s2000 with 13:1 compr

[tudorart]

Originally Posted By: rednikos
i m between redline and 300v.
what to you mean with Red Line 10W-30 is overkill????
what do you think guys?
10w-30 or 10w-40?


If you do go with Red line, 10W-30 is a safer shot than the 5W. Differences are very small though...but since you're in Greece where starting viscosity is not an issue, why not. This is also the most shear stable of all options here since it's the only ester with a narrow span between viscosities.
I did mention it would be overkill just before letting us know about your stroker kit. your piston speeds exceed any car's on the market and equal some older formula 1 engines ... that is in stock form. I think the shear rate between piston and cylinder wall would alone motivate a 10W. This is unknown territory so better play it safe. If you drive this hard and race it often you'd probably get more miles from Red Line's racing homologue 30Wt which is also polymer free but has more anti-wear and friction modifiers but less detergents. You just have to figure out if that's the case.
I'm also thinking a thick 10W-40 ester based will be pretty hard to scrape off the walls at those speeds but that's just my instinct.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: tudorart
Originally Posted By: rednikos
i m between redline and 300v.
what to you mean with Red Line 10W-30 is overkill????
what do you think guys?
10w-30 or 10w-40?


If you do go with Red line, 10W-30 is a safer shot than the 5W. Differences are very small though...but since you're in Greece where starting viscosity is not an issue, why not. This is also the most shear stable of all options here since it's the only ester with a narrow span between viscosities.
I did mention it would be overkill just before letting us know about your stroker kit. your piston speeds exceed any car's on the market and equal some older formula 1 engines ... that is in stock form. I think the shear rate between piston and cylinder wall would alone motivate a 10W. This is unknown territory so better play it safe. If you drive this hard and race it often you'd probably get more miles from Red Line's racing homologue 30Wt which is also polymer free but has more anti-wear and friction modifiers but less detergents. You just have to figure out if that's the case.
I'm also thinking a thick 10W-40 ester based will be pretty hard to scrape off the walls at those speeds but that's just my instinct.


Redline's 5w30 has no VII's either....... And isn't known to shear...... at all. Curious as to why you think it is inferior to their 10w30?

 

[rednikos]

what is vii's ?? i m a little confused
we are between 5w-30 and 10w-30??
so the redline is te top, right?

 

[OVERKILL]

VII's are Viscosity Index Improvers. That's what tudorart was referring to when he referenced polymers.

Redline makes very good lubes. So do many other oil companies. You have an engine that didn't call for Unicorn Pee when it was new, so while it DOES have high piston speed and power density, it really isn't that far removed from what Honda originally created and so I don't think you need some "nectar of the Gods" lubricant to keep it together.

M1 0w40 is another choice to consider FWIW.

 

[INDYMAC]

Originally Posted By: rednikos
what is vii's ?? i m a little confused
we are between 5w-30 and 10w-30??
so the redline is te top, right?


I suppose either would work. I like 10W-30 in my 2004 S2000. It has the stock F22C1 engine though.

Are you able to find 100% octane fuel in Greece? I suspect anything less could create problems with your stroker kit build.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: rednikos
what is vii's ?? i m a little confused
we are between 5w-30 and 10w-30??
so the redline is te top, right?

As OVERKILL mentioned, neither Red Line 5W-30 or 10W-30 contain any polymer thickeners and both has the same 3.8cP HTHSV but their 5W-30 has a higher 162 VI, not great but a lot better than the 143 of RL 10W-30. Conclusion is that RL 5W-30 ha rendered their 10w-30 obsolete.

If you were going to go with Red Line I'd recommend their more advanced 0W-30. It's shear stable and it's HTHSV of 3.2cp is likely more than you'll ever need.

If Motul is a cheaper alternative I'd reccommend a 50/50 blend of 300V 0W-20 and 5W-30.

Ultimately you viscosity choice should be made based on your oil pressure readings. What are the factory OP spec's, and if you don't know what's your hot oil pressure at high rev's?

 

[rednikos]

manual say 85 lbs oil pressure in 4000rpm when its hot
some othe guys have see 120C in a real hard drive
i just want to make a good choise i m afraid rod and crankshaft bearings.because the piston speed will be too too much.
yes we have 100oct fuel

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: rednikos

some othe guys have see 120C in a real hard drive

If the manual says the minimum OP should be 85 psi that's very high, the highest I've ever heard for any engine?
Is the 120C the oil temp's or OP your refering to?

 

[dparm]

120C oil temp is not that bad for a spike. Even for sustained periods (track time) it's not that bad.

 

[tudorart]

It's actually 85psi@3000rpm@80degC and 36psi@800rpm@80degC.
Oil filter is also singular in size, media and by-pass pressure.
Amsoil's filter for it is listing by-pass at 11 to 17 and for the newer Hondas running on 20 weights the filter is listed at 8 to 11.

 

[tudorart]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: tudorart
Originally Posted By: rednikos
i m between redline and 300v.
what to you mean with Red Line 10W-30 is overkill????
what do you think guys?
10w-30 or 10w-40?


If you do go with Red line, 10W-30 is a safer shot than the 5W. Differences are very small though...but since you're in Greece where starting viscosity is not an issue, why not. This is also the most shear stable of all options here since it's the only ester with a narrow span between viscosities.
I did mention it would be overkill just before letting us know about your stroker kit. your piston speeds exceed any car's on the market and equal some older formula 1 engines ... that is in stock form. I think the shear rate between piston and cylinder wall would alone motivate a 10W. This is unknown territory so better play it safe. If you drive this hard and race it often you'd probably get more miles from Red Line's racing homologue 30Wt which is also polymer free but has more anti-wear and friction modifiers but less detergents. You just have to figure out if that's the case.
I'm also thinking a thick 10W-40 ester based will be pretty hard to scrape off the walls at those speeds but that's just my instinct.


Redline's 5w30 has no VII's either....... And isn't known to shear...... at all. Curious as to why you think it is inferior to their 10w30?


Not inferior but I think it might be closer to the base they're using in their motorcyle and race 10W-30. There might be smth more robust in it that these astm tests don't show (maybe a 90 cycle Kurt Orbahn or smth else would tell the story). Also Motul is listing 2 decimals on the HTHS of 300V which I wish Red Line did.

To Caterham: Obsolete or not it better matches manuals' recommendation (in general) and that sells it. The average guy doesn't know how close (and thick) the two are. I actually think the 5W-30 has no place being that close to the 10W's. While they can it doesn't mean they should be flexing their muscle with that much HTHS...but I guess they finally learned that with the new 0W formulas. It is my opinion that at this point they are lacking a true 5W-30 in their line-up. Most (European especially) blenders have one over (A3) and one below (A1) 3.5 HTHS.
I always used HTHS>3.5 road racing my S2k.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: tudorart
It's actually 85psi@3000rpm@80degC and 36psi@800rpm@80degC.

So those would be the test spec's on the lightish (HTHSV 3.0-3.2cP) recommended 30wt oil. Higher oil temp's will produce correspondingly lower oil pressure.
With the OP that high I presume the oil pump by-pass point will also be high, likely in the 120 psi area which is what it is on my freinds NSX.

You didn't mention want break-in oil you're currently running but take some hot OP readings with that as a reference.
If you're seeing 85-90 psi hot at elevated rev's then whatever the HTHSV is of that oil is about right.
One thing you don't want to do is run an oil so heavy that you can't use maximum rev's hot without going into by-pass.

 

[rednikos]

so the final dilema is 10w-30 or 0w-30 redline?right guys?
(please excuse my english)
few years ago i used to use 300v and my car burned so much oil
after i change them with torco sr5 and stopped.
i just know now that my car will have a high piston speed
and i want something to protect the bearings.
and the car is n/a and i want to have easy reving
thanks again for all your help

 

[A_Harman]

If I recall correctly, Honda specified 10w30 for the S2000 in North America, which in my mind means it should have an HTHS in the neighborhood of 3.5. RL 5w30 meets that in spades, and if you want to blend down to get exactly that, use a 50/50 blend of RL 0w30 and 5w30. Or just keep it simple and use RL 5w30.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
If I recall correctly, Honda specified 10w30 for the S2000 in North America, which in my mind means it should have an HTHS in the neighborhood of 3.5.

Honda specced a dino. no? I doubt the HTHS is that high.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
If I recall correctly, Honda specified 10w30 for the S2000 in North America, which in my mind means it should have an HTHS in the neighborhood of 3.5.

Honda specced a dino. no? I doubt the HTHS is that high.

Exactly, the HTHSV will be in the 3.0-3.2cP range.
Honda did not spec' a synthetic oil for the S2000 hence a more shear stable 30wt dino was recommended. Any light 0W/5W-30 syn' would be more than adequate.

rednikos, forget RL 10W-30 as no one that understand motor oil uses it any more. Yes RL 0W-30 would be a very good choice, somewhat heavier than spec', very shear resistant with a very robust anti-wear package.