s2000 with 13:1 compr

[rednikos]

hello i want to ask what is your opinion about what is the better oil for me.i have a f20 with 13:1 comp. and i rev at 9000 rpm. i thoutgh that if i use a motorcycle oil whould be better. because have much more zync phosph and moly that auto motor oils
thansk for your help

 

[SubLGT]

Is this a stock engine, or a modified engine? What oil viscosities are recommended in your owner's manual?

 

[Tros]

Use what your manufacturer recommends. Use a good synthetic oil if you are concerned about getting every last bit of performance out of the motor oil (and no, I'm not talking about making more HP )

 

[montero1]

I had one, don't waste your money on synthetic, it WILL consume oil unless you drive it like an old lady.

 

[rednikos]

its a modified engine 2400cc.. for the stock 2000 cc manual reccomend 5w-30 5w-40.

 

[tudorart]

You can use a motorcycle oil. I did in my S2000. However it is not as slippery and will possibly affect your 3 way cat long term.
I would choose a very share stable 30 weight. Because polymer is the last thing you want in a high rpm engine with a chain the manual states 5W-40 in winter and 10W-30 the rest of the times. Using all year long the 5W-40 will shear more and end up as a 5W-30 eventually anyway unless you pick a solid ester based oil. If you do use one of those you can probably go year round with a 5W-30 like red line's for ex.
For maximum performance and minimum losses use the Honda 10W-30 HTHSVis at around 3.3cP as a starting point. too much and you'll over do it. Red Line 10W-30 is overkill but you can go with Amsoil's. The latter is Ilsac specd and will have low Zn and Ph levels. Red Line on the other hand will have around 1200ppm I think. Same goes for Motul 300V 5W30 "POWER RACING" if you have the money...it's at 3.6cP...that is more than enough and you can use it year round as far as viscosity.

How did you end up with that compression? How does it feel...did you do any power measurement?

 

[oggb]

Redline 5w-30 sounds like it'd do pretty well here.

 

[tudorart]

Originally Posted By: rednikos
its a modified engine 2400cc.. for the stock 2000 cc manual reccomend 5w-30 5w-40.


i see you just posted this. Longer stroke means more torque and in your case insane piston speeds. So I'm thinking more HThSvis then.
I also see you're in Greece..so another good option if you lack the ones above is the ester based Silkolene Pro S 5W-30 or 5W-40. I am not sure of the HTHS numbers on these though.

 

[rednikos]

i m thinkibg the torco sr5 or redline motorcycle oil,300v how much km want to replace them?? do you know anything about eneos?? thank you guys

 

[tudorart]

Originally Posted By: rednikos
i m thinkibg the torco sr5 or redline motorcycle oil,300v how much km want to replace them?? do you know anything about eneos?? thank you guys

Motul 300V in all its viscosities for cars is not a true racing oil. It's very similar to Red line regular motor oils. About the same zddp, a bit more moly and slighly higher tbn. Most times is good for at least 10000km but then changing it at 8k would not hurt in this particular application since most of that tbn (11.3) is there to balance the zddp.

If you do go to a 40 grade keep it in the 10W to avoid any diesel specs and viscosity loss.
I don't think any grade of Eneos is the better choice for your car.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Redline is a great choice.

Also consider Amsoil Dominator, it even has multiple grades for you.

 

[Cujet]

Higher levels of ZDDP won't help improve oil film strength in your highly loaded con-rod bearings.

It's more important that you pick an oil with reliable film strength. Any of the higher end, synthetic oils, made by reputable companies such as Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1 and others will suffice.

I've come to really like Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck. It's a very robust, true PAO oil, with plenty of ZDDP. But more than that, real world used oil analysis' and racing teardown results have been spectacular in just about any application. In fact, it's good enough for modern 4t motocrossers.

Remember, high RPM engines put extremely high loads on the rod bearings. The inertia of the reciprocating components at extreme RPM puts more force on the bearings than combustion loads could ever hope to achieve (even if turbocharged) . Your oil's film strength must be up to the task, but more than that, it must be up to the task, for an entire oil change interval, under high heat conditions. Pick a top shelf synthetic and change it regularly.

As you probably know, certain high RPM BMW engines have con-rod bearings that are not up to the task. Mostly due to poor design. There have been failures between 30,000 miles and 100,000 miles, with normal driving and much earlier if driven hard. BMW knew this and spec'd a 10W-60 synthetic oil in an attempt at improved film strength. Didn't work. They still fail and no oil is going to fix the problem.

Also, keep in mind that detonation will destroy the oil's film strength very rapidly. Use high quality fuel, and don't allow any detonation.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: rednikos
hello i want to ask what is your opinion about what is the better oil for me.i have a f20 with 13:1 comp. and i rev at 9000 rpm. i thoutgh that if i use a motorcycle oil whould be better. because have much more zync phosph and moly that auto motor oils
thansk for your help

to BITOG!

As far as I know, motorcycle oils may have more zinc and moly than some street oils, but they can't have too much or else they will not be compatible with wet clutches. There are certainly some additive-rich auto engine oils that would probably work better.

I would imagine that Motul 300V and Red Line street oils would be good choices. They are both a bit "old school" in terms of chemistry, but they are very tough.

What are your oil temperatures like? Do you race the car, or is it only driven on the street? How low do your air/fuel ratios go?

The F20 already has very high piston speeds; with a longer stroke and stock redline, you now have a very demanding application!

 

[rednikos]

the rod bearings is one of my nightmears.so we have the 300v , mobil 1 diesel turbo truck and the red line??? what do you think is the better???
thanks again for all your help here
now i build that set up and i olny have 700km an i m with the break in oils. so this is the first oil that i will use

 

[INDYMAC]

Do they have any SAE30 HDEO's available in Greece?

Take a look at Amsoil's ACD or HDD engine oils. They should provide adequate film strength, don't shear much, and they're a 30 grade.

 

[rednikos]

i m between redline and 300v.
what to you mean with Red Line 10W-30 is overkill????
what do you think guys?
10w-30 or 10w-40?

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: tudorart
Originally Posted By: rednikos
its a modified engine 2400cc.. for the stock 2000 cc manual reccomend 5w-30 5w-40.


i see you just posted this. Longer stroke means more torque and in your case insane piston speeds. So I'm thinking more HThSvis then.
I also see you're in Greece..so another good option if you lack the ones above is the ester based Silkolene Pro S 5W-30 or 5W-40. I am not sure of the HTHS numbers on these though.


The 5w40 is 4.07.

 

[dparm]

I vote for Motul 300V but I am biased -- I used it for 2 years in my S4 with very good results.

 

[rednikos]

now we have and the silikone pro in the game!!!! tell me your opinion

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: dparm
I vote for Motul 300V but I am biased -- I used it for 2 years in my S4 with very good results.

300V was pretty impressive in my app, too. I have significant fuel dilution, but 300V 5w-40 (which should be one of the least shear-stable grades) showed essentially virgin viscosity every time I ran it.