salt belt - removing suspension bolts
- Thread starter dellyz
- Start date
That doesn’t look too bad. Few suggestions as a fellow rust belter:
1. Soak all the bolts with PB Blaster for a few days prior to actually working on the vehicle.
2. Use the correct size sockets and make sure you’re getting them on straight to minimize odds of rounding the fasteners.
3. Work the bolts out slowly. You might have to play the game of loosen, then tighten, loosen again.
4. Use a torch if needed.
5. Be ready to hack the bolts off if penetrating oil and torch don’t cut it. Gonna need to buy replacement bolts probably at the dealer.
6. Use anti seize and torque the fasteners back at 80-85% of the FSM spec.
Good luck! Others here might have more suggestions
1. Soak all the bolts with PB Blaster for a few days prior to actually working on the vehicle.
2. Use the correct size sockets and make sure you’re getting them on straight to minimize odds of rounding the fasteners.
3. Work the bolts out slowly. You might have to play the game of loosen, then tighten, loosen again.
4. Use a torch if needed.
5. Be ready to hack the bolts off if penetrating oil and torch don’t cut it. Gonna need to buy replacement bolts probably at the dealer.
6. Use anti seize and torque the fasteners back at 80-85% of the FSM spec.
Good luck! Others here might have more suggestions
Soak.
Heat.
Impact.
I prefer Kroil, but other products have their adherents. Wire brush the corrosion about the bolt heads before applying the penetrant, to help it soak in. Lots of heat on the thread end - in case there is thread locking compound - and to expand the threads a bit.
All else fails - sawzall - cut the bolts so that you can get the arm out. Bolts won’t be cheap, particularly that torx-head bolt.
For metric bolts of all kinds, I use these guys: https://belmetric.com/ and I have found that they have 8.8, 10.9 bolts in a variety of sizes, with long shoulders and flange heads, which makes them exactly the same as some factory suspension bolts.
Heat.
Impact.
I prefer Kroil, but other products have their adherents. Wire brush the corrosion about the bolt heads before applying the penetrant, to help it soak in. Lots of heat on the thread end - in case there is thread locking compound - and to expand the threads a bit.
All else fails - sawzall - cut the bolts so that you can get the arm out. Bolts won’t be cheap, particularly that torx-head bolt.
For metric bolts of all kinds, I use these guys: https://belmetric.com/ and I have found that they have 8.8, 10.9 bolts in a variety of sizes, with long shoulders and flange heads, which makes them exactly the same as some factory suspension bolts.
Giving the bolt heads all a good swat with a 2-3lb hammer. Also every time you have a tire off, shoot some anti rust spray or even just a few drops of motor oil on all the nuts seems to help keep the rust from getting extreme. Knock on wood, but I find I never have much trouble with suspension bolts with some pre-oiling and a hammer or a cordless impact. Smaller hardware usually breaks more often for me.
Welcome to BITOG 
Spray some kind of oil on it, such as CRC Knock'er Loose, then wait, then it should come off.
You might also want to lubricate the threads when you reinstall. You can use anti-seize or even just regular motor oil.
To keep the car from rusting worse, get rustproofing done, such as Krown. Do that every year, and you will have no more problems.
Spray some kind of oil on it, such as CRC Knock'er Loose, then wait, then it should come off.
You might also want to lubricate the threads when you reinstall. You can use anti-seize or even just regular motor oil.
To keep the car from rusting worse, get rustproofing done, such as Krown. Do that every year, and you will have no more problems.
There is a very good chance it will be a sawzall job, I have run into this numerous times, you will get the nut off okay but the bolt is totally seized in the bushing sleeve, heat and impact have little or no effect on them. I hope yours come loose but be prepared for a fun job, use a longer 10tpi carbide tipped blade.
I have Makita 18V reciprocating saw in the shop for just this reason. Broke a subframe bolt last year. Combination drill and sawzall job, with a big Time-sert as a repair.
Induction heater, such as the Venom HP.
A report on induction heaters with rusty bolts from the field
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/new-tool-thread.328515/post-6870298
- Joined
- May 31, 2024
- Messages
- 509
Sometimes tightening them first, before loosening, helps break them free. But new bolts, and a sawzall is probably where you're headed.
JHZR2
Staff member
Sometimes you need to snap a bolt. But all the recommendations are best practice. Heat, wet, hit, etc.
This is what they are like when jammed up with rot. I just dug this one out of my scrap pile.
600-650 dollars?!
Seems like that's something only for the pros.
OP probably can only afford a torch and some propane.
If you’re not a professional - that is a steep price.
If you are - it’s both faster and safer than acetylene and much faster than propane or MAPP.
If you happen to have a professional quality set of tools, and live in the salt belt, like me, this is very attractive, regardless of price.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2022
- Messages
- 222
I do have a Venom HP induction heater, but my son got a deal on it from Matco and we split the price. They work quite well. I also use a MAPP torch with good results. I prefer the induction heater for areas that are tight and have a lot of flammable materials near by.
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