School me in u-joints for my old gm trucks

[redhat]

I need to do at least one u-joint on my Tahoe, and with the service history of them being unbeknownst to me... I am electing to do all 4.

Looking up parts on the RockAuto, I see the Moog as a favorite and it has a zerk on the one bearing that takes what I am assuming is a needle tip? I am assuming I can get a tip to put on my dewalt power greaser and go to town on these?

Or is the regular style zerk on the cross preferable? Any of you have any reservations or opinions on "USE This type of U-Joint on a GMT800" thoughts? I think I do want greasable vs non-serviceable.

Thanks.

 

[drtyler]

I would go with Dana/Spicer (regular/SPR or SPL, NOT the ones listed in Economy section).

For the past few years, I generally avoid anything MOOG. Buy and use at your own risk.

 

[D60]

Solid Spicer or Neapco.

Greaseable is a scam that sounds good to the general public, unless you have a very specific application like always backing down a boat ramp.

Seriously, OEMs use solid joints for a reason (Toyota seems to be an exception) and they last 200k or more in many instances -- or at least here in CO.

Watch this:


I only install solid joints in my own vehicles and customers' vehicles.

If you opt to go greaseable you need to be HARD CORE about greasing regularly. Because the seals are deliberately inferior to allow grease to be purged they go dry in a surprisingly short time.

YMMV good luck!

 

[Trav]

SKF Brute Force non greasable would be the ones I would buy for my own vehicle.

 

[D60]

SKF Brute Force non greasable would be the ones I would buy for my own vehicle.

And surprisingly NAPA often stocks the BF (Brute Force) joints.

You have to ASK for them because average Joe Suburbia walking up to counter thinks greaseable is a genius idea.

IME it can be virtually impossible to find a solid joint at AZ or O'Reilly, so I try to stock what I'm most likely to need (which rarely works out)

 

[D60]

Also Spicer claims they put just the right amount of grease in each cup of their non-greaseables and you're not supposed to add more. Theoretically additional grease can "hydraulic" and blow out the seals.

That said, I used to add grease for years before I learned this and never had a problem....except for stupid 5-811X's that will crack their plastic seals even if you add no grease.

 

[drtyler]

If you opt to go greaseable you need to be HARD CORE about greasing regularly. Because the seals are deliberately inferior to allow grease to be purged they go dry in a surprisingly short time.

I agree with this 100%. The Dana/Spicer SPL are non-greaseable.

I spoke on the phone a few years ago at Dana/Spicer, and their recommendation was to use the better quality greaseable ujoints if available AND maintain them as prescribed. If maintaining regularly was not likely, get the better quality non-greaseable.

 

[Trav]

I dont use greasable anything anymore and haven't for decades but some people insist on greasable ball joints and U joints because if you grease them they will never wear out. My answer to them is whey is when it was the norm to do a GOF every 3K were we still doing ball joints, tie rod ends and u joints like crazy. Its the seals or boots, if grease can come out water can go in, its that simple.

 

[TomYoung]

I don't think you would have a problem with any of the heavy-duty brands, including Moog. If you have isolated a problem, might be more inclined to replace each joint as it fails. In my experience, they don't all fail at once, and quite often there are failures after replacement, whether due to manufacturing defect, or installation error with a BFH. In a vehicle with more than 300k, you could argue that any mechanical part is due for replacement. All of this, of course, varies with how the car has been maintained and its condition. My $0.02. Note that I am not basing my thoughts on the price of the parts. Maybe labor is a consideration, but mostly strategy in keeping an older vehicle in service.

 

[D60]

I don't think you would have a problem with any of the heavy-duty brands, including Moog. If you have isolated a problem, might be more inclined to replace each joint as it fails. In my experience, they don't all fail at once, and quite often there are failures after replacement, whether due to manufacturing defect, or installation error with a BFH. In a vehicle with more than 300k, you could argue that any mechanical part is due for replacement. All of this, of course, varies with how the car has been maintained and its condition. My $0.02. Note that I am not basing my thoughts on the price of the parts. Maybe labor is a consideration, but mostly strategy in keeping an older vehicle in service.

I was also going to reco this! If the existing joints feel smooth I'd consider leaving well-enough alone. Sometimes you just introduce problems as stated above

 

[Escape08]

I have the greaseable Dana Spencer U-Joint type on my pickup truck but the problem is the grease fitting is hidden at all angles even if I used the needle grease adapter. Well thousands & thousands of miles had passed that u-joint is still intact with the original grease on it (Mystik JT6). Amazing !!!

 

[Lubener]

I was also going to reco this! If the existing joints feel smooth I'd consider leaving well-enough alone. Sometimes you just introduce problems as stated above

I have found when joints are going bad, you will find powdered rust on the spiders from the needles.. If there isn't any, I wouldn't even drop the drive shaft to check. They are fine.
My favorite is Neapco when I replace them.

 

[cb_13]

Dana/Spicer are my go to’s for u joints. Sometimes you’ve got to do a little searching to get them.

I also don’t use greaseable replacements anymore. The OE are sealed and have always lasted longer than their aftermarket greaseable replacements in IME.

 

[Delta]

Solid Spicer or Neapco.

Greaseable is a scam that sounds good to the general public, unless you have a very specific application like always backing down a boat ramp.

Seriously, OEMs use solid joints for a reason (Toyota seems to be an exception) and they last 200k or more in many instances -- or at least here in CO.

Watch this:


I only install solid joints in my own vehicles and customers' vehicles.

If you opt to go greaseable you need to be HARD CORE about greasing regularly. Because the seals are deliberately inferior to allow grease to be purged they go dry in a surprisingly short time.

YMMV good luck!

Toyota has been sealed for many years now.

 

[Chris142]

Spicer was the go to for joints. Lately they have been coming out of China so I can't comment on their quality. Neapco is good as is precision last I heard. I would not consider any other brands .

 

[DemoFly]

I run whatever NAPA puts in their boxes, and I've never had a single issue.

 

[D60]

Toyota has been sealed for many years now.

Yeah I was thinking of like first gen Tacos and 2nd Gen 4R's with the weird "blocky" u-joints and zerks with a square base. I don't presently work on anything after ~'04 at the moment

 

[Fsharp]

I put those Moog super strength u joints in the Suburban I use to have and liked them a lot. I only had the truck for another 20,000 miles or so after putting them, but they were great during that time. The zerk requiring a needle tip is still less of a hassle than a u joint with a zerk in the cross. The Moogs were the only ones I could find with the zerk in one of the caps. My regret with them is that only after they were in did I realize I hadn’t lined up the zerks!

 

[zrxkawboy]

Seriously, OEMs use solid joints for a reason (Toyota seems to be an exception) and they last 200k or more in many instances -- or at least here in CO.

Yes, they sure do last a long time. The original rear u-joint went out in my daughter's Trailblazer at 175k miles. I pulled the driveshaft and was surprised to find the front one still felt fine. Of course, I replaced them both at that mileage.

 

[FishFry]

If you really want to go down the u-joint rabbit hole, here is a 7 part series that goes really deep into it.