?'s about oil for old cars-Valvoline ML or Shell Rotella?

Messages
23
Location
Western Massachusetts
Since everyone was so responsive on my previous thread on Amsoil Vs. Mobil 1, I'd like to ask another question regarding oil for my old cars. I am fortunate enough to have 5 other vehicles than my daily driver 300M, as follows: '68 Chrysler 300 440 V8, 79K miles, gets driven maybe 300 miles a year if that currently '68 Newport Custom with a 383 2 bbl. that gets driven the most, maybe 6000 miles a year. '68 New Yorker with a 440, 79K miles, just bought it and it needs an oil change. '70 Fury III convertible with a 440, engine is nearly dead, replacement 440 going in this Summer. '70 Fury Custom Suburban station wagon, was 383 2 bbl, now 383 4 bbl. Thermoquad, maybe gets driven 200 miles a year currently until I can redo the front end. I have been using Valvoline Maxlife regular Dino oil in 20W50 in all of the above cars. I noticed it really cleaned the engines (except for the convertible engine which is a sluge pile). I also use a 51515 Wix filter. I guess my question involves the oil I am using and the change interval. Am I using the right oil or am I better of saving some money and switching to Shell Rotella 15W40 that I can buy in 5 gallon drums at Costco? Other than oil selection, how often should I change the oil on all of the above given the limited driving that some of them get? Thanks in advance for responses! [Smile]
 
Messages
87
Location
St. Peters, Mo.
When I belonged to the Studebaker Club we had a member who was an oil engineer, he recommened Rotella or equivalent because of the large amount of acid neutralising additives in the HD oils. Very important for cars that sit a lot. The V8 in my car was a sludge monster, there was a quart of 30 wt. non-det in the trunk when I got it, but cleaned up remarkably well after a few thousand miles on Rotella, still not good, but it did open up all the return holes.
 

rbrogle

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
Western Massachusetts
Thanks for the compliments. I do love the big blocks but fuel economy is a problem. But what the ****, they are fun and confortable. Sounds like Rotella is the way to go. What about change interval? On the sparsely driven cars, should I change it once a year or is that too much?
 
Messages
615
Location
Alma, Michigan USA
Nice MOPARS! I drove a 1968 Chrysler Newport Coupe, 383-2bbl., for years as my "towncar". MY friends called it The Batmobile or the MOPAR- MISSLE! I have old cars too and the 15W40 Rotella T in the 5 gal. drums, is the way to go. A yearly oil change sounds prudent. I think it better to change the oil and filters, in the Fall, before you put them away for the Winter. What brand of oil filters are you using? [Burnout] [Burnout]
 

rbrogle

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
Western Massachusetts
On advice of this site, I pulled the plug on Fram early last year and have been using Wix ever since. I really think the Mopar C body is the most underappreciated car out there. I have been changing the least driven cars every other year but maybe I will step it up to yearly. Certainly is cheap insurance.
 
Messages
169
Location
Sandy Eggo
When you're talking mileage of less than a few thousand miles per year, oil changing once per year should be sufficient . . . but necessary. I'm a fan of higher viscosity oils to minimize wear between moving parts, BUT, when you're only driving 200 miles per year, it sounds like the engine isn't even getting warmed up most of the time. Under circumstances like this, I'd run a lighter (than 20W-50) multigrade simply because the engine temperature is never getting to the point where the 50 wt would be required to come into play. Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
 
Messages
8,711
Location
Nothern USA
My 77 Chevy LUV daily driver gets Pennzoil 5W-30 dino. Big deal the end of last week, 263 miles. It turned 129 K. Starts better now in cold weather than when new with 10W-30. Not quite a daily driver. Many days sets without being driven. Big fan of 5W- for short trips. I change oil every 3 months.
 
Messages
1,151
Location
Clovis, CA
I like the 20W-50 Maxlife you were using to begin with. The seal conditioners will keep the valve stem seals healthy on those old pushrod V8s during the long storage times.
 
Messages
615
Location
Alma, Michigan USA
rbrogle, This is off the oil question you asked, but do you use MMO-Marvel Mystery Oil, in the preservation of your cars? With the low miles that you drive? I have found it helps me keep my cars when stored or not driven for weeks or months, run better and I have no problems with the fuel system when driving them again. Other than getting fresh fuel and burning up the old stuff. I find that it keeps the fuel tanks from corroding at the seams or inside out. I don't use it in the crankcase as a rule, because my cars are acceptibly clean with an occaisonal use. Just something that seems to help me keep'em running nice. I think Lynn Townsend, was CEO of Chrysler Corp., when these cars were built. [Burnout] [Coffee]
 
Messages
2,421
Location
SD
Another old Mopar fan here (57 Belvedere, 67 Belvedere, 74 Duster 360). Either the Maxlife (I'd try 10W40 unless the engine is really worn) or a 15W40 should work great for you. I use Wix filters and change oil/filter once a year, in the fall. Jeff
 
Messages
6,902
Location
Louisiana
My gradmother drove a '72 Fury II. That thing was a beast. I have a horribly mangled nail on my index finger from where she accidentally slammed the 6,000 lb. door on it when I was 2 years old. And heaven forbid if she dropped the seatback on you when you were climbing into the back seat. The trunk was bigger than my first apartment. I voted for Rotella b/c of the cheap 5 gallon oil drum from Costco. Good thing we don't have those here in Louisiana or I'd look like an Arab Sheik! Plus I figured Rotella's additive pack would be more capable of handling the fuel and water that'd end up in the oil.
 

rbrogle

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
Western Massachusetts
I had a revelation at Costco today when I looked at the price. The Rotella is $1.92/QT. Looks like the price has gone up a bit! There also seems to be a consensus that I could run a thinner oil? If I do elect to do that, am I still sticking with Shell Rotella or am I using another brand? I have also used MMO on occasion in the fuel and it seems to help. I have been using it 2x a year when I can.
 
Messages
516
Location
Massachusetts
quote:
Originally posted by rbrogle: I really think the Mopar C body is the most underappreciated car out there.
Agreed! Up until last year, my "bomber" was a '64 Newport. My summer "driver" is a '63 300 convertible and I have two 300 letter cars, an "H" and a "G". You are doing the right thing by staying away from the latest SM oils. I noticed a few years back when they first came out some of my rear main seals (I deal with a LOT of old Chryslers) began leaking after changing over. Rear main seals in your cars are the older style "rope seal" and don't seem to appreciate the newer oils. Depending on the condition of your engine, you could go lighter than 15W40 or 20W50. 10W30 dino diesel is available. I found the oil pressure excessively high with 20W50 in my '63 with a 413. Look for the sales, I have not found Costco, Sams, et al anywhere near as inexpensive as buying at sale through one of the chains. For example: From a flyer in my Boston Globe this AM, free 5 qts of MaxLife and free MaxLife filter after Pep Boys rebate. [SPAZ!] Recently there was a closeout at AZ on Delo 30 wt for .99/gal which would be perfect for your vehicles. Castrol Tection Diesel was $3/gal after rebate at AA. Bottom line after the advent of SM oil, I switched over to diesel oils and have had no problems. Good Luck, I love your collection!! [Cheers!]
 
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