?'s about oil for old cars-Valvoline ML or Shell Rotella?

[pastmaster]

I agree with With Russ300H, on the lighter oil use. Since the SALES are the way to go when I buy Oil, but almost all of it are on SM rated oils.

Some guys found a sale on Delo straight 30wt. for 99 cents a quart, which I have used for the same purposes as you. You can use Wmarts house brand Supertech, to keep the $ down, but HDEO Oils are what I would use. I think Wmart has Supertech HDEO Oils too.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

quote:

---

Some guys found a sale on Delo straight 30wt. for 99 cents a quart

---

Make that 99 cent purchase a "gallon jug"

 

[pastmaster]

777,

99 cents for a gallon jug???

Where can we find these deals in MI?

 

[Russ300H]

quote:

---

Originally posted by pastmaster:
777,

99 cents for a gallon jug???

Where can we find these deals in MI?

---

You have to check the "sales and promotions" section at the bottom of the listing of topics more often.

"AutoUnion" found out by accident around the beginning of the year.

You still might find some at AutoZone. IF they have any in stock, it will ring up .99/gal in their computer. I believe the item number is 235118. I just found three gallons in CT a few weeks ago to add to my present twenty nine gallon stash!

 

[twostangs]

I also own a 1967 Chrysler Newport 2dr hardtop w/63k..And they are underappreciated .I drove it sunday for the 1st time in 2 years and it is a nice car to drive. The only car i have that you can see the end of the fenders & hood on. I bought a case of castrol gtx 10w/40 but decided to go with the Rotella 15w/40 & motorcraft filter. For as much as i drive it maybe 100 miles this year when should oil be changed again???...

 

[pastmaster]

twostangs, Great to hear you got it out on the road.

It's a tough question you ask on when to change the oil again. 100 miles a year, slow cruising and not too many high speed runs where you get things up to working temps for longer time intervals. Fuel dilution of the oil and condensation and acids, are the big problems. The chokes on these era cars usually run too rich and long,cause most of the problem.

If you smell fuel in the oil at the end of the season, I'd change it, if not...I don't know, but no more than 2 years. That's my guess.

 

[TheTanSedan]

Hola, 'migo! I stopped into the DryDock the other night.

Baldwin B2-HPG filter (search site, and http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/ and http://baldwinfilters.com/products/lube.html)

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002990

FUEL POWER FP-60 (search my number under Additives forum on this)

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000960
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000580

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002383

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002889

LUBE CONTROL LC-20 (same)

And I wouldn't hesitate to run a year/6000-miles on a good oil. I used MOBIL ONE 15W-50 on my old Newport ("the tan sedan")

I'd AUTO-RX it, too, and get Terry (DYSON ANALYSIS) to look at it on the oil used after :rinse: phase complete.

Of course, wish I still had a car that was fun. At least I can write off the operating cost of the truck I'm driving.

(Am finally getting around to sending in a UOA from a 9,200 mile run of REDLINE 5w-40 on the V8-318 truck; with LC20 and FP60 use. Keep an eye out for it over the next month or so in that forum. Truck weighs 5,500# with a late iteration of the 1967 LA-engine. May have an intake problem, etc, that I'm hoping analysis will help to confirm; maybe some info you can use vis-a-vis pushrod motor, heavy vehicle, imperfect combustion).

So what did Henry use in the Flying Whale? (12-sec 4,500-lb 300)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4617814707

 

[TheTanSedan]

Don't forget the sperm whale oil additive:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004602


http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000295

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010704

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010810

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=007976

Specialty Formulations
http://specialtyformulations.com/SX-UP.htm

http://specialtyformulations.com/Classic_Form.htm

My preference these days is REDLINE 5W-40, and were I maintaining a fleet I'd look at SCHAEFFERS products. (Drum with pump)

The BALDWIN filter I buy in case lots from a wholesale filter supplier. It is a step up from the WIX, with a lower resistance to flow (think start up wear).

Good luck

 

[acewiza]

I've been a dedicated C-Bod owner and driver for over 20 years. Only had two of 'em in that time: A '70 New Yorker and a '71 New Yorker. The '70 spent 4 years with me in Central America back in the late 80s and served daily driver duty right up until the '71 replaced it about 2 and a half years ago. The "new" car is a TNT 440 hardtop, which I couldn't resist. But the wife said only one boat allowed in the family so the "old" one had to go. Motor and trans are still sitting in the garage. It ran nothing but 20w-50 Castrol GTX for 3-4k OCIs the whole time I had it and I believe after putting close to 100k miles on it, it is still healthy. At least it was last time it ran before I pulled the motor, trans, stripped and junked it.

I was interested in this thread because I am pondering the same question for the "new" '71. The car probably gets only 1-2k miles per year, but I always make sure to take it for a good run whenever it does get out - at least a 20-30 minute drive if not more. I'm using MMO in the fuel and it will complete the ARX rinse any time now. I was leaning towards the M1 TSUV 5w-40 or something similar. It has a Motorguard bypass setup and I plan to use LC20 and leave the oil in it for quite awhile(?), with annual Motoguard changes and UOAs.

That is my intended approach, FWIW.