Save the Manuals!!!

[nleksan]

2001 BMW 325i 5MT Sport Euro Spec/Delivery... 191,767 miles and still on original clutch and flywheel. It's my daily.

My fully built and custom SC'd 328Ci 6MT (the car has fewer stock parts than aftermarket parts at this point I'd wager), which sees almost exactly 1/3rd of its miles at the track (HPDE/open/competition) has done over 40k (13k being on track) with the same Ultra-Light dual-mass clutch/flywheel kit (21.3lb total, for the two combined) with a redline @ 8000rpm, 16.5psi+ boost from a Lysholm blower with the motor built to almost 11:1 CR, putting down 442rwhp/408rwtq on 93 pump (peak power at redline, 95 percent of peak torque from 1500-7200rpm)... Zero issues.

I have not had one single problem with a manual transmission in all of the BMW's I've owned, nor Porsche (911 GT3 RS).


The only reason why the 911 Turbo w AT is faster from a dig than the MT is due to the ability to force the car into boost at launch by simultaneously revving (loading) the motor while standing on the brakes. It is not because of the AT being a better technology.

 

[SLCraig]

Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: SLCraig

It doesn't help that my Civic SI has one of the best transmissions I have ever driven let alone owned. It makes me love my car if nothing else. It is that good.


Never drove an SI, but is it the same 5spd as my wife's 2001 Civic LX? I never warmed up to that setup. The trans was fine, but I hated the engine--gutless off idle.


NO!!

I traded in my 2011 Civic LX-S because the car was no fun. The clutch and trans feel between the 1.8L Civic and the 2.0L SI is night and day. Car and Driver did a test on a 2010 SI and they said it's the best manual trans on a car for $20K. I am inclined to agree, I love it.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Mykl
Originally Posted By: supton
My Camry is stickshift, so it's always in sport mode.

I had a rental Camry, same year, but an automatic, and it would not upshift on command. Neither will my Tundra. It just stops the transmission from being in a gear above the one indicated.


Well yeah, you pull the "-" as many times as needed so that the number indicates the gear that you're in. From there if you want to upshift you hit "+" again. If the upshift won't drop the revs to below idle it'll upshift for you. It's just a more elegant way of doing what you've been able to do with automatics that allow you to turn off the overdrive or force it into "1" or "2."

Note that I never claimed it was perfect. But it grants a surprisingly amount of control for such a pedestrian car (besides, it's such a snoozer I seriously doubt a manual would help). It's not as good as one that you'd find in a real sports car, but it'll hold a gear at high revs through a corner if you want it to.


Oh, I like the mode on my Tundra; I use it extremely frequently, as I disagree with its torque convertor "flex lockup" programming (it's a dumb idea). However, I *know* that engine has plenty of umph from 1,200 to 1,500rpm--but any reasonable amount of throttle triggers a torque convertor unlock command (which I counter with a downshift to get it to lockup again). Thing is: I'd rather lose speed! Hill won't last that long, I want the mpg instead. Stay in gear, darn you!

I've learned what hills give me grief, and pretty much downshift prior, so that rpm is over 1,500 or so, that way it doesn't have to shift under load. Kinda annoying though, since again it has the umph at the rpm. At least I think so--maybe a decade of driving a stickshift turbo diesel has warped my mind?

Quick throttle increases likewise trigger unlock, but at least that is easily avoided.

 

[babyivan]

Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: supton
No, maybe this summer I will change the fluid in it.


Recommendation...
Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4

I second that!

I put that exact fluid in my previous '99 V6 Solara SE 5 speed.

The gear box was slightly crunchy in colder weather and the Redline juice COMPLETELY smoothed it out!

As others will tell you, avoid the traditional gear oils they sell at the local part store, they are all GL-5 and BAD for the soft metals. It's NOT backwards compatible as they would have you think!

Redline MT90 is not cheap at $15 or so a quart, but you get what you pay for.

 

[Jarlaxle]

Originally Posted By: sw99
Love my F250 with the ZF6 Manual. Getting ready to install a short shift kit and a fresh fluid change.

I was recently entertaining the thought of buying a 2014 gasser truck. The only manual option was the Ram 2500/3500 with the Cummings. Ford and Government Motors does not even offer the manual as an option.


You need to DESTROKE that Super Duty.

 

[Indydriver]

I'm doing my part. I'm in the process of trading in my 275 HP Mazdaspeed3 for a 426 HP 2SS/RS Camaro Convertible. Got my tuner and mods all lined up.

 

[KitaCam]

Check this out...mazda 3 review

http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052702303945704579391243579396718?mg=reno64-wsj&url=http%3A%2F%2Fonline.wsj.com%2Farticle%2FSB10001424052702303945704579391243579396718.html

 

[KitaCam]

Originally Posted By: babyivan
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: supton
No, maybe this summer I will change the fluid in it.


Recommendation...
Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4

I second that!

I put that exact fluid in my previous '99 V6 Solara SE 5 speed.

The gear box was slightly crunchy in colder weather and the Redline juice COMPLETELY smoothed it out!

As others will tell you, avoid the traditional gear oils they sell at the local part store, they are all GL-5 and BAD for the soft metals. It's NOT backwards compatible as they would have you think!

Redline MT90 is not cheap at $15 or so a quart, but you get what you pay for.


Even 1 quart mixed in with OEM helps....