Seafoam to flush crankcase after coolant contamination

[svgPhoenix]

No, I know exactly what I'm asking. I described the issue I was trying to solve because I didn't think anyone would reply if I just asked "does seafoam dissolve coolant" without any further context. The only reason this discussion became contentious is that a lot of people started telling me not to use any additives without any scientific reason.

The only answers I'm interested in are from the people on here who actually know how the chemistry of seafoam and coolant interact. I am more than capable of making my own decision on whether I will use it or any other additive based on that information.

 

[kschachn]

Yeah.

Change the oil and the filter, run it a little bit and change it out again. Forget the Seafoam it's only going to contaminate it further.

 

[svgPhoenix]

@kschachn thank you for at least giving me a real scientific answer to my question before ensuring I'll never come back to this forum by insulting my intelligence.

 

[vwmaniaman]

I had an intake manifold gasket cause antifreeze to get in the oil. When I pulled the valve covers to do the repair it looked like white wax on everything. I used Berrymans carb cleaner to loosen the muck and then flushed with kerosene to flush it down. I left the drain pan down there and the plug out to let it flow out. It looked impossible but it came clean. B12 carb cleaner. and kerosene

 

[RDMgr]

Looking at the SDS provided, petroleum distillates are likely a mineral oil. Hydrocarbon solvent can be “naphtha” which describes several types of solvents. These components will work to dissolve hydrocarbon deposits. Some will dissolve sludge. Some types of naphtha may also dissolve varnish. Some types of naphtha may remove paint so be careful of spillage.

Isopropyl alcohol will be soluble with any water-based materials including the ethylene glycol and the additives of the coolant. This may be irrelevant. If you are going to add the treatment to the crankcase oil to remove the contaminant there may be an issue regarding evaporation and boiling. IPA evaporates quickly especially as it is heated. Its boiling point is about 84C (183F) which means it may quickly evaporate from the crankcase diminishing or eliminating the water/coolant pick up characteristic. It’s possible that it may cause boiling in the crankcase until it’s evaporated.

I would just go with a couple of short interval oil and filter changes and let the adpack pick up the coolant.

 

[demarpaint]

I had an intake manifold gasket cause antifreeze to get in the oil. When I pulled the valve covers to do the repair it looked like white wax on everything. I used Berrymans carb cleaner to loosen the muck and then flushed with kerosene to flush it down. I left the drain pan down there and the plug out to let it flow out. It looked impossible but it came clean. B12 carb cleaner. and kerosene

Yes, and it takes more than a short OCI imo to get that junk out. But as usual opinions on how to go about the job will vary.

 

[nthach]

here’s the old Detroit Diesel procedure for reference.

 

[WeyounDS9]

No, I know exactly what I'm asking. I described the issue I was trying to solve because I didn't think anyone would reply if I just asked "does seafoam dissolve coolant" without any further context. The only reason this discussion became contentious is that a lot of people started telling me not to use any additives without any scientific reason.

The only answers I'm interested in are from the people on here who actually know how the chemistry of seafoam and coolant interact. I am more than capable of making my own decision on whether I will use it or any other additive based on that information.

I am a Chemist. I know the Chemistry. In this thread it has been stated it is 5% alcohol.
The useful fraction of Seafoam will be your alcohol. it can dissolve the water fraction away which is your most problematic component of coolant. however its only a little bit.
Other more alcohol containing solutions exist but the more alcohol in crankcase the less that mix will lubricate, which is of course also not good.

Its all a tradeoff.

 

[Accent Abuser]

B12 should only be as a flush added like 15-30minutes before an oil change, idle the car and then drain it, b12 is known for being quite harsh on seals and it's a much stronger cleaner than seafoam and can quickly lift large chunks of sludge and crap.

Yeah I probably should have mentioned that. Definitely do not drive with B12 in the crankcase. Berrymans tech support says to add it to an ice cold engine and idle it until it reaches operating temperature (cold because it will just evaporate otherwise). Stuff is basically brakekleen for your engine and will remove anything, but it's harsh.

 

[kschachn]

Ethlene glycol is as bad or possibly worse than water in engine oil. There is no substance you’re going to add to contaminated oil to “remove” both the water and the glycol. The only way you’re going to get it out of there and have uncontaminated oil is to change the oil and essentially dilute it out until it is negligible.

 

[kschachn]

Yeah I probably should have mentioned that. Definitely do not drive with B12 in the crankcase. Berrymans tech support says to add it to an ice cold engine and idle it until it reaches operating temperature (cold because it will just evaporate otherwise). Stuff is basically brakekleen for your engine and will remove anything, but it's harsh.

Besides the fact that it will do nothing for the OP’s problem except add yet another contaminate to an already contaminated sump.

 

[gathermewool]

No, I know exactly what I'm asking. I described the issue I was trying to solve because I didn't think anyone would reply if I just asked "does seafoam dissolve coolant" without any further context. The only reason this discussion became contentious is that a lot of people started telling me not to use any additives without any scientific reason.

The only answers I'm interested in are from the people on here who actually know how the chemistry of seafoam and coolant interact. I am more than capable of making my own decision on whether I will use it or any other additive based on that information.

You really don’t get how advice works? The consensus is that Seafoam is not going to do exactly what you think it will do. Other more viable options were offered. Use THAT information to make up your own mind whether you want to follow the advice given or to toss some Seafoam in your crank…You seem capable of at least that

 

[nthach]

Ethlene glycol is as bad or possibly worse than water in engine oil. There is no substance you’re going to add to contaminated oil to “remove” both the water and the glycol. The only way you’re going to get it out of there and have uncontaminated oil is to change the oil and essentially dilute it out until it is negligible.

From what I read, back when engines had Babbitt alloy journal bearings using lead/tin/copper on brass shells, glycol could cause the inlays to peel off but the coolant additives can inflict harm too.

Remember Cash for Clunkers? The solution to render a car disabled for it was sodium silicate and water. Water glass. The same silicate(though not in an silicone-linked form) found in old school green coolant. Subject it to heat and the water is driven off to form a solid. That will destroy journal bearings or polished surfaces quickly.

Now with today’s xOAT coolants, some silicated, some phosphated, the acid component is harmful to an engine’s oil lubricated parts.