seafoam now car is high idle

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MetalSlug

MetalSlug

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I success use seafoam almost every old car I had in the past, accept new car, 1/3 in gas , 1/3 in oil 1/3 in intake using hose at brake boost.

i did seafoam on my 1995 mustang gt 5.0 , everything went well, after 20 min, i turn on the car, it idle fine, i rev it up to 1.5k rpm to 2k rpm, and some how it stuck at 2k rpm ! and heard loud sound like leaf blower on right side of engine, sound like massive air leak. I drove for 5 min, rpm drop down as soon i put in gear and if i idle, it spike back at 2k rpm.

I hook everything back on right, I only take out 1 hose and and put back in same spot, i have feeling that either

1: Seafoam is break down an old gasket and created a air leak
2: seafoam break down old dirty stuff and got stuck at the Idle air control .

im thinking spay some carb cleaner around TB, see if idle is drop, and gonna check the butterfly to see it stuck open and mabe need adjust the screw. I havent have time to do that yet, i want to see if any one have same experiment as me. thank you and have a nice day.
 
I think the rubber hose developed a crack from flexing when you did the seafoam. Sounds like an unmetered air leak to me.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I think the rubber hose developed a crack from flexing when you did the seafoam. Sounds like an unmetered air leak to me.


I will double check that after work today, thanks
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hope its not a HG. I never rec seafoam ingestion on a modern smog engine.


This is a 302, not a Subaru. Unless he's slapped an S-trim on it, the head gaskets are fine.

OP:

1. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE SCREW.
2. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE SCREW.
3. Check for vacuum leaks
4. If it isn't a vacuum leak (but the sound you heard makes it more than likely it IS a vacuum leak) then it is either a sticking IAC or a baffed TPS.
5. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE SCREW.

grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hope its not a HG. I never rec seafoam ingestion on a modern smog engine.


This is a 302, not a Subaru. Unless he's slapped an S-trim on it, the head gaskets are fine.

OP:

1. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE SCREW.
2. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE SCREW.
3. Check for vacuum leaks
4. If it isn't a vacuum leak (but the sound you heard makes it more than likely it IS a vacuum leak) then it is either a sticking IAC or a baffed TPS.
5. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE SCREW.

grin.gif



yes yes i know about the screw, i was hopping IAC, mabe need clean, or plug up because the seafoam clean out black stuff and got stuck at IAC . My main thing im worried, is upper intake gasket. this is first time got bad experiment with seafoam, been use it for 7 years.

btw about vacuum leak, all i did is take out 1 hose, and put back same hose, and look like it still in very good condition, and no cracking, i was hopping IAC got plug up.
 
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Well, did Seafoam come in contact with the IAC? From the sounds of your application method, I'm doubting it
21.gif


You can always try tapping it.

However, my car randomly idled at 2K (my old '87 GT) and it ended up being the TPS was baffed.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Well, did Seafoam come in contact with the IAC? From the sounds of your application method, I'm doubting it
21.gif


You can always try tapping it.

However, my car randomly idled at 2K (my old '87 GT) and it ended up being the TPS was baffed.


overkill I will take picture and exactly what hose im using tonight when i get off work, what you mean by your TPS baffed, u have to get new one ?
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Well, did Seafoam come in contact with the IAC? From the sounds of your application method, I'm doubting it
21.gif


You can always try tapping it.

However, my car randomly idled at 2K (my old '87 GT) and it ended up being the TPS was baffed.


overkill I will take picture and exactly what hose im using tonight when i get off work, what you mean by your TPS baffed, u have to get new one ?


Yes.
 
I use foam top-end cleaners and haven't have this issue, since it can be sprayed directly into the TB without stalling the engine(at least as easily lol).

Never sea foam to stall the engine or to soak the top-end for me...
 
Update: Got off work early today, and desice to pop the hood, and take off the TB and clean the IAC with carb cleaner, pop it back in, turn on the car, cold idle was 1.5k rmp, then a min it jump to 2k rpm. it dark so i stop,

I was thinking the problem is the TPS, but im not sure about it yet before I put 50 dollar on it.
 
A lot of times spraying a lot of solvent around items that are near electronics, even if that TPS was sealed, can dissolve seals and allow the solvent into the electronics destroying them. My guess is that the solvent damaged electronics.

Folks are waaaay too gung ho with "cleaning things" that don't need to be cleaned, especially if they are near electronics and older.
 
I wish i know wat exactly the problem is, or what sensor it need replace, moneys is not a problem, it just try find this ghost broken part is the hardest part.
 
@Metal:

Your car has OBD I, you need to head to a good indy shop with the correct scan tool to at least get an idea of what is going on.

You have no check engine light on...does the lamp actually function, do you know?

My guess is that using the scan tool will at least point you in the right general direction, but I do think that the solvent damaged an electronic part.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
I wish i know wat exactly the problem is, or what sensor it need replace, moneys is not a problem, it just try find this ghost broken part is the hardest part.


yes, it have check engine light, i cant find any one i know have OBD 1 code scanner.




^Is this w/ a Manual Transmission? If so, go down the interstate or highway, come into Neutral while traveling at high speed and see/observe what the RPMs do, report back. Do you notice any power loss since Sea Foam or hesitation early in throttle but delayed then quicker as you get near WOT? Of course, a CEL being on may prevent the engine from operating best by staying in open loop.

You could always skip pulling the code if you want to just test the wires to the TPS and see what the wire that 'varies' in voltage, is doing with KOEO(not sure if you can test this one while it's running or if that would make a difference). He explains the 3 wires.

Check all 3 to identify the right one if you don't have a Factory Service Manual with a wiring diagram.. You need a DVOM tool and you can at least get some wiring testing done while trying to find a way to pull the code.

If you don't have a DVOM, or can't loan a tester from auto store, etc...just buy a replacement TPS(be sure to remember the ORIENTATION of how it is mounted when you remove it from the TB.

Here is a Youtube video showing what a DVOM looks like and the relative wires, he talks about 'orientation' of the TPS, by monitoring voltage with 'key on, engine off' to the variable wire. Usually it's 5 volt wire, you can try to find out what yours is reading. I don't know what the 'FSM' recommends for voltage stock from factory.

I don't know the extent of his 'TPS adjustment' talk, but I'm recommending viewing the video only to observe the device and importance of TPS orientation in general that you car currently is at, in case you haven't replaced one of these before and have to replace your old TPS for a new one.
 
the car is automatic, yesterday when i clean the IAC with carb cleaner, I saw some smoke back of the intake, but it too dark to see where its from, this weekent I will really look closer and check every hose i can. and take some picture too, it been raining none stop for last 4 day
frown.gif
 
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@MetalSlug:

I did a little searching and supposedly you can pull the codes from your car...try turning the key to accessories turning off and then turning it to accessories again, it may give you a series of flashes from the CEL. Report back.

The point is the code will tell you where to start looking as opposed to just randomly trying stuff.
 
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