overhaul or replacement. He called me to ask if he had any other alternatives. I told him we could try some Auto-RX, and he said anything that would help him avoid a major repair soon would be great. I made no promises, but we agreed to try it.

We changed the oil to Supertech 5W-30/FL400s and added a bottle of ARX. I asked him to drive the car in such as way as to avoid short trips when possible and to always run it enough to completely warm up each trip. After one week, he called and said that the oil light going on and off had nearly gone away, but while his wife was driving that it got somewhat noisier and she immediately shut it off and called him. He came out and checked the oil and found it was not even on the stick. He looked under the car for a leak and found it was dry, so it must have consumed all this oil.

He added 2 quarts of oil to bring it into the safe range and was wondering what to do next. I told him to get another filter and change just the filter. So at about 600 miles into this cleaning phase, he changed to a AA3600 filter and topped it back off. But the consumption has continued to be very high. I would like to find a way to lower the consumption if possible. We looked for a PCV valve on this engine and could not find one. On the plus side, it seems the episodes of occasional oil smoke has lessened as well. Now the oil light is not coming on at all while the engine is running.

He wanted to change his oil sooner than recommended. Frank concurred and said to basically start a thorough rinse or 2 before adding any more ARX. Change the filter per sludge directions. So we changed the oil yesterday (Supertech 5W-30 oil and ST 3600 filter) with barely 1250 miles since adding the ARX and about 650 miles on this last filter. (I checked before draining and it was down about 2 quarts again.) The engine is still quiet, and I did not see one puff of blue smoke the whole time. He is now going to keep 3 quarts of oil in the trunk at all times and check it every few days. I told him to try and keep the engine oil as close to full mark as possible at all times.

We figured the oil consumption to be at about 1 quart every 200 miles right now, depending on how much you allow for the minimal oil that was lost when the filter was changed midway through. He is keeping a log of everything that is done and oil added along the way. There is not any blowby coming out the dipstick tube with the engine running, so not sure what's going on with the consumption.

Which is why I am putting this out here on the board. Anyone know if some part of the crankcase vent system can be serviced? Any ideas on how to lower the consumption and/or how to proceed with cleaning this engine wih ARX? Thank you.
 
If it's burning 1quart for every 200miles, that is excessive and it calls for severe mechanical trouble.

In this case you can only hope and pray that AutoRx can do something. Normally, I would recommend a full service/rebuild if I were your mechanic.

Good luck on that. This is a rather straightforward incident that if nothing works, nothing will work and all that ever needs is a rebuild.

Q.
 
Just do a couple of rinses w/ filter changes as you mentioned and Maybe try ARX in a couple thousand miles.

That is high consumption though, so you can only hope, keep us updated.
 
So if it ain't leaking then she must be burning the oil. I bet the emissions system is toast already! So I don't see what would it would hurt if you topped off with a bit heavier weight oil like Rotella until she finally dies if she does. You never know she might keep going for thousands of miles. Switch to a HDEO that is on sale to slow consumption. That's what I'd do. And I know that is a cure all for a lot of folks but it would be a last resort for me. I sure as heck wouldn't pay $7000 for a rebuild! Not for a UJC!
 
Yes, well Toyota has basically condemned this engine with 133,xxx miles on it currently. So I figure there is nothing to lose at this point except the cost of the ARX, some inexpensive oil, and filters. The service guy told him that he was just days or weeks away from this engine locking up tight and it was unavoidable- they have seen it often. BTW, he bought the car used when it was a lot newer (it still LOOKS new, however) and he says he has changed the oil every 5-7500 miles with regular oil, no synthetics or HM. But he did not assure me that it had not gone longer to maybe 10k miles a few times when I asked. Typical use has been shorter trips around town, with longer ones here and there. I joked with him that he was finally going to get caught up on his oil changes with this vehicle now, but he was not amused.
 
Do you know the service history of this vehicle? If you have record of changing the oil per Toyota's recommendations in the manual, you might get it covered by Toyota. They've replaced engines in the past on vehicles out of warranty that developed sludge.
 
Oops, well scratch my post!

What they hey, might give something like BG Quick Clean a shot as well after trying Auto-RX. That's what I'd do. Then run Pennzoil HM oil, upping the viscosity if the consumption doesn't slow. Pennzoil now claims all their oils will clean out sludge.

I wonder if using Pennzoil conventional for the rinse phase would add any kind of cleaning power?
 
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UJC? I don't think a 15W-40 HDEO would be smart right now. I'm thinking the thinner the better when trying to reestablish good flow in areas of thick sludge accumulation. And we don't seem to have any 10W-30 HDEO around here. I was actually even thinking that a 5W-20 would keep things flowing better during all of this and cold weather (for here) to boot. So I chickened out and used the recommended 5W-30.
 
Well, here's what is in cue oil and filter-wise. He has one AA3614 and one AA3600. Then there are 6 more FL400s filters as well.

All 5W-30, and (2) 5 quart jugs of each:

Mobil Clean 5000
Castrol GTX
Pennzoil YB

I guess he's sort of trying each of these to see if one does better than the other during this whole process.
 
I say drain the oil out, block off all of the PCV lines and fill the thing completely to the top with kerosene and let it sit overnight. Drain it out and refill with oil and see what happens.

I have always wondered what this would accomplish...a destroyed engine or loosening of sludge? Would the loosened sludge destroy the engine?
 
I doubt much would happen, I would think you'd need that Kero to get hot and circulate for it to do anything. Then filling it to the top would be a problem. Just pouring it in to the top so to speak and letting it sit would do very little cleaning IMO. I wouldn't want the engine to run long with straight Kero in it, but if I didn't care about what happened to the engine I would certainly experiment with it.
 
Hey dishdude, I grew up in Pittsburgh! Off Bower Hill Rd in Mt. Lebanon. Anyway, I don't think that I'll be using any solvents unless I'm going to be taking this engine apart or at least the pan off. Too much chance to loosen large chunks that will surely block the pickup screen. I've seen it happen before to others using kerosene-type flush products. Our point is to avoid destroying the engine. I guess that my theory is that it took 133k miles to get here, it may take that long (hopefully not) to reverse the process gently as much as possible.
 
Wow, I think all you can do is to do it slowly. Shorter clean and regular rinse cycle with short filter change.

The 3.0L Toyota engine is the sludge prone engine.

May need to go to toyotanation forum and get the service manual for it to check where the PCV valve is located.

At any rate, if it works, it will be good testimony.

Keep us updated!!!
 
Most certainly find where the PCV valve is and get it working properly. I am puzzled to the burning 1 quart every 200 miles with no leaks and no massive cloud of smoke while driving the car. Has your brother-in-law checked the coolant level to make sure that is not causing the sludge situation? I would suggest, if possible, to remove the valve covers and oil pan to safely remove as much buildup by hand and then resume the ARX treatments. Good luck, facing a potentially downed engine while making payments (if that's his situation) is very stressful.
 
If the engine truly has that much sludge in it, you do not want to go breaking that stuff up quickly. You are just asking for a plugged up oil pump screen.
 
I agree w/ drivewaytech. Figure out the PCV system. It HAS to have one. As for the cleaning, ditto. If he has the time, pull the pan and valve cover and get as much crud out by hand as is possible to do safely. Then resume arx-ing. Sure arx could probably take it all out eventually, but if you're THAT worried that it faces imminent death, go ahead and give it a helping hand. Try a spray bottle and fill with Chemtool and try to wipe off w/ a rag. There was a guy on here about a year or so ago that did the kero thing on a yota and he had to drop the pan several times to clean it out.
 
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